What Grows There :: Hugh Conlon, Horticulturalist, Garden Advisor, and Photographer

Why Newly Planted Trees Die

Posted by Hugh on January 26th, 2024

Proper Planting Depth (tree flare just above soil line)

The loss or decline of a newly planted tree or shrub is usually a result of multiple factors. One of the worst mistakes is planting trees or shrubs too deeply – whether they are planted by a home gardener or a landscape professional. I’ve witnessed both. Surface roots are deprived of oxygen the deeper trees are set into the ground. Less oxygen leads to slower growth and eventual root death. Burying the trunk deeply makes the bark more susceptible to attack from diseases or insects which can bring about the demise of a plant.

Nursery trees and shrubs, whether balled and burlapped (b&b) or container grown, should be set (planted) at the same depth they were growing at the nursery or in the container. The tree may also be covered over with too much mulch.

Many container-grown trees and shrubs are frequently grown in a soilless organic media such as bark, composed wood fiber, and /or peat moss. Over time the organic media will subside or reduce in volume. At the garden center or nursery, plants may be buried by soil or mulch piled up around the container to reduce irrigation and keep roots cool.

Before planting, look for the tree’s root flare which should be at or above the ground surface. It should appear clean and healthy with no cuts or injury. Avoid planting too deeply. Young trees may have little or no root flare and more evident on larger woody specimens.

B&B Tree planting steps:

1. Remove all strapping, twine or ropes from around the trunk and roots of the tree. Over time, the straps may girdled the trunk and result in tree death.

2. Next, remove the burlap, particularly synthetic burlap, from the top of the root ball and find the root flare of the tree to determined proper planting depth. This may be several inches below the soil surface.

3. Dig a shallow hole deep enough and 2-3 times the width of the root ball. Set the tree so the root flare is at or slightly above the soil surface. Do not dig deep holes. Refill the hole to the proper height will result in settling of the tree to a deeper improper depth over time.

4. Place the tree in the hole and at minimum remove all-natural cloth (jute) burlap. The burlap will wick moisture out of the soil if it is visible above the soil. Also, remove as much of the wire cage as is practical. Remove the wire basket (cage) or at least the top third. Remove all synthetic burlap whenever possible.

5. Fill the hole surrounding the root ball and pack the soil firmly around the ball to stabilize the tree. Gradually, refill the hole making sure no air pockets remain in the backfill. Do not add soil amendments (compost, manure, bagged “soils”, etc.) to the planting hole. Only soil that was removed from the hole should go back in.

6. Mulch to a depth of 3-4 inches with a coarse mulch a such as wood chips, pine bark or pine needles.

7. Water in the tree with a minimum of 5 gallons of water as weather every 2-weeks if rainfall is less than 1-inch weekly. Irrigation removes most soil air pockets and firms the soil around the roots.

8. Staking is unnecessary unless the planting site is excessively windy. The stakes and straps should be removed after 2-3 years.

New USDA Hardiness Zone Map

Posted by Hugh on January 7th, 2024

The USDA Plant Zone Hardiness Zone Map is an important garden reference to anyone who gardens in the continental United States, Alaska, Hawaii or Puerto Rico.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) today released a new version of its Plant Hardiness Zone Map (PHZM), updating this valuable tool for gardeners and researchers for the first time since 2012. USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map is the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which plants are most likely to thrive at a location. The new map—jointly developed by USDA’s Agricultural Research Service (ARS) and Oregon State University’s (OSU) PRISM Climate Group—is more accurate and contains greater detail than prior versions.

It is available online at https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/. In addition to the map updates, the PHZM website was expanded in 2023 to include a “Tips for Growers” section, which provides information about USDA ARS research programs of interest to gardeners and others who grow and breed plants.

The 2023 map is based on 30-year averages of the lowest annual winter temperatures at specific locations, is divided into 10 °F zones and further divided into 5 °F half-zones. Like the previous map issued in 2023, the new web version offers a Geographic Information System (GIS)-based interactive format and is more user-friendly, including several new, significant features and advances.

The 2023 PHZM is now available as a premier source of information that gardeners, growers and researchers alike can use. A paper version of the 2023 map will not be available for purchase; instead, anyone may download and print copies as needed.

Plant hardiness zone designations represent what’s known as the “average annual extreme minimum temperature” at a given location during the past 30 years. They do not reflect the coldest it has ever been or ever will be at a specific location. It simply records the average lowest winter temperature for the location over a specified time. Low temperature during the winter is a crucial factor in the survival of plants at specific locations.

