What Grows There :: Hugh Conlon, Horticulturalist, Garden Advisor, and Photographer

‘Halloween Hocus Pocus’ Daylily For Garden Goblins

Posted by Hugh on October 1st, 2013

'Halloween Hocus Pocus' daylily

On a pleasant July morning I saw my first ‘Halloween Hocus Pocus’ daylily (Hemerocallus x ‘Hocus Pocus’) in a friend’s garden. The 5 ½ inch flowers stand on 26 inch tall stems (scapes) and the foliage is semi-evergreen.

The cultivar name describes it best. Its creamy orange color with a triangular black throat and wide blacken edged petals are the perfect colors of Halloween. Flower throat is small and yellow green. Floral form is very round and full with petals overlapped. Petal substance is thick and smooth, and holds up well to full sun.

Flowers are borne on well-branched scapes and carry multiple blooms. Hocus Pocus is a vigorous grower and a mid-season bloomer. If properly watered and not subject to summer drought stress, it should re-bloom dependably in the late September into early October.

Flowers are similar to another Salter 2006 introduction ‘Halloween Trick’ which has plum color rather than blacken edges. In some catalogs it may also be listed as ‘Hocus Pocus’ and is classed as a tetraploid.

DOs and DON’Ts Checklist Before Purchasing Plants

Posted by Hugh on September 29th, 2013

Root Inspection of Japanese Maple

When shopping at the garden center don’t bring home problem plants. “Plants On Sale” should raise a caution flag. Thoroughly inspect all sale plants. They may have been sitting many months with the pots now full of weeds, diseases, or pest problems. They become tightly potbound and roots will need to be teased apart prior to planting. Some of my worse garden weeds got their start from a purchased plant. Nutsedge and oxalis are two of worse to bring home.

Inspect the underside of leaves for bugs. If the pots are easy to lift weight-wise, pop the pot off and look for live roots. Root rot diseases like Photophtora and Pythium can seriously kill roots of holly, rhododendron, azaleas, junipers in containers.

Not all roots are white-colored, but should appear plump and moist. The potting soil (media) should not contain dry patches. The media has lost its ability to hold water (“hydrophobic”). If you’re purchasing 10 or more plants, inspect 2 to 3 items.

Once home, isolate all suspicious plants for 1-2 weeks prior to planting. Recent warnings about boxwood blight should raise your concern. Boxwood blight is primarily spread from newly purchased boxwoods that introduce the disease to an existing planting. Daylily rust is started in much the same matter. It is carried from new daylily purchases.

One final point! Some percentage of plant roots growing in black nursery containers may be dead. The side of the pot facing the sun (outside rows) is where to inspect. Black containers absorb excessive solar heat, usually on the west-facing side, and roots frequently die. When purchasing plants, select plants from inside and not on the edge of the block. Similarly, winter cold temperatures may kill roots on the exposed sides of overwintering containers.

Tropical Flowering Maple

Posted by Hugh on September 26th, 2013

Chinese Parasol Tree Is Colorful Tropical

(Abutilon spp.), often called Chinese lantern or Chinese parasol plant, is a tropical houseplant (USDA hardiness zones 8-10). It offers pendant umbrella-shaped flowers along with handsome rich green five-lobed maple-like foliage. Some variegated leaf forms are available. Leaf petioles are long.

Utilize as a tropical foliage plant in the garden or a container. The brightly colored flowers are stunning. A pot plant often blooms earlier than one planted in the ground. The blooms attract hummingbirds and other pollinating insects. Some varieties are slightly cold hardier (zone 7-b), but this is no guarantee. The over-wintered plant outdoors seems to take most of the summer to struggle back and re-bloom.

Many hybrid varieties originate from Asia, Africa, and South America. Flowering may occurs in all four seasons, indoors as well as out. High light and warm temperatures of summer are mostly to their liking. For optimum growth and bloom, flowering maple needs high light from a south or east facing window and 68-72 °F minimum room temperatures.

Repot in April or May before moving outdoors in the garden. Move back indoors when night temps drop below 40 °F. Flowering maple grows exceptionally fast to 6 – 8 feet in height from spring to fall.

