Weeping Landscape Trees

Salix babylonica

Weeping forms of willows (Salix spp.), flowering cherries (Prunus spp.), pines (Pinus spp.), spruces (Picea spp.) and European beeches (Fagus sylvatica) are magnificent landscape features. Weeping forms of evergreen and deciduous trees develop strong upright central leaders, and their outward branches cascade downward.  Among conifer species there are over 150 different cultivars with pendulous habits.

Here is a list of 28 weeping tree species. I have tried to choose the best cultivars available in the U.S. nursery trade. Weeping cultivars tend to be a bit more pricier than non-weeping forms. A nursery usually must put an additional 2-4 years in staking and pruning young trees.

  • Weeping Japanese Maples (Acer palmatum) –‘Ryusen’, ‘Matsukake’, ‘Omuyarama’, ‘Green Cascade’ among others

    Styrax japonicus ‘Pendula’

  • Weeping river birch (Betula nigra) ‘Summer Cascade™’
  • Weeping birch (Betula pendula) ‘Youngii’, ‘Carelica’, ‘Dalecarlica’, ‘Golden Cloud’, ‘Gracilis’, ‘Laciniata’, ‘Purpurea’
  • Weeping katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) – ‘Pendula’, ‘Tidal Wave’, ‘Amazing Grace’
  • Weeping redbud (Cercis canadensis) – ‘Traveller’, ‘Ruby Falls’, Lavender Twist® (‘Covey’), ‘Whitewater’
  • Weeping Blue Atlas cedar (Cedrus atlantica) ‘Pendula’
  • Weeping Himalayan cedar (Cedrus deodara) ‘Pendula’
  • Weeping beech (Fagus sylvatica) – ‘Pendula, ‘Purpurea Pendula’, ‘Pendula’, ‘Atropunicea’, ‘Atropurpurea’, ‘Purpurea Pendula’
  • Weeping Japanese Larch (Larix kaempferi) ‘Pendula’)
  • Weeping crabapple (Malus x ) – ‘Red Jade’, ‘Louisa’, ‘Luwick’, Molten Lava™ (‘Molazam’), ‘Royal Fountain’, several others
  • Weeping white mulberry (Morus alba) – ‘Pendula’ (female clone –sets fruits); ‘Chaparral’ (male clone – no fruits)
  • Weeping blackgum (Nyssa sylvatica) ‘Autumn Cascade’
  • Weeping Norway spruce (Picea abies) ‘Pendula’
  • Weeping Serbian spruce (Picea omorika) ‘Pendula
  • Weeping white pine (Pinus strobus) ‘Pendula
  • Weeping Flowering Apricot (Prunus mume) ‘Pendula’
  • Weeping cherries (Prunus serrulata) ‘Kiku-shidare-zakura’
  • Weeping Higan cherry (Prunus subhirtella) ‘Pendula’, ‘Pendula Alba’, and ‘Pendula Rubra’
  • Yoshino cherry (Prunus x yedoensis) ‘Snow Fountains’
  • Weeping willow (Salix spp.) – many weeping cultivars listed S. babylonica; add Contorted leaf willow (Salix matsudana ‘Tortuosa’)

    Morus alba ‘Pendula’

  • Japanese styrax (Styrax japonica) – ‘Pendula’, ‘Carillon’
  • Japanese Pagoda Tree (Styphnolobium japonicum) ‘Pendula’
  • Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) – ‘Cascade Falls’, ‘Falling Waters’ (both grafted shrub forms that may be trained into small weeping tree forms)
  • Little leaf linden (Tilia cordata) – ‘Pendula Nana’ and ‘Girard’s Pendula Nana’ (both are dwarf forms)
  • Weeping Silver Linden (Tilia petiolaris) ‘Pendula
  • Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) ‘Pendula’ – several weeping shrub forms
  • Camperdown elm (Ulmus glabra) ‘Camperdownii’
  • Weeping Alaskan cedar (Xanthocyparis nootkatensis) ‘Pendula’, ‘Jubilee’, ‘Strict Weeping’

Prevent Leaf Burn on Evergreens This Winter

Natural  needle drop on white pine in the fall

Natural winter color of PJM rhododendron

Winter foliage burn on evergreens is often most prevalent on boxwoods (Buxus), hollies (Ilex), rhododendron, and many kinds of conifers. Symptoms often develop when temperatures warm up in late winter and early spring. This type of winter damage is often misdiagnosed as an infectious disease or damage from excessively cold temperatures.