The map has 13 zones across the U.S. and its territories. Each zone is broken into half zones, designated as “A” and “B.” For example, zone 7 is divided into 7a and 7b half zones. Compared to the 2012 map, the 2023 version reveals that about half of the country shifted to the next warmer half zone, and the other half of the country remained in the same half zone. That shift to the next warmer half zone means those areas warmed somewhere in the range of 0-5 °F. Also, some locations experienced warming in the range of 0-5 °F without moving to another half zone.

‘Jeana’ Phlox 2024 PPOY

Posted by Hugh on January 1st, 2024

The Perennial Plant Association (PPA) has selected ‘Jeana’ the 2024 Perennial Plant of the Year (PPOY). This exceptional garden phlox is recognized for its impressive flower show, tall sturdy plant habit, and pollinators’ delight. (USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8).

Dense, domed lavender-pink flowers stand atop long sturdy stems from midsummer to early fall. Individually, the fragrant bloom trusses are significantly smaller than typical garden phlox — only about half an inch wide — but the show at peak is eye-popping, nonetheless. This is a case where bigger is not better, from a pollinator’s perspective anyhow.

‘Jeana’ phlox is discovered by Jeana Prewitt along the Harpeth River in Nashville, TN. Jeana phlox grows vigorously to 4-5 feet in height and 2-3 feet in spread. Stems are sturdy and well-branched to support the sweetly scented 6-inch soft lavender-pink flowers on top. Each flower comprises 15 – 25 one-half inch wide florets, each one dotted with a darker pink center or eye.

In garden phlox 3-year trial (2015 -2017) at Mt. Cuba Center in Delaware, the nectar-rich flowers of ‘Jeana’ attracted more butterflies — Eastern Tiger Swallowtails were especially plentiful — than any other garden phlox in their study. Hummingbirds and other pollinators were fans as well.

Topped with flowers, ‘Jeana’ can reach 5 feet tall and 4 feet wide, although size will vary geographically. Its bright green foliage is highly powdery mildew resistant; ‘Jeana’ stays attractive, in bloom or not in the summer garden.

Tall garden phlox provide structure and color in summer gardens and are good bridging plants between early and later flowering perennials. ‘Jeana’ is at home in traditional borders and meadows and is a natural in pollinator gardens.

Divide clumps every 3-5 years in spring. Deadheading promotes continued blooming and prevents self-seeding. Powdery mildew and spider mites may be foliar problems in hot or dry conditions. Thinning out stems improves air circulation and guards against mildew. Deer and rabbits can be pests.

‘Jeana’ phlox is a garden companion with other tall perennials including bluestars (Amsonia spp.), Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum ×superbum), coneflowers (Echinacea spp.), black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta), and switch grasses (Panicum virgatum).

Note: A brightly colored tee shirt of Phlox ‘Jeana’ is available for sale on the Perennial Plant Association website.

Growing The True Christmas Cactus

Posted by Hugh on December 25th, 2023

Despite its name, the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera buckleyi) is an epiphytic plant that grows on trees and rocks in habitats that are generally shady with high humidity. This tropical member of the Cactus family (Cactaceae) is not a true cactus. Tiny roots may cling to the plant or rock that it’s growing on. It is a succulent plant that stores moisture in its leaves. Chrstmas cactus is marginally drought tolerant, e.g. it needs to be watered more often and does not tolerate the sun’s heat and light intensity.

Christmas cactus (*Schlumbergera x buckleyi*)

Christmas cactus is rarely sold at garden shops which prefer selling the more heavier flowering Thanksgiving cactus (S. truncata). Hybrid Thanksgiving cacti bloom earlier, hence the name, and produce showier blooms than Christmas cactus. Flowers are an elongated tube, reds, pink or orange hues, or white.

Christmas cactus initiates flowering from mid-December into February. Blooms droop down toward the ground and the stem segments (clados) are flattened with scalloped edges. “Leaves” are actually elongated segments with scalloped edges and not tipped (pointed).

Christmas cactus thrives in porous sandy potting media so that water drains off rapidly quickly. Don’t allow plant roots to sit in water. Plants prefer to be slightly root-bound. Repot holiday cacti once every 1-2 years. Repotting Christmas cacti too often can cause branch segments to snap off.

Add fresh growing media to the top of the pot to replace lost potting soil after many months. Fertilize plant every 2-3 weeks with a water-soluble fertilizer like 20-10-20 or 15-5-15 from March thru October and do not feed holiday cacti from November thru February.