Follow a weekly watering schedule to establish a deep, extensive root system. Feed with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™, Jack’s™ or Daniels™ monthly at half the package rate during the spring, summer and fall months. Feed sparingly over the winter.

Prune twice annually in early spring and mid-summer to control plant size and shape. If the plant gets too leggy indoors, clip it back hard to increase branching. Flowering maple is frequently plagued by pesky whiteflies. Inspect your plant(s) for bugs before bringing indoors in the fall.

Flowering maple is easily propagated from cuttings and from seeds. Some plants may live 10 years and older and develop a 3 to 4 inch wide trunk.

Why Some Crapemyrtles Do Not Flower

Posted by Hugh on September 23rd, 2013

Sparse Flowering Caused By Multiple Factors

There are several probable reasons why your crape myrtle did not flower this summer. The two leading reasons are lack of adequate daily sunlight and planting depth. Crape myrtles should be planted in full sun. They don’t flower well in locations receiving less than 6 hours of direct sunlight each day.

If the leaves are being heavily attacked by aphids or fungal diseases like Cercospora leaf spot and powdery mildew, the plant is not producing enough carbohydrates (food) to initiate flower buds. Also, the aphids feeding may be inflicting damage to the flower buds.

“Crape Murder” pruning after new spring growth has started can delay or completely eliminate flowering. Overpruning often promotes excessive growth at the expense of flowering. In fact, crape myrtles require little annual pruning. In most years pruning on crape myrtles should be mostly cosmetic, such as to cut off a dead or crossing branch or to remove last year’s old seed heads.

Poorly drained (too wet) soils is another cause. Unusually heavy amounts of rain may retard or completely eliminate flowering. Crape myrtles must be planted on a well-drained site. Heavy rainfalls also leach nutrients out of the ground.

Over-applying nitrogen-based fertilizers may push your crape myrtle into vegetative growth and few, if any, flowers may develop.

Crape myrtles do not tolerate deep planting. The upper-most (surface) roots should be at ground-level or an inch or two above, never several inches below the soil line. When planted too deep, the roots don’t get enough oxygen, leading to reduced growth and flowering.

Crapemyrtles can recover from deep planting over several years. They must regenerate a new root system closer to the surface. Removing mulch piled up around the base of the plant will help roots breathe.

Special Thanks to: Dr. Gary Knox at North Florida Research Center

Beautyberry Deservedly Becoming More Popular

Posted by Hugh on September 20th, 2013

Vibrant Purple Berries of American Beautyberry

The stunning purple berries of beautyberry (Callicarpa spp.) are eye-catching in late summer. White fruited varieties are also sold, but the purple forms are most popular. This 6-8 foot shrub has medium green, 3-5 inch long foliage spring thru summer. Autumn leaf color adds little, the deciduous leaves turning purple to pale yellow, shriveling, and abcising.

The purple fruit clusters are electifying, perhaps nature at its gaudiest. Individual fruits measure 1/4 inch or less in size, and clustered together around the stems, creating quite a show. Numerous species of birds feed on the fruits, either from the Japanese (C. dichotima) and native (C. americana) forms.

Clusters of pink or lavender colored flowers open in mid-July, and are mostly unnoticed because of their small size; flowers are somewhat hidden within the thick foliage.

Grow beautyberry so the magnificent late summer fruit display may be easily seen. Beautyberry thrives in full sun to partial shade (as little as 1 hour of sunlight needed). Its soil needs are average, although beautyberry grows and fruits best under full day sun and in moist well drained soils. Mulch plants to reduce weeds and to conserve soil moisture.

Prune to remove winter injured branches (in USDA zone 5) and to open this dense growing shrub to additional sunlight. Heavier pruning may be required to control its wild-like nature further south. All pruning should be completed by mid-spring. Flowers and fruits form on new season’s growth.

Viable seeds are dispersed into your landscape and your neighbors’ yards as well. Invasiveness is currently unproven , so plant the native species just in case. The foliage is rarely troubled by disease or pest problems.

Better Blackberry Varieties Available

Posted by Hugh on September 18th, 2013

Trellised blackberries beginning to fruit

Growing Blackberries

Blackberries (Rubus spp.) are among the easiest fruit crops to grow in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA hardiness zones 5 and 7), but are not as hardy as raspberries.

