What Grows There :: Hugh Conlon, Horticulturalist, Garden Advisor, and Photographer

Recycle Live Christmas Trees

Posted by Hugh on December 30th, 2010

Ready for Recycling

The holidays are over. This year take your live Christmas tree to a designated location to be recycled. Many cities and towns collect trees which are chipped into mulch. The mulch is spread around municipal park trees and street trees. It is utilized for erosion management along stream banks and on steep slopes. Mulch is also distributed to gardeners in the spring.

Communities pile up recycled trees as protective habitats for birds and other wildlife. Whole trees may be deposited into lakes and ponds as fish habitats, particularly for bottom feeders. Along fragile coastal areas trees are used to protect and restore dune areas.

Recycled trees protect newly planted young saplings from severe winter winds and serve as snow breaks in forests and park plantings. They also prevent deer and other varmints from feeding on newly planted tree seedlings.

Regarding trees to be recycled, here are a few caveats:

Remove the stand and all decorations (lights, tinsel, ornaments, plastic garland, all metal items)
Whether recycled or for curbside pickup, don’t wrap tree in a plastic bag

Many local communities advertise special drop-off points or collection times for discarded holiday trees. Check your local newspaper, city website or community recycling center for information. If tree recycling is not offered, maybe you and some friends can help organize one.

Striped Maple For The Shade Garden

Posted by Hugh on November 8th, 2010

This past weekend, while walking in the Smokies Mountains on a rather brisk rainy autumn day, the bright yellow autumn foliage color of striped maple (Acer pensylvanicum) caught my attention. Also called “moosewood”, it is the only snake-bark maple native to the U.S. The greenish bark is marked with dark vertical lines or “stripes”.

The reason that we don’t see this wonderful small maple in our gardens is that it prefers a cool moist woodland environment and does not survive in hot urban habitats. Striped maple grows 15-20 feet in height as a small tree or a multi-stemmed shrub. Leaves are 3-lobed with very small teeth along the leaf margin.

It may be confused with Mountain maple (A. spicatum), also with a 3-lobed leaf, but with coarser teeth along the leaf margin. Both species may grow side by side in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7). This is the southern growing range for striped maple.

Long 4 – 6 inch raceme flowers open in May, yellowish green. Many double-winged seeds (botanists call them “samaras”, kids refer to them as “helicopters”)) may form along the raceme and are ripe by late September for dispersal.

Hardy Camellias Re-Awaken the Autumn Season

Posted by Hugh on November 1st, 2010

‘Winter Star’ camellia (pale pink- photo on left) is the first camellia to bloom in the Conlon garden this fall season. My 8 year-old camellia has 50 or more flowers currently opened and promises to continue blooming through most of November. Other hardy fall blooming cultivars are heavily budded and will open thru mid- December, weather permitting.

A few days later the cultivar ‘Cleopatra’ (rose pink- photo on right) opens and it has bloomed reliably during its 8 year tenure. Camellia experts rate ‘Cleopatra’ as not reliably flower bud hardy below – 5° F. Open camellia flowers are more susceptible to an evening cold snap than tightly closed buds.

Camellia culture is similar to azaleas and rhododendrons. Plant them in half day sunlight (morning exposure preferred) and in an acidic, well-drained soil which has been generously amended with organic matter. Camellias are susceptible to very few disease and insect pests. Irrigate newly planted camellias weekly during extremely dry summer periods and protect them against the harsh winter winds.

Prune most camellias when the spring flowering period is over in late April -early May and before the spring growth flush has begun. This includes the fall bloomers. Primarily prune shrubs to limit their height / spread and to remove dead / damaged branches.

Arkansas Bluestar Great In Spring, Summer and Fall

Posted by Hugh on October 27th, 2010

Blue star (Amsonia hubrichtii) exhibits one of nature’s finest autumn foliar displays. This Arkansas native is a long-lived perennial and prospers here in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7). After its initial year in the garden, amsonia exhibits good heat and drought tolerances.