Temps and photoperiod are key factors to successful Christmas (winter) blooming. Plants set flower buds when fall daylengths are shorter (12-14 uninterrupted dark interval), cool night temps around 50-55 °F, and daylight temps not exceeding 75 °F.

If your cactus isn’t exposed to cool 14-hour nights, it may never flower. This is the number one reason why Christmas cactus never blooms. The fix is an easy remedy.

Bring your plant indoor in the fall and reacclimate it to the indoor environment. By mid-October start to initiate flower buds for the holidays. Set your plant(s) in an east-facing sunny window, so the scalloped leaves don’t burn. Daytime hours should be around 65-70 °F and nighttime temperatures around 55-60°F fall and not drop below 40. Sudden fluctuations in temperatures, light and humidity may cause plants to drop floral buds.

Foliage may sunburn (redden) in direct sunlight. A stressed plant may not bloom during the winter holiday season. If the healthy scalloped green leaves develop a reddish tint, they are sunburned. Foliage should recover when moved away from direct sun.

Holiday cacti are non-poisonous and safe for pets and people alike. Over the years holiday cacti may become heirloom plants and bequeath in wills and estates. With good care, you can expect your plant to at least 30 years on average. Stem cuttings root easily in a 3:1 perlite: peat or a coarse sand: peat mix.

Spider mites, scale, mealybugs, and aphids are problem pests as well as root rots from overwatering.

Vines Worth Growing

Posted by Hugh on December 19th, 2023

Vines add a vertical dimension in your garden. With many vines, you don’t need to construct expensive arbors and trellises for them to climb. Borrowing an idea from nature, vines love to ramble or attach readily onto shrubs and trees. Some vines like periwinkle (Vinca minor) and English ivy (Hedera helix) make attractive ground covers on slopes. Yes, there is no hiding the fact that some vines can grow aggressively looking weedy and choking out everything in their path. Here, I am highlighting five vines, three natives and two non-natives, that are not garden thugs.

Trumpet honeysuckle (*Lonicera* sempervirens)

Trumpet or Coral Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) is a native twining vine in the Caprifoliaceae (honeysuckle) family. Flowers appear in mid-spring and is often non-fragrant. It is a nice addition to a butterfly, native, or pollinator garden. This vigorous vine is evergreen where winters are mild in the deep South. Recommend ‘Major Wheeler’ (scarlet crimson), ‘John Clayton’ (yellow-flowered), ‘Sulfurea’ (pure yellow). (Zones 4–8)

‘Betty Corning’ clematis (Clematis ‘Betty Corning’) exudes pure elegance. The sky blue/pinkish blooms curl slightly upwards at the petal tips, which makes one think of ballerina skirts in mid-twirl blue-violet bells. A sweet aroma accompanies them. Never denying a chance to soar, this clematis will eagerly climb anything it can attach its tendrils onto – lampposts, fences, and even other shrubs! Preferring overhead sunlight and cool shaded roots, mulching will keep Betty happy all season long. Zones 4-9

Crossvine (Bignonia capreolata) is a vigorous self-clinging native vine in the trumpet creeper (Bignoniaceae) family. The vine blooms in early spring on new wood in clusters of two to five flowers. Its early bloom season provides a nice stopping point for hummingbirds in the area. This tropical looking vine climbs by using tendrils vigorous, self-clinging vine easily attaches itself by tendrils to almost any surface, including nearby fences or trees. Vine has dark, glossy green leaves that take on a reddish-purple color in autumn. Leading cultivars: ‘Tangerine Beauty’. ‘Jekyll’. (Zones 5-9).

Clematis ‘Rooguchi’ (C. integrifolia x C. x durandii) is a non-vining, multi-stemmed, herbaceous perennial that grows with support to 6-8 feet tall and 3-4 feet spread. You can grow it as a rambling unsupported through the garden over shrubs and tree branches or tied to supports (trellis, arbor, tripod, fence) for vertical support. Solitary, nodding, violet to plum colored, bell-shaped 2 1/2” long flowers have 4 recurving sepals with recurving tips and light lavender margins. It is also sold as ‘Rouguchi’ or ‘Roguchi’. (Zones 4-8).