A blackberry planting has a productive life between 8-10 years. A sturdy trellis system, composed of strong posts and wire, will make harvest chores easier. You can expect a partial crop the second year after planting and full crops in year three and beyond. Blackberry culture is similar for raspberries.

Select and prepare the planting site. Blackberries prefer open full sun and grow best in well-drained, sandy loam soils rich in organic matter. Avoid low ground areas which suffer from poor air and soil drainage. An available water supply is necessary for maximum berry yields and size.

Soil preparation is most important for multi-year harvests. Test your soil to determine its pH and fertility levels. Blackberries prefer a acidic soil pH range between 5.6 to 6.2. Most county Extension offices offer soil testing services for a small fee.

Based on your soil report, add generous amounts of organic matter and well-rotted manure to garden soil. Unless your soil analysis states differently, broadcast 20 to 25 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet over the planting area.

Blackberries require good field sanitation which includes annual cane pruning. They have few disease and pest problems. Weeds will be a common problem as they attract potentially serious pests. Mulching helps reduce weed infestations and conserve soil moisture.

Select virus-free, high yielding, and great tasting varieties. Blackberry Varieties* (by order of ripening):

Thorned:

Choctaw –small berry, high yields
Chickasaw –large berries
Kiowa –very large berries
Shawnee –high yields

Thornless Erect:

Natchez –large berries
Arapaho –low yields
Ouachita –high sugar levels
Navaho –firm berries
Apache –large berries, white drupelets

Thornless Semi-erect:

Chester –very high yields, late ripening
Triple Crown

* Blackberry varieties recommended by Dr. David Lockwood, Fruit Specialist with the Universities of Tennessee and Georgia

‘Guacamole’ Hosta An Outstanding Garden Performer

Posted by Hugh on September 14th, 2013

'Guacamole' Hosta Flowers in August Garden

Guacamole (Hosta plantaginea ‘Guacamole’) is rated one of the top performing hostas in the Northeast and mid-South U.S. gardens. Guacamole is a hybrid and one of its parents is H. plantaginea ‘Fragrant Bouquet’. In 2002 it was selected Hosta of the Year by the American Hosta Society.

Guacamole is a medium-sized hosta. It matches its catalog description within three years. Guacamole grows 1 ½ feet tall and three or more feet wide with a mound-like habit. New spring leaves unfurl with apple green centers and dark bluish-green margins. Summer foliage darkens to avocado centers and medium green margins. The high gloss leaves average 10 inches in length and 8 inches in width. Leaf venation is moderate at best.

In August multiple scapes of white funnel-shaped flowers rise 36 inches tall above avocado green foliage. Yes, the flowers are fragrant, but their scent is never overwhelming.

Hostas prefer a moist, compost-rich, well-drained soil. They are the most popular shade perennial, yet many handle full sun well under regular irrigation. In northerly areas (USDA hardiness zones 4-5) with cooler summer, most hardy cultivars grow in full sun. While mostly free of diseases and pests, many cultivars are susceptible to foliar damage from slugs and snails. Deer are also a serious menace.

Hostas should be divided every 5 years, either early spring or mid-autumn. In early spring wait for shoots to poke up, but before leaves unfurl. As leaves decline in the fall, dig up the entire clump and divide with a sharp knife.

Guacamole was introduced by Solberg in 1994.

Aster ‘Raydon’s Favorite’ Is Spectacular Autumn Bloomer

Posted by Hugh on September 11th, 2013

Aster 'Raydon's Favorite' in late October

Aster Raydon’s Favorite (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium ‘Raydon’s Favorite’) is one of our most reliable native perennial asters. This aromatic aster blooms in mid-autumn, covered with 1 ½ inch wide blue-purple daisy-like flowers with yellow centers.

Butterflies and bumble bees are frequent visitors to this aster in my October garden. Night temps in the mid-twenties don’t injure the flowers. Leaves and stems emit a minty, aromatic aroma when crushed. Raydon’s Favorite also is an excellent cutflower (U.S. hardiness zones 3 to 8).