Evergreens transpire (lose water from needles or leaves) over the course of a day.  For a large pine or fir tree, that may be hundreds of gallons of water daily on a dry winter day. Conditions may worsen if the soil is dry or frozen. Roots in frozen soil are incapable of replacing moisture loss and leaves desiccate, die, and turn brown.

Major Causes: Leaf burn or water loss is frequently greater on plants located on the south and west sides of homes where the late afternoon air is warmest because of sunlight exposure and heat. De-icing salt spray from nearby streets (roads) or sidewalks may also burn evergreen foliage. High winds may dry out needles.

To Prevent Winter Burn (in order of priority):

  • Select trees and shrubs that are hardy to your region.
  • Plant broadleaved evergreens such as rhododendrons, needle conifers, and hollies (Ilex) in areas sheltered from high winds.
  • Around Thanksgiving (mid-November) holidays, irrigate plants deeply before the ground freezes if little precipitation is expected.
  • On windy sites plant a natural tree/shrub windbreak around your home, composed of fast-growing evergreen and deciduous trees.
  • Construct physical barriers from landscape tarp or slatted snow fencing to protect problem plants with burlap or landscape fabric.
  • Use of chemical anti-transpirants (available at most garden centers) should be your last resort. Follow package recommendation closely, but do not overuse these products.
  • Maintain a 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch around evergreens to retain soil moisture.

Assessing winter injury and recovery rate of foliar burned evergreens is a waiting game. Hold off until late spring before pruning away dead and damaged branches. Burnt needles will not recover.  Dead appearing branches may still possess surviving buds that will green up and fill in some bare patches. Prune off all dead branches that have not greened up.

“Got The Winter Blues”- Go For A Walk At A Garden Center

Begonias for sale

Assorted ferns

Tired of being a shopping mall walker this winter? Instead, visit a local full service garden center. This is a garden center that is open year round and generally does not include the big box stores unless you live a southern climes like Florida, Texas, Arizona, or California.

Stores are likely to have walkways, likely concrete or pea gravel,  to accommodate a walker or wheelchair.  Exercise not only your legs but other senses with an array of colors and fragrances. Lush greenery may surround you in the greenhouse, no matter what the weather is outdoors.

Out in the parking lot winter-hardy pansies, snapdragons, and dianthus maybe peaking through the snow. Truckloads of pre-forced spring flowering bulbs, such as tulips, daffodils, and fragrant hyacinths, should have arrived by mid-January. Some garden centers also offer outdoor display gardens. Walk through the gardens as warm spring temperatures are arriving and trees, shrubs and perennials are waking up.

Wander down the aisles of tropical house plants. Check out dumbcanes (Dieffenbachia), Chinese evergreens (Aglaonema), fiddleleaf figs, palms, ferns, or snake plants (Sansevieria). You’ll feel as if you are in a tropical paradise. Overhead may be several hanging vines like philodendrons, ivies, and pothos.

How about those flowering plants? Spring may be months away, but  moth orchids (Phalaenopsis), begonias, amaryllises, colorful bromeliads, African violets (Saintpaulia),  peace lilies and anthuriums.  Desert plants, including cacti, jades, aloes and other succulents, are lush this time of year and many sporting colorful blooms. Over in the herb department, inhale the sweet smells of pineapple sage, rosemary, lavender, mint, and chocolate.  Miniature orange, lime and lemon trees full of super fragrant blooms.

Spend 30 to 60 minutes walking through our greenhouses and come away refreshed, renewed, and rejuvenated at no charge. Some garden centers offer yoga and pilates classes to help get in shape for spring. Stop by the gourmet coffee bar for a hot (or cold) brew.

Unusual Forms Of Umbrella Pine Are Really Cool

Umbrella Pine at NC Arboretum in Asheville,  NC

Gold shrub form of Umbrella pine

Japanese Umbrella Pine (Sciadopitys verticillata) is a prized ornamental evergreen (USDA hardiness zones 5b -9). It is not actually a pine.  The only species within genus Sciadopitys, this conifer dates back to the dinosaurs. Umbrella pine is a mid-sized landscape tree with several fine attributes: 1. glossy green long narrow needles arranged like the spokes of a wheel; 2. peeling reddish brown bark; and 3. conical form.

In its early years after planting, umbrella pine is a notoriously slow grower. Eventually, it reaches 30 to 40 feet in height and 20 feet wide. Specimens 70 feet tall are not unusual. Shedding reddish brown bark is noticeable on mature trees. Umbrella Pine prefers full sun with light shade around mid-day. Plant the tree in humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil with slightly acidic to neutral pH. Their long rigid needles, along with a sturdy limb structure, allow the tree to withstand heavy snow and ice loads.

