Evercolor® Series Of Japanese Sedges

Carex oshimensis ‘Everillo’

Japanese sedges (Carex oshimensis)  are fine-textured variegated sedges that typically grow in a low, grass-like mounded clump to 10-16” tall and wide. This tough colorful sedge was originally found growing in dry woodlands and rocky slopes throughout Honshu Island, Japan. Brownish flower spikes, mostly inconspicuous, form on triangular stems in spring.

Japanese sedge are evergreen across the southern U.S. They’re long-lasting and easy to grow! Evercolor® series of variegated Japanese sedges are the result of breeding from Pat Fitzgerald, at Fitzgerald Nurseries in Kilkenny, Ireland. This collection of seven cultivars (to date)have been introduced so far. They are hardy in zones 6-8, but are being evaluated in USDA zone 5. Plants are evergreen through most of their growing range.

Sedges are grass-like plants, mostly preferring sites with moist, rich soil and in part shade. Once established in one growing season, these sedges tolerate dry shade, accompanied by intermittent watering during dry periods. Foliage colors are richer in partial shade than in full sun. Plants spread are propagate by rhizome division in early spring.

Evercolor® series make exceptional ground covers, as well as bedding and specimen plants. They are planted in mixed containers and window boxes, as billowy plant mounds spilling over the edge into a path or billow up (mound) in a container or window box. Spacing varies with cultivar. Group these sedges as edging along paths as specimen accent plants. Sedges can be planted along the edges of streams or ponds, and in rock gardens.

Evercolor® sedges grow 12 inches high and 12-18 inches in spread in shade or part shade in moist to average soil with good drainage. Water well after planting and regularly until established after one year. Trim back all last year’s growth in late winter. No serious insect or disease problems trouble sedges and are deer resistant

‘Evergold’ is the original variegated form grown noted for its arching, ornamentally attractive foliage. narrow leaves with broad, creamy, yellowish-white center stripe and bordered by thin dark green margins.

‘Everillo’ – a cascading mounding fountain of lime green leaves deepen to yellow-gold later in the summer.

‘Everest’ – more vigorous sport of ‘Evergold’ with green center and crisp snow-white edging.

‘Everlime’ – a mound of leaf blades with deep green centers flanked by lime green margins.

‘Eversheen’ has distinctive lime yellow striped foliage, all in a neat flowing mound.

‘Everoro’ – leaf blades emerge lime-green and turn golden yellow late in the season.

‘Everlite’ – rich green leaf blade edges and broad white center stripe.

Carex ‘Eversheen’ + ‘Purple Pixie’ loropetalum at Dallas Botanical Gardens
Carex ‘Everest’ at Atlanta Botanical Gardens

Update On Coral Bells

Coral bells (Heuchera spp) or alumroot are Tennessee natives. They represent an almost limitless choice of foliage colors, sizes, and forms (USDA hardiness soils 4-9). The biggest chore a gardener has is selecting what cultivar(s) to plant. There is over one hundred to choose that range from grow 8 to 12 inches in height and 1 to 2 feet spread. The coral bell color palette is a landscape designer’s dream plant. Should I mention that some varieties bloom exceptionally well.

‘Apple Spice’ heuchera

Foliage color choices range from lemon yellow to green to nearly black, that may be glossy, matted, or marbled. Spring / summer flowers stand above the foliage. Flower stalks may reach 2 to 3 feet in height. Coral bells are suitable in most any landscape situation from mixed borders, mass plantings, and containers.

In the south, heuchera plants are best in an open woodland setting, but can tolerate a fair amount of morning sunlight. Plant in a humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil. In the north, coral bells grow well in full-day sunlight. In southern gardens, coral bell hybrids with a Heuchera villosa bloodline are longer-lived where heat and humidity are major issues.

Additional choice: Plant breeders have successfully crossed heuchera with its botanical cousin Tiarella (“foam flower”) to produce a more tougher shade plants (written as “x Heucherella”).

‘Caramel’

Northern gardeners have found that a layer of winter mulch helps protect the plant crowns in zones 4 and 5. Heuchera and x Heucherella exhibit good drought tolerance. During the dry portion of the growing season, supply an additional 1- inch of water weekly. Avoid planting heucheras in wet soggy soils.