Pipevine (Aristolochia macrophylla), aka Dutchman’s pipe, is a perennial vine native to the eastern U.S. It prefers full sun to partial shade and rich, moist, and well-drained soil and resents dry soil. Grow in a sheltered area away from strong winds. Flowers are usually inconspicuous, mostly hidden within the vine’s dense foliage. The small blossoms are yellowish green with brownish-purple lobes in the shape of a smoking pipe. The leaves are smooth, heart-shaped, deep green, and silver-colored underneath. (USDA hardiness zones 4-8)

Recent PHS Gold Medal* Perennial Picks

Posted by Hugh on December 12th, 2023

Each year the Pennsylvania Horticulture Society (PHS) recognizes six outstanding plants that a group of nursery owners, horticulturists, expert gardeners, and professional growers singe out as among the best performing and most beautiful for inclusion into the Mid-Atlantic Region Gold Medal program.

All seven perennials perform equally well in the mid-South (Tennessee, Virginia, Kentucky and Northern Counties of North and South Carolina, Georgia and Alabama.

‘Jeana’ Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata) is a great summer blooming perennial phlox that is also highly resistant to powdery mildew. Data collected at Mt. Cuba Center in Delaware reported that butterflies love its fragrant tubular, bright lavender pink flowers. This native perennial is heat and drought-resistant. It grows 2-3 feet tall and blooms for weeks in the hot summer.

‘Hot Lips’ Pink Turtlehead (Chelone lyonia) produces unique pink summer flowers that resemble a turtle’s head in shape. Enjoy over a month-long flowering period way into the fall. ‘Hot Lips’ excels in partial shade and humus-rich moist soils; an exceptional performer in a rain garden or nearby a pond or any other water feature.

Japanese roof Iris (Iris tectorum) offers beautiful showy flowers in shades of lavender blue, blush violet, and blue lilac. It performs best on a humus-rich, medium moist, well-drained soil and in full sun to partial shade. Provide shelter from dry winter winds and winter mulch. Its foliage is arranged in fans of narrow, lance-shaped, ribbed, glossy, upright leaves. It is deer resistant and grows 12 to 18 inches tall in maturity. (USDA hardiness zones 6-9).

Indian Pink (Spigelia marilandica) is a native perennial that blooms in early summer featuring red tubular flowers with yellow throats held above green foliage. Flowers sit atop 18-24 inches stems and are attractive to hummingbirds. It grows best in mostly full sun and average to moist soils. Deadhead this clump-forming perennial for blooms from May into late September. It is deer proof but not rabbit resistant. (USDA hardiness zones 6-9).

‘Brandywine’ foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) is an early spring long blooming, native ground cover perennial. Foamflower thrives in part to full shade and grows best in moist soils; one-year established plants demonstrate good drought tolerance. Delicate fuzzy white flowers emerge through clean spring green foliage and bloom almost 2 months. Foamflowers attract specialist bee species and other pollinators. Deer snub the fresh green spring foliage which grows 8-18 inches tall and turns reddish bronze in fall. (USDA hardiness zones 4-8).

‘Iron Butterfly’ (Vernonia lettermannii) is a superior ironweed clone. This tough native perennial thrives in a wide range of soils and survives in hot humid or dry sites. It grows 18 inches tall. In fall the stems are topped with many fine bright purple flowers. The thread-like foliage is showy and turns brilliant golden hues in the fall. ‘Iron Butterfly’ is a great pollinator attracting plant. (USDA hardiness zones 4-8).

‘Caramel’ Coral bells (Heuchera x ‘Caramel’) is a vigorous, clump-forming coral bells that struts unique apricot foliage that stands out through spring, summer, and fall. Plant several in the landscape as a ground cover, or en masse in a perennial border. ‘Caramel’ grows best in humus-rich, moist, well-drained soils in part shade; it grows in full sun under adequate watering. ‘Caramel’ is deer resistant. (USDA hardiness zones 4-9).

*Visit the PHS Gold Medal website to view the entire 30-year-old listing.

Snowdrops (Galanthus)

Posted by Hugh on December 6th, 2023

Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are one of the first flowers to bloom in the spring. Depending on the region where you live, snowdrops appear in the early days of spring; often snow still blankets the ground. Snowdrops are tiny plants (3 – 6 inches tall) that produce multiple small showy, white, bell-shaped flowers, which hangs off the ends of green, leafless stalks. When the bloom opens, three outer petals arch out over three inner petals. The grayish-green leaves emerge first into 3-4 inches long strap-like blades.