Its fine textured needle -like foliage is very soft and airy. In the fall the foliage turns a stunning golden yellow and makes a lovely backdrop among other fall flowering perennials, such as asters and mums. Amsonia’s fall color stands apart against a background of tall evergreens.

In late spring (May) small light blue flowers open in abundance. Amsonia thrives in most soils and requires little maintenance throughout the year. Plants grow 3 ft. tall by 3 ft. wide and grow best in full or part sun. Stems tend to flop in shady areas. To maintain shorter more compact plants, prune them back to 6-8 inch height after flowering.

Arkansas blue star was selected the 2011 Perennial Plant of the Year by the Perennial Plant Association.

Plant Lovely Camassia for the Spring Garden

Posted by Hugh on October 18th, 2010

Camassia is native to the mountains and prairies of western North America, where it is called Indian quamash. In earlier times several native North Americans tribes commonly cooked this edible bulb, particularly of species C. quamash.

Camassia tolerates moist wet soils. It may be planted along the edges of ponds or in the front of a low garden border. Tall spikes of starry-shaped blooms appear in mid-to late-spring. From mid- to late spring camassia blooms well either in full sun or partial shade in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7).

Camassia mixes well with other spring and summer perennials, including low ground covers. Overcowded bulbs should be dug up in early fall, divided and replanted. Three noteworthy species are:

Camassia cusickii bearslight blue flowers in May-June. Plant grows 24-32 inches high. Bloom spikes are adorned with multitudinous small star-shaped flowers.
C. quamash (formerly C. esculenta) produces shorter (14-16 inches tall). Deep blue flowers bloom slightly later than the other two species.
C. leichtlinii boasts creamy white flowers that bloom in April and May. Cultivars grow an average of 24-40 inches tall. Flower color varies with ‘Alba’ blooming pure white and ‘Caerulea’ light blue. ‘Sacajawea’ has creamy edged, variegated foliage and white flowers.

Find camassia for sale at leading on-line bulb emporiums such as brentand becky’sbulbs.com and brecks.com

Deadline Approaching for Seeding/Renovating Lawns

Posted by Hugh on October 12th, 2010

Early fall is the “spring-time” for establishing a new lawn or renovating a tired weed infested turf. In the fall most of the weed infestation, particularly from annual pest grasses like crab and goose-grasses, is over.

You have another week (until October 20th) to wind up this chore. To completely seed a sunny area, choose a quality blend (two or more varieties) of tall fescue at a seeding rate of 6-8 lbs. per 1000 square feet of lawn area. Over a partially shaded area seed in red or chewings fescue @ 2-3 lbs. per 1000 square feet.

Use less than half the seeding rate over patch or renovated areas.

October is a traditionally dry month (appears to be the same this year as well here in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7). Days and soil temps are still warm and the new lawn seeding will germinate rapidly. Irrigate lightly, (termed “spritzing”), the newly seeded areas 1-2 times daily. Spread one bale of hay per 1000 square feet over the newly seeded lawn area to reduce daily irrigation and distract birds from dining off your future lawn.

In early November feed with a winterizing 2 -1 -1 ratio of lawn fertilizer, following package directions. Mowing height can be lowered to 1 1/2 inches and a mulching attachment to the mower blade will grind up fallen leaves and debris into mulch.

New Intersectional Peonies Deserve A Wow!

Posted by Hugh on October 9th, 2010

Itoh or Intersectional Hybrid Peonies (Paeonia spp.) represent a huge breakthrough in tissue culture propagation. Inherited from the tree peony is attractive dissected foliage. They are extremely winter hardy like the herbaceous types.

Plants grow two to three feet tall and wide. Strong sturdy stems support the huge flowers which size up to 10″ across. Flowers are single, semi-double or double, and available in a wide range of colors including yellow. Flowers stand upright even in heavy rain and require no staking. Bloom time is longer due to additional flowers being produced on side shoots.