Several forms, including variegated, pendulous, columnar, and dwarf cultivars, along with striking foliage are available at specialty conifer nurseries.

Four Unusual Forms of Umbrella Pine:

‘Gruene Kugel’ – slow-growing compact form from Germany (30 inches x 18 inches in 10 years); rounded form when young, develop slowly into a small compact tree with glossy deep green foliage year-round.

‘Mr. Happy’ – upright coniferous tree with lush dark-green needles and /or clear yellow variegation. According to Buchholz & Buchholz Nursery in Gaston, OR, needles may be entirely green or entirely yellow or variegated half-and-half. It prefers sun/partial shade in well-drained soil; 5 feet tall x 3 feet wide in 10 years. Zone 4

‘Joe Kozey’ grows tall and very narrow at 20 feet high and 6 feet wide. Needles are held more tightly to the trunk than other types. At maturity, this slow-growing variety becomes a large, spire-like tree.

‘Picola’ – a dwarf, conical selection with short, 2 inch (5 cm) long, shiny dark-green needles. After 10 years years of growth, a specimen will stand only 30 inches (80 cm) tall and 15 inches (35 cm) wide, suggesting an annual rate of growth of 2.5 inches (8 cm).

 

Outdoor Holiday Decorating With Poinsettias and Cyclamens

Outdoor planting of hardy cyclamen

Poinsettia in Jacksonville, FL landscape

If you live in U.S. hardiness zones 3-7, December weather is ordinarily is too frigid to grow poinsettias and cyclamen outdoors. Southeastern U.S. cities like Charleston, SC, Savannah, GA, and northern parts of FL like Jacksonville, Tampa and Orlando enjoy mild December temperatures 50 º F. lies in zone 8 as well as most of the Dallas TX.

Whether planted in front of a shopping center, a restaurant, or your home, these brightly colored plants should put you into the holiday spirit. Poinsettias are native to Mexico (USDA hardiness zones 9 to 11. If poinsettias and cyclamens are planted nearby a building foundation, they often enjoy a micro-environment protection of 4-5 º F.

Hardy cyclamen (Cyclamen spp.) are native to the Mediterranean region and flowers are available in  a wide range of white and pink shades. Breeders have developed several plant sizes ranging from small, medium and large. Some varieties are fragrant. At Black Friday sales around Thanksgiving, poinsettias may sell for less than $2.00 at the big box stores.

Here are some basic care tips for outdoor care:

  • Place poinsettias and cyclamens in bright natural light to morning only sunlight.
  • Keep plants away from high winds.
  • Brightly colored poinsettia bracts should remain fresh if outdoor temperatures do not exceed 80 º F or drop below 50 º F in November and December.
  • Water  plants thoroughly weekly if set bare-root in planter beds or every 3-4 days in pots if natural rainfall is low. Never leave plants sitting in water over several hours.
  • Feed plants every 2-3 week with a water soluble fertilizer such as Schultz™ and Miracle-Gro™ at recommended rates for house plants.
  • Plant quality will begin to decline in early January. You may opt to discard plants or grow them on for their foliage.

 

Spring Star Flowers (Ipheion)

Starflower (Ipheion)

Spring star flowers (Ipheion uniflorum), native to Argentina and Uruguay, feature grass-like foliage and 6-petaled star-shaped flowers on 3-6 inches tall stems in early spring (April). Each bulb produces multiple flowering stems. Flowers range in color from almost white to violet blue and emit a mild spicy fragrance. In addition the grassy foliage gives off an oniony or garlic aroma when crushed. They are in the Liliaceae plant family and their scent repels deer and rabbits.

Star flowers are one of the easiest bulbs to grow. These minor bulbs grow in average, medium, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. They’re tolerant of a wide range of soils. In fall, sow bulbs 2-4 inches deep and 2-4 inches apart. Bulbs naturalize rapidly by bulb offsets and  also by self-seeding. Plants go dormant by late spring. Lightly feed  the planting in early spring with 10-20-10 or equivalent fertilizer.

Bulbs may start out slowly the first year, but star flowers eventually naturalize. Once established, star flowers produce masses of quarter size blooms lasting 3-4 weeks even if planted in the home lawn.  Star flowers flourish in the Southeastern U.S. west to Texas (USDA hardiness zones 4-9).