Raydon’s Favorite forms a compact mounding shrub, growing 3 to 4 feet tall after 2-3 years, slightly wider than high. To produce more flowers and improve plant density and uniformity, prune this aster back by half in mid-July and allow it to re-grow. Feed plants again with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro®, Jack’s® or Schultz® according to package directions.

Grow in full sun and in average garden soil; it flourishes in a compost – rich soil. Established plants are exceptionally drought tolerance. Feed at planting time or in early spring with a slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote®. After flowering is completed, cut back and gather up branches to reduce seed dispersal into other parts of the garden.

Asters need to be divided once every 3 to 4 years to keep them growing vigorously. Raydon’s Favorite appears to be disease or pest free. Plant(s) should be divided in either spring or fall or from cuttings taken in early summer.

Raydon’s Favorite began appearing in garden centers about 1995, introduced by Allen Bush from a plant he received from Raydon Alexander in San Antonio, TX, from a plant he acquired on Lookout Mountain in Tennessee.

Heirloom Mums Are Back!

Posted by Hugh on September 8th, 2013

Dendranthemum 'Ryan Gainey'

Bring back heirloom or “old-fashioned” mum varieties into your autumn garden! These varieties tend to bloom very late in the fall and tend to be hardier (USDA hardiness zone 5). Four of the best heirlooms are:

‘Clara Curtis’ – deep pink, daisy-like blooms

‘Mary Stoker’- peachy yellow blooms

‘Sheffield’ (aka ‘Sheffield Pink’) – light pink

‘Ryan’s Pink’ – bright pink daisy blooms with yellow centers.

If you want to grow heirloom mums, you may be purchased plants from e-commerce nurseries on-line in early spring. Plant them in full sun and in moist well-drained soil where they should be nurtured through the summer months. Avoid planting them in areas where street and house lights will shine on them at night. Mums bloom poorly without a full night of darkness.

Feed once at spring planting time with a slow-release fertilizer. As an alternative, feed with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro®, Daniels®, or Jack’s Classic® twice monthly until buds form or through the end of August.

From late spring until mid-July, pinch growing tips back 2-3 inches every two weeks. This will create well-branched plants full of blooms. Do not allow mums to bloom early in the summer, usually a reaction to severe heat or dry soil. Mums should be irrigated during dry spring – summer periods. Mulching helps to conserve soil moisture and protect plant crowns overwinter.

Caveat: some greenhouse growers are also marketing older mums as “heirloom” varieties, popular 30-40 years ago. Some of these varieties are still excellent garden performers. However, some tend to be disease prone or weakly branched.

Fall Is Great Time To Renovate Your Lawn

Posted by Hugh on September 5th, 2013

Core aerator for lawn renovation

Is your lawn nothing but bare spots, thatch, and weeds? Late summer and fall is an ideal period to reduce thatch build-up and repair dead lawn areas. Thatch is composed of old grass clippings, e.g. leaf and stem debris not decomposed. By aerating the soil and removing thatch, you will improve soil water absorption and fertilizer uptake by the grass roots.

Equipment rental outlets in your area have “core aerators” and “spikers” to loosen the compacted soil and remove the unwanted thatch from the surface. Make two passes, criss-crossing the lawn area north to south and east to west. Next, rake up all loosened thatch and compost this organic debris to improve your garden soil in the future.

Since you have shallow-tilled the soil, use this opportunity to disperse grass seed. Most equipment companies rent a slit seeder for this task. Professional lawn companies also provide this service. The equipment tines slice through the soil and drop the grass seed in place. Fertilize and irrigate after seeding as needed.

The invasion of most annual weed grasses, such as crabgrass, goose grass, and foxtail, is over for the year. The cool autumn weather will destroy weedy roots and shoots. Unfortunately, all the seeds that the weed grasses dispersed will germinate next spring and summer. Thickening and improving the health of the home lawn this fall should choked out most weed seeds next spring.

Tending to problem broadleaf weeds such as dandelions, clover, ground ivy, thistles, plantains, and wild garlic is your final step. Broadleaf weeds can be managed by using contact herbicides containing triclopyr, dicamba, and MCPA. Products that contain all three ingredients are recommended.
Caveat: do not use any herbicides until the new grass seeding (or over-seeding) have been mowed at least twice.