Heuchera and x Heucherella clumps should be dug up and divided every 3-4 years in early spring. Heuchera and x Heucherella are generally left alone by deer and rabbits. However, when populations are exceptionally high, these critters will eat any plant, including coralbells and their relatives.

In general, heuchera and x Heucherella are not troubled by disease and insect problems. Foliar nematodes may disfigure leaves in late summer. There is no suitable control measures against nematodes. Black vine weevil is reported to be a problem in the Northwestern U.S.

In southern gardens, some cultivars may be damaged by summer dieback identified as  Sclerotinia  fungus. Suggestion: gardeners should talk with one another to select cultivars that perform best in their region. Good air circulation is the best preventative to avoid diseases.

‘Autumn Bride’

Favorites in my Tennessee Garden: ‘Citronelle’, ‘Caramel’, ‘Apple Spice’, ‘Georgia Peach’, ‘Southern Comfort’, Primo® ‘Black Pearl’, ‘Berry Timeless’, and two H. villosa hybrids: ‘Autumn Bride’ and ‘Bronze Wave’.

New Landscape Roses With Exceptional Fragrance

Over a century of rose breeding has rewarded gardeners with so many gorgeous garden roses: hybrid tea, grandiflora, floribunda and shrub types. Rose breeders have concentrated on plant vigor, flower color, disease resistance, and greater numbers of flowers over the growing season. Over the years, floral fragrance has been mostly ignored.

Brindabella® Purple-Prince (Photo courtesy of Suntory)

In the past two years two new rose series have come to market with incredible fragrance along with improved disease resistance.

At Last® rose (Rosa x At Last®) is a highly fragrant, fully-petaled rose with no-spray disease-resistant landscape rose. No spraying is required to enjoy a non-stop display of large, sweetly perfumed sunset-orange blossoms from late spring through frost. Handsome, glossy foliage and a vigorous, rounded habit makes it ideal for use in the landscape or the flower garden (USDA hardiness zones 5-9). Introduced by Spring Meadow Nursery (wholesale).

Brindabella™ Pink Princess (Photo courtesy of Suntory)

Brindabella™ roses is a series of shrub roses from Australia. They exhibit a bushy habit, 3-4 feet  tall and wide and possess excellent disease resistance to black spot and powdery mildew. Their colorful blooms are doubled and highly fragrant. Blooms are produced in flushes from spring into fall, and no deadheading is required. The plants have a bushy, upright and sometimes semi-weeping habit. They reach at maturity, making them ideal for low hedges, spots at the edge of a mixed border, and containers.

Brindabella® roses are low maintenance and vigorous in a small package. They are well suited to home gardens and commercial landscapes. For beauty and fragrance Brindabella roses know few rivals. Roses are selected for their beauty, disease-resistance and vigor. Roses require 6 or more hours of direct sun per day and fertile, reasonably moist soil. They benefit from an occasional feeding during the growing season. Extra hardiness (Zones 4 – 9). Introduced by Suntory Flowers.

Six current Brindabella varieties for both home gardens and commercial landscapes are:

Dawn™ – fragrant salmon colored blooms with hints of apricot.
First Lady™ – lavender pink double flowers 
Purple Prince™ – purple double flowers
Pink Princess™ – frosted pink double flowers
Red Empress™ – crimson red to dark fuchsia double flowers
Touch of Pink™ – pale pink centers & white outer whorled doubled flowers

Plant Awards Of 2021

NGB Perennial of the Year – Monarda (Beebalm)

For 2021, the National Garden Bureau (NGB), the non-profit organization promoting gardening in North America, has announced the five (5) plant classes that will be featured in the 2021 “Year of the” program.

Hosta ‘Rainbow’s End’

Hosta of the Year – ‘Rainbow’s End’small- to medium-sized hosta. It is a sport of Hosta ‘Obsession’ boasts very thick, glossy, canoe-shaped leaves with bright golden streaky centers surrounded by a wide, green/black border.