Snowdrops pop up in mostly deciduous woodlands (maples, lindens, ornamental cherries, dogwoods, oaks, etc.). Winter light should average 6 or more hours of filtered sunlight. Plant snowdrop bulbs in a loose, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Snowdrops do not thrive in heavy clay.

The most common varieties planted in U.S. and Canadian gardens: Common snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) grow 6-8 inches tall with many varieties including G. nivalis ‘Flore Pleno’, a double white flowering form (zones 3-7). Giant snowdrops (G. elwesii) grow 10 -12 inches tall and include varieties ‘Polar Bear’ and ‘Mount Everest’ (zones 3-8). If you are a snowdrop hobbyist, mark garden patches with a variety (cultivar) label.

David Culp’s Snowdrop Patch at Brandywine Cottage in PA (summer dormancy period)

Plant snowdrop bulbs 3-inches deep in soil that you have thoroughly cultivated. Space bulbs 3-4- inches apart. The bulb tip should be set in hole facing up. In late fall add a thin 1–2-inch layer of compost to provide the nutritional needs for next year’s bloom. Spreading a bulb fertilizer may give snowdrops a slight growth boost after flowering. Snowdrops will often naturalize. Lift and divide crowded bulb clumps if you wish to increase the total numbers of snowdrops or trade with garden friends.

Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa), Crocus (Crocus spp.), Winter aconite bulbs (Eranthis hyemalis), Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia), and Bloodroot (Sanguinaria) are excellent companion plants with snowdrops in a woodland or rock garden setting. Do not buy snowdrop bulbs too far ahead of planting time to avoid them from drying out.

Snowdrops are resistant to deer and rabbits and are poisonous to pets and humans. Wear gloves when handling bulbs or plants to avoid possible skin irritation.

Naturalized multi-year planting of snowdrops

Foster Holly

Posted by Hugh on November 30th, 2023

Foster holly (Ilex x attenuata) is an old holly favorite which has not lost its sizzle. Cultivars of Foster Hollies were selected by E.E. Foster of Foster Nursery in Bessemer, Alabama in the 1950s. It is utilized in a number of landscape options across the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7), including in containers in zones 7 and 8.

Back in the 1940’s, five selections of Foster hollies were introduced by E. E. Foster of Foster Nursery in Bessemer, AL. Eighty years later, the berry producing variety, ‘Foster #2’, remains highly popular; it produces a bountiful yield of small bright red holly berries. Fruits continue to be effective throughout the winter and are an important food source for many birds. ‘Foster #4’ is its male pollinator mate, but in most locales, male American hollies (I. opaca) also pollinate Foster #2.

*Ilex x attenuata* ‘Sunny-Foster’ -gold-leaf form

Foster hollies grows fast into small 12-30 tall trees or shrubs. They exhibit a strong vertical presence when utilized as specimen or foundation shrubs in front of tall edifices and on the corners of homes and apartment buildings. Foster holly is an excellent choice as a privacy screen.

For the artistically minded, fashion these hollies into almost any topiary plant form. Leaf spines are soft, not sharp as on some holly species. Female plants produce large quantities of berries. Cut boughs are decorative around the Christmas holiday period. Foster hollies are not utilized as foundation plants as they quickly outgrow their planting area (see photo below).

Unfortunately, Foster hollies are not commonly found in nursery commerce for sales. Ask local nurseries and full-service garden centers to source them for you.

Foster hollies planted too close to building

Hollies (Ilex spp.) grow in a moderately acidic (pH 5.8 – 6.5), well-drained soil and in full to partial sunlight. Feed with a water-soluble acidic fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™, Miracid™, or Hollytone®.

Amaryllis Make Great Holiday Gifts

Posted by Hugh on November 22nd, 2023

Amaryllis at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

What do you gift the gardener friends in your life? Let me suggest a flowering amaryllis bulb or one that is blooming in the plant shoppe. Amaryllis is a tropical bulb that blooms indoors usually in winter season (USDA hardiness zones 9-11). It is a big, beautiful bouquet that is among the easiest plants to grow. A single amaryllis bulb is a flowering dynamo. Simply, you just plant the bulb into a container and add water.

There are many varieties and colors to choose. Usually, local garden centers sell bulbs starting in early fall and offer some already blooming. Bulb size is important. I recommend purchasing large size bulbs over 30 cm across that produce several bloom stalks and greater numbers of flowers. For example, a 34 cm bulb size should produce 2-4 bloom stalks, each bearing 3-4 flowers. The newly potted bulb should flower in 6-8 weeks if room temps are between 68-72°F. Newly purchased amaryllis bulbs should be planted immediately or can be stored over several months in a cool dark (40-50°F) dry place prior to potting.