Star flowers are great planted in a rock garden, containers, front borders or mixed among peonies, heucheras, hostas, et al.  Sow masses of bulbs under recently planted shade trees. Branches should be limbed up high enough to permit the early spring sunlight to filter down to the bulb foliage.

I have found the largest variety selection listed in Brent and Becky’s fall catalog @Brent and Becky’s Bulb, Inc. in Gloucester, VA.  A few favorites include: ‘Jessie’ (described as the darkest blue); ‘Rolf Fiedler’ (bright deep blue), ‘Tessa’ (light pale blue), ‘White Star’ White stars), and ‘Wisley Blue’ (variable shades of blue).

Decorate your spring kitchen table with a small vase of these beauties.

Hardy Sedum Groundcovers

Sedum ‘Lidakense’ at Kingwood Center in Mansfield, Ohio

S. rupestre ‘Angelina’

Sedums (Sedum spp.) are tough, easy to grow perennials (zones 3-9). Plants prefer average dry to moist well-drained soils and full to partial sun. Most sedums do not tolerate wet soils. Their thick succulent glossy leaves lead to the plants’ exceptional drought resistance. Sedums are exceptionally easy to root from leaf and stem cuttings.

Low groundcover types are featured here. These creeping beauties fill in spaces between taller plants or creep into crevices in rock garden or on steep cliffs. These sedums produce masses of tiny, star-like floral heads and attract lots of pollinators. Some creeping sedums are evergreen or semi-evergreen with thick leaves of many shapes, sizes and colors. Most are deciduous. These undemanding plants love hot dry garden sites and thrive as well in containers, on rock walls and rooftop gardens.

Eight of the best low growing groundcover types:

S. cauticolum ‘Lidakense’ – round blue foliage on low 3-4 inch tall spreading plants with gracefully arching stems; tiny brilliant pink star flowers in late summer.

S. floriferum ‘Weihenstephaner Gold’ –4-6 inches tall dense groundcover; covered in canary yellow star-shaped flowers in late spring.

S. kamtschaticum – 3-6 inch tall with needle-like foliage that emerges chartreuse, turns golden yellow in summer, and orange and red shades in fall; yellow flowers in mid-summer.

S. reflexum ‘Blue Spruce – ground-hugging 3-6 inch tall dense mat of conifer-like blue foliage; deep mauve pink stems rise to 10 inches high, topped by brilliant yellow flowers.

S. rupestre ‘Angelina’ – 6-10 inch tall aggressive spreading; needle-like foliage that emerges chartreuse, turns golden yellow in summer and to rich shades of orange and red in fall; yellow flowers in mid-summer.

S. spurium ‘John Creech’ – 3-6 inch tall dense mat of small, scalloped green leaves, topped with rose pink flowers in late summer.

S. spurium ‘Red Carpet’ – vigorous grower that starts red in spring, holds its color all season; rosy red flowers in summer.

S. ‘Vera Jamison’ – low, spreading grower with arching stems of round, smoky blue foliage that gradually turns deep burgundy purple; dusky pink flowers in late summer.

Tips for Growing Abutilon (Flowering Maple)

‘Ball Gown’ plants for sale at Biltmore Estates

Abutilon (Abutilon x hybridum) is a group of tender evergreen perennials (USDA hardiness zones 9-11). In USDA hardiness zones 6 thru 8, abutilon is grown outdoors from mid-spring to mid- autumn, when it is moved indoors and grown as a tropical houseplant. When moved indoors, partially cut back to fit its indoor space. In early spring prune the plant back hard.

Abutilon -flowering maple 

Abutilon is known by several names including Chinese bellflower, Chinese lantern, Parlor maple, and flowering maple. It’s related to mallows and hibiscus (plant family Malvaceae). Albutilon has maple-like palmate deeply lobed leaves and bears colorful delicate looking flowers. Abutilon may flower almost non-stop in shades from white, pale yellow, orange, red, and bi-colors.

Abutilon is not too particular about soil (potting media). It should be well-drained, moist, and pH near neutral (6.2-7.2). Re-pot a container grown plant(s) into new larger containers and in new potting soil. Feed every two weeks with a dilute, water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™, Jack’s™, or Schultz™.

During the summer abutilon may be infested with whiteflies, spider mites, scale and mealybugs. Spray leaves and stems with water to wash pests off or spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Plants should be adequately spaced and keep foliage dry to prevent leaf spots and rust diseases.

Some gardeners opt to train abutilon into a tree or topiary form. Flowering maple is also great in a garden bed or a hanging basket. Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to their pendent bell-shaped flowers, available in many colors including yellow, orange, pink, red, and bi-colors.