Perennial Plant of the Year: Calamint (Calamintha nepeta subsp. Nepeta) – a member of the mint family (Lamiaceae), native to southern Europe north and west to Great Britain. Plants grow up to 18 inches tall and wide, and work well as a front border or a rock garden planting.

Calamint + Allium

Calamint – 2021 Perennial Plant of The Year (PPOY)

Too begin a new gardening year, the Perennial Plant Association has named calamint (Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta) as the 2021 Perennial Plant of the Year. One landscaper designer describes calamint as “a cloud of confetti, tiny white flowers”. Plants are dotted with masses of tiny white (or pale blue) flowers from early summer to fall.

White flowers of calamint in summer garden (Photo credit: Midwest Groundcovers)

Calamint is a member of the mint family and a close cousin of catmint (Nepeta faassenii), another PPOY award winner.  Flowers in turn attract loads of small butterflies. Undemanding, this low-maintenance deciduous perennial is native from Great Britain to Southern Europe. It grows best with good soil and air drainage (USDA hardiness zones 5-7).

Calamint grows 15-18 inches tall and wide in full sun and in average garden soil. It exhibits a low mounding or bushy habit, ideal for the front of the border, rock gardens, and more.

It exhibits above average drought tolerance once established. You may shear back lightly if desired to create neater habit or refresh spent blooming stems.  Once a 1-year establishment period, calamint exhibits good drought tolerance.

Calamint (photo courtesy of Midwest Groundcovers)

Calamint stays disease and pest free. It blooms throughout the summer and its aromatic foliage is deer-resistant. It is an ideal companion planted with other late summer blooming perennials as fall anemones (Anemone), asters (Symphorocarpus), obedient plants (Physostegia), turtleheads (Chelone), garden phlox (Phlox paniculata), and ornamental grasses such as ‘Northwind’ switchgrass (Panicum), Little bluestem (Schyzacharium), and muhly grass (Muhlenbergia).

Caring For Thanksgiving/Christmas Cacti

Holiday cacti are not true cactus plants. They are native to tropical rainforests of South America and their care is much different than desert cacti. Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti refers to the time that they bloom in Fall.

Thanksgiving Cacti for sale

Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas cactus (S. bridgesii are available in several flower colors: red, salmon, pink, purple, orange and cream. Most plant hobbiests grow them in hanging baskets, their stem branches gracefully arch over the edges of pots.

Holiday cacti do not have true leaves. The flattened green stem segments (called “cladophylls”) identify the kind of cacti that you are growing and exhibit soft teeth and no spines. Thanksgiving cactus has the most prominent teeth or claws along the edges and also bloom earliest – around the Thanksgiving holiday. Christmas cactus segments have rounded segments.

Reliable blooming Thanksgiving Cactus

Holiday cacti thrive in a well-drained, organic-rich, moist
soil (media) and are placed near a well-lighted window in your home or apartment. Grow them in clay or plastic pots with bottom drainage hole(s) to allow excess water to drain off into a saucer or a shallow tray of gravel. BUT, do not overwater these plants. Their arching segmented stems make them ideal hanging basket plants.

During the active spring and summer growing season, keep the media evenly moist. Over the summer, set the pot outdoors under a shade tree or on a partially shaded deck or patio. In early fall, flower buds will form in response to short day photoperiod and cool outdoor temperatures. Below 45 °F, bring plant(s) indoors and increase watering intervals by 2-3 days longer.

New growth start out from the branch tips in late winter or early spring. Holiday cacti are low constant feeders when actively growing. Fertilize through summer months with any house plant fertilizer twice monthly or a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™ or Peters™ @ one teaspoon per gallon of water. Feed the non-blooming plant once every 4-5 weeks over the winter months.

Holiday cacti do not require annual repotting and will grow potbound for 3-4 years. Prune to reshape the plant during the winter rest period in February. Snip off unsightly foliage at any time of year. Inspect plants periodically for mealy bugs and scale. If bugs are present, spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap, sold at independent garden centers and garden shops.

Anthuriums Thrive in Low Light

Anthurium pots in Biltmore Estates Conservatory, Asheville, NC

Anthuriums are easy to grow houseplants. They have become wonderful plant gifts around the holidays and birthdays. First and foremost, anthuriums are low light tropical plants. They grow best in bright, indirect light, but produce fewer flowers in low light.