Amaryllis blooming at Biltmore Conservatory

Select a pot with a wide base, large enough to accommodate the new bulb. Fill the bottom of the container with fresh potting media and set the bulb on top. Finish filling and packing the potting mix. Leave 1-2 inches of the bulb top (the shoulders and neck) exposed. Thoroughly water the potting media to settle the bulb. Place the pot in a cool (60-70°F) location and in bright light indoors or one-half day morning sunlight outdoors. The bulb is dormant and ready to sprout. A bulb potted in early November should be blooming by New Year’s Day.

Continue to water as needed after shoots and flower buds have emerged. Rotate the pot ¼ turn every 4-5 days to keep the stem growing straight up and not bending toward the window light. Avoid overwatering that may cause the amaryllis bulb to rot. The large flowers may become top heavy. If needed, stake the flower stalk for additional support.

Blooms last longer if you can keep them away from direct sunlight and dry heat. As the individual flowers fade, snip them off with a sharp knife. Eventually, cut back the entire bloom stalk to about an inch above the bulb.

Want to rebloom your amaryllis? Simply stop watering in the fall and store the potted bulb in a cool storage area and very low light for 2-3 months. Clip off the old dried leaves have dried up and the bulb is now dormant. Starting in late January or February, restart the amaryllis by watering it. It should rebloom in 6-10 weeks at room temperature.

Amaryllis bulbs will re-bloom annually in the same pot for several years. After spring freeze and frosts are over, move amaryllis outdoors into ½ day of sunlight (full morning preferred) and protect from drying winds. From spring to early fall, continue to water as needed and feed monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer like Miracle Gro™ or Peters™. Bring the pot back indoors when night temperatures fall below 40°F.

Amaryllis bulbs make great holiday gifts for garden friends and neighbors. Brent and Becky’s Bulbs, an online bulb emporium in Gloucester, VA, lists many colorful varieties in their on-line catalog.

Substitutes For Callery Pear

Posted by Hugh on November 15th, 2023

Bradford Pear (*Pyrus calleryana* ‘Bradford’)

The end to planting Callery pears (Pyrus calleryana), aka Bradford Pear, is almost within sight as more states are banning sales of the tree at garden centers and box store garden departments. Recently, Ohio, South Carolina and Pennsylvania have banned further plantings.

This March blooming flowering tree has been determined to be invasive. It produces fruits in the fall which competes with native flora in many states. The average gardener will likely know the callery pear by its varietal name “Bradford pear”.

Callery pears are reliable spring bloomers, the trees covered with white blossoms for 2-3 weeks in late winter and early days of spring. In most years trees strut an exceptional crimson red leaf color in late autumn. Trees have few disease or insect problems, are adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions, and cope on urban sites.

Wild callery pears aggressively compete and frequently displace the native plant species growing on the site. They have invaded natural woodlands and parks. It has become a problematic tree as well. Callery pears are not a long-lived tree, rarely lasting more than 25 years. The tree has a weak structure at the “V” of the branches.

Tree branching is notorious brittle resulting in limb breakage during ice and windstorms, often resulting in the tree’s removal. Limbs snap off in areas from old age. Further, blooming trees emit an unpleasant fragrance. Seedling trees produce sharp pointed thorns which snag clothing during pruning or puncture tires if you attempt to drive over fallen branches.

Bradford pear flowers are self-incompatible, that is, they do not fertilize other ‘Bradford’ pears flowers. However, they successfully pollinate other callery pear varieties, such as ‘Redspire’, ‘Aristocrat’, ‘Chanticleer’, ‘Whitehouse’, and ‘Cleveland Select’ among others. These varieties produce tiny, hard pear fruits, each ½-inch in diameter, green to brown in color, and contain viable seeds. Birds or other animals eat these fruits and disperse the seeds across the countryside.

Consider these spring flowering trees when replacing Callery pears: Redbuds (Cercus spp.), Crabapples (Malus spp.), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.), Flowering Cherries (Prunus spp.), and Carolina Silverbells (Halesia diptera). In mid-South locations, early flowering deciduous Magnolias are also better alternatives to callery pears.

If you spot wild callery pears seedling trees growing on your property, cut them down and paint the stump with any herbicide containing the ingredient Glyphosate® to prevent the tree from resprouting.