Today’s flowering maples are the result of hybridizing between four species A. darwinii, A. striatum, A. pictum, and A. megapotamicum.  One of the finest is ‘Biltmore Ballgown’, an heirloom variety sold by Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC. It grows 2-4 feet high and 1-2 feet wide with showy orange-netted lantern flowers.

Abutilon is propagated by softwood cuttings. Beware: Leaf sap may cause mild dermatitis in susceptible individuals.

Fertilizing Trees And Shrubs

Fertilize area under tree 1.5 times the tree’s spread

Apply fertilizer in planting area under the sweetgums

Maintaining good  plant nutrition is of key importance. A tree and shrub which is growing vigorously can resist infestation from most diseases and insects. Symptoms of poor nutrition: pale green or chlorotic leaves; undersized plants;  slower annual growth rate; many dead or dying branch tips; increased insect/disease problems.

Trees under 10 years of age should be fertilized annually. There is little need to feed newly planted specimens and those suffering root damage from recent trenching or construction. Yard shade trees generally receive adequate fertilizing if the lawn is fed twice annually. Old established trees do not need to be fertilized every year.

High pH (alkaline) soils can result in chronic deficiencies of nutrients in some tree species, such as red maple, birch and pin oak, as well as nitrogen-deficient soils. Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are essential plant nutrients found in bags of fertilizers. The analysis will vary from one fertilizer manufacturer to another. Some products may be organic-based and are “slow-release”.

The fertilizer label on the package lists the exact proportions of available nutrients. For example, a bag label of 20-10-10 contains 20% N, 10% P (phosphoric acid), and 10% potassium (K) as potash. A 50 pound bag containing 20% nitrogen fertilizer (10 pounds of actual nitrogen) and also 5 pounds each of P and K.

Your soil should be tested every 4-5 years to check and correct (if necessary) a nutrient deficiency or soil pH that may be out of balance. Many land grant universities and full service garden centers offer fee-based soil testing.

General Fertilizer Program for trees and shrubs:

Here in Tennessee or Virginia, the best time to fertilize is late March or early April or in late fall once plants are dormant. In New England or Midwestern states, application time may be 2-4 weeks later. Weigh out the recommended fertilizer and distribute it evenly under the tree or around the shrub. Do not fertilize within 12 inches of the main trunk. Do not exceed rate of 3 lbs. of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Tree roots usually spread 1.5 times the diameter of the branch spread or that of the shrub width. Around mass groupings of plants, calculate the surface area around the entire planting to be fertilized (see photos above).

Information Source: Morton Arboretum in Lisle IL

Beware Of Fast Growing Trees

Platanus x acerifolia

Silver maple in autumn

Many property owners choose fast growing landscape trees. These large shade trees increase the value of your property. Their summer shade and wintry wind protection may reduce utility bills by 20 – 25% . Trees attract wild birds for nesting, protection, and as a food source. Some brighten up your landscape with dazzling fall color. However, we may pay a price for the fast growth.

Trees listed here are rated as fast growing. In general, most (not all) fast growing trees are weak wooded. Branches may break apart under ice or snow loads and in high winds. Their shallow roots may uplift or crack sidewalks. Do not plant fast growing species within 50 feet of your home as tree roots may penetrate foundations and septic fields. This is particularly true for silver maples, cottonwoods, poplars, and weeping willows. Some species are also susceptible to verticillium wilt, leaf anthracnose, and cankers; pests like scale and borers may be troublesome at times.

Do not assume that all listed species are troublesome. Those marked by an asterisk (*) are superior trees and are highly recommended. All species are rated hardy in USDA zones 5-8. Better cultivars are listed for a few species.

Fifteen Large Fast Growing trees (25 feet or more high after 10 years):

Box elder (Acer negundo)

*Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum) ‘Silver Queen’

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) – rated an invasive species in some states

Eastern cottonwood

Common hackberry (Celtis occidentalis)

*Tulip poplar, tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)

Empress tree (Paulownia tomentosum) – rated an invasive species in some states

*London Planetree (Platanus x acerfolia)

Sycamore, planetree (Platanus occidentalis)

Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)

Lombardy poplar (Populus nigra ‘Italica’)

Quaking aspen (Populus tremuloides)

Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica)

*Basswood, American linden (Tilia americana)

*American Elm (Ulmus americana) ‘Washington’, Princeton’, ‘Jefferson’

Siberian elm (Ulmus pumilo) -rated an invasive species in some states