Anthuriums sport long-lasting glossy, deep-green leaves and sturdy flowering bract-like blooms. The flowers of an anthurium is actually a
spiky spadix that grow out of the plant stem surrounded by a spathe or modified leaf. Spathe colors vary from red, pink, coral and white. In warm southern areas (USDA zones 10 or higher), plants can be grown outdoors in shady outdoor areas where their bright, heart-shaped blooms stand out.

Do not place anthuriums in direct sunlight as the leaves will sunburn, lose their color or suffer from leaf edge scorch. Anthurium care also demands that the soil drains freely but retains some water. Plants prefer warm temperatures between 70 – 90° F and will stop growing when room temps drop into the low fifties. Room humidity is best above 50%, best achieved by daily spritzing plants or setting pots on wet gravel. As a houseplant, grow in a potting soil designated for tropical plants. In the deep South, plant in a well-drained garden spot or container.

Anthuriums are susceptible to root rot… so too much water can cause the roots to die. Plants do not require much fertilizer. Feed with a weak one-quarter (1/4) strength fertilizer solution once every 3 to 4 months. Feed with water soluble products like Miracle-Gro™ or Peters™ that contain a high amount of phosphorus (P).

Their thick leaves are generally not troubled by insects that chew leaves. Occasionally, sucking insects like aphids, mealy bugs, and mites may feed on plant sap. Catch infestations early and spray a Pyrethrin-based insecticide, a horticultural soap, or oil spray.

Anthuriums need to be repotted every 2-3 years or earlier if water quickly pours through and out the drainage hole. Potbound plants have roots circling around the surface of the potting soil or some roots growing through the drainage holes.

Warning: Anthuriums are poisonous if ingested and the sap may also cause skin irritation.

Repel Deer And Rabbits

Result of Deer browsing

We live at a time that deer population numbers have grown out of control in many areas of the U.S. The internet lists plants that “DEER DON’T EAT”. However, deer have not read these lists, and secondly, a starving deer will eat just about anything. An adult deer may eat 5-6 pounds of plant material each day. Hungry deer can stripped a landscape clean, particularly it contains a plant smorgasbord that they love such as
your fabulous collection of hostas.

In some states ridding deer from a suburban landscape may also be a health concern. Deer harbor ticks that can carry Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever.

Deer can be effectively managed by mechanical means. This typically involves fencing around your property or an entire subdivision. The fence must be tall enough to keep leaping deer out—at least 7 feet high. Fencing is a very expensive and several secondary alternatives are listed below.

Education signage at Longwood Gardens, Kennett Square, PA

Many property owners spray deer repellents on valuable plants.  No repellent is foolproof but several have proven to be effective short term remedies to reduce deer feeding if used regularly and correctly timed.

Basically, there are two ways to keep deer away from your landscape: 1. Deterrents (odor) and mechanical types:

Odor Deterrents their effectiveness varies largely on how quickly the deer adjust to them. Some may work only a few weeks. Examples of deterrents: human hair, decaying fishheads, blood meal, garlic, hot pepper, fabric softener, processed sewage, motel bar soap, and many others.

Deer Retardants And Repellents that keep deer away: many formulations are available at garden centers and hardware stores nationwide.

Plants With Thorny Branches Repel Rabbits and Deer such as hawthorns (Crataegus), barberries (Berberis spp.), Trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliata), and roses (Rosa spp.).

Annual Flowers with aromatic fragrances repel rabbits such as Sagebrush or wormwood (Artemisia), Snapdragon (Antirrhinum), Zinnia (Zinnia), Cardinal flower (Lobelia), Wax Begonia (B. semperflorens), zonal geranium (Pelargonium), Vinca (Catharanthus), Ageratum, Calendula (pot marigold), sunflowers (Helianthus).

Mechanical Deterrents – examples include:
Floodlights
Noise-makers – radios, fireworks, whistles, and others
Reflective objects such as aluminum pie tins, party streamers
Electric wires, fishing line, sprinklers
Fences – including Electrified fences
Grates and Moats

Hungry deer will eat almost anything, even those plants listed on the “won’t eat” list you may find on the internet. Eliminate favorite areas, like small fruit and vegetable gardens or home orchards. Deer in different parts of the country also have different food palates.

Three Common Witchhazel Varieties

Common witchazel

Common witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana) is likely the last native woody shrub or tree to bloom in the northern areas of the U.S. and Canada (USDA hardiness zone 3-8). This autumn blooming deciduous shrub or tree grows in open woodlands, often near a lake or a stream bank. Common witchhazels grow 15-20 feet tall as a large shrub and 25 feet as tree form. Three cultivars are available, and are mostly sold by native plant specialty nurseries in your state or region and on-line.

Clusters of yellow ribbon-like flowers appear along multiple branches from October to December during or after leaf drop. Blooms are fragrant upclose. Medium to dark green circular (ovate-obovate) leaves turn yellow in fall. Rating of the fall leaf color varies from one year to the next. Green seed capsules form the following spring and mature to light brown in late summer.

No serious insects or diseases affect witchhazels. Insect leaf galls, caused by small wasps, may appear infrequently on foliage. Japanese beetles may chew on summer foliage causing minimal damage.

Cultivars: ‘Little Suzie’ (semi-dwarf, 4 to 5 ft. shrub); ‘Green Thumb’ (15 feet; yellow/green variegated leaves; soft yellow flowers; ‘Harvest Moon’ (18 feet high; late blooming lemon yellow (which happens after leaf fall).

Set balled and burlapped (b&b) or container-grown nursery stock in any season of the year. Witchhazels grow best in partial to full sun (minimum 6 hours sunlight) for high flower numbers.

Soil: grows in any soil that is mildly acidic; tolerates wet soggy ground.

Watering: exceptionally drought tolerant after its first year.

When to prune:  prune into multi-stemmed small tree or naturally as a shrub to a desired height and width in late winter or early spring.

In the landscape: Common witchhazels are nature’s last hurrah; long-lived fall blooming native shrub or small tree; three new better cultivars improves its landscape versatility; attract wildlife; bring cut boughs indoors for decoration and floral fragrance.

Hamamelis virginiana ‘Little Suzie’

Is Your Home Ready For Monstera?

‘Obliqua’ monstera

Monstera, aka Swiss Cheese  Philodendron or Split-leaf philodendron (Monstera deliciosa) is a climbing evergreen member of the Arum family (Araceae) native to the tropics of Central America. It may also be grown outdoors in (USDA plant hardiness zones 10-12).

Monstera is grown for its large cutleaf foliage, sometimes perforated, that may grow up to 3 feet long. Some forms with perforated foliage earns it the name “Swiss cheese plant”. It survives in the warm 70°F dry air and low light environs of modern homes and is also a popular office and house plant. Monstera is a tropical vine, but can survive resting temps between 50 to 60 °F over the winter months.

Young gardeners, particularly millennials (born between 1981 to 1996) appear to be highly captivated about this huge house plant. Water pots every 7-10 days and more often if the plant is seriously potbound. Plants are usually grown in large pots and should be occasionally showered down in the tub to provide humidity and to rinse dust off the foliage. Set a leak-proof plastic mat under the plant so as not to damage room flooring and/or carpets.

Fertilize your plant once monthly from late winter (March) to fall (October) with any product labelled for house plants. Reduce watering and do not feed during the winter (November thru February). Remove dust with a damp sponge or paper towel.

Split Leaf Philodendron at a garden center

Water regularly and allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Reduce watering in fall and winter. Mist the leaves periodically to increase room humidity, particularly during the winter months in northern U.S. homes.

If you live in the deep South or in southern California (zones 10-12), outdoor plants may flower and produce edible fruits with a taste similar to pineapple. In warmer climes, monsteras will grow up attached to a yard tree, trellis or a pole made from bark.

Inspect foliage for common pests such as mealybugs, aphids, thrips, scale and spider mites. Most pests can be removed by directing a coarse spray of water to the leaves. Insecticidal soap will also help eliminate troublesome pests.

Warning: Some parts of the plant, particularly the leaves, can cause intense mouth burning, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and minor skin irritation.