Peonies are long-lived, growing in the same location for decades. They need to be properly nourished annually. Peonies prefer full to part sun (minimum of 6 hours per day), average moisture and well-drained soil which is enriched with compost or mulch annually.

Bare-root peonies should only be planted in the fall as this coincides with the time that their tubers develop most of their feeder roots. Container-grown peonies can be planted at any time. Itoh hybrids demonstrate good resistance to peony blight (Botrytis paeoniae).

Proper planting depth is very important for peonies. The crown should be planted 1½ – 2 inches below soil level. If the eyes have already begun to grow, the new growth may be set slightly above the surface.

Itoh peonies are now available through e-commerce nurseries.

Tips on Planting Peonies

Posted by Hugh on October 6th, 2010

Peonies (herbaceous types) are old-fashioned perennial favorites garnering new attention from 21st century gardeners. Their gorgeous spring flowers stand tall above the lush shrubbery growth.

This fall, plant dormant bare-root divisions of herbaceous peonies purchased from a mail-order nursery or a nearby garden center. Each division must exhibit 3 to 5 eyes (buds). Space plants a minimum of three feet apart.

Good air circulation around plants is important to prevent potential foliar and flower diseases. Avoid windy areas and shelter plants from harsh summer sun and heat in warmer climates (USDA zones 7-9).

Peonies thrive in gardens for 20 or more years. Select a sunny spot with well-drained garden soil and enrich with generous amounts of compost or well-rotted manure. A soil pH between 6 and 7 is ideal. Feed peonies with a slow release fertilizer in early spring the same as you would nourish flowering shrubs.

A critical digging step is the planting depth. Do not cover the growing eyes with more than 1 inch of soil. Setting the new plant too deep may delay or even prevent flowering. Water the newly planted peonies and cover the bed with 2-3 inches of loose ground up leaves or bark mulch. Likely, the peonies will bloom next spring and many years thereafter.

Tree peony culture will be discussed in a future blog.

Goldenrod –Set Off Some Fireworks This Fall

Posted by Hugh on October 6th, 2010

Rough-stemmed goldenrod (Solidago rugosa) grows in low woods, meadows and bogs in the eastern half of North America. ‘Fireworks’ (USDA zones 4–8) has a more compact plant habit than the species. This early blooming cultivar provides a long floral display starting in mid-August and lasting through Thanksgiving, weather permitting.

Flowers spikes are numerous and held in tight clusters on upright stems. The yellow, thread-like, cascading sprays of flowers do attracts many insect pollinators; the pollen does not cause allergies as once believed.

Goldenrods grow best in full sun to light shade. While they prefer moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, established plants flourish in hot, humid and dry summers.

‘Fireworks’ spreads quickly by seed and underground rhizomes and needs to be divide every 2-3 years . This upright herbaceous perennial grows 3 – 4 feet tall and 2 – 2 1/2 feet wide. Remove old flowers to encourage re-blooming. Deadhead or remove spent blooms on ‘Fireworks’ to generate added lateral floral sprays into late October and November. Removal of seed heads reduces re-seeding threat.

Clipping plants back in mid-June by one-half creates a better, well- branched plant, increases bloom head size, and reduces the need of re-staking.

Fall Planting Deadline for Pansies and Violas

Posted by Hugh on September 30th, 2010

To grow pansies successfully, follow this four- step program. Start with:

Purchasing healthy plants
Planting by mid-October or earlier
Watering in the fall and winter as needed
Fertilizing monthly through the winter and spring months.

Shop for vigorous dark green plants at local greenhouses and garden centers. Closely inspect for lots of white growing roots. Don’t buy short or spindly seedlings or those with yellowing leaves. Purchase sturdy 1801 plants (18 – 3 ½” plant cells per tray) or larger pots. Small pansies tend to be more disease susceptible. To avoid deadly root rot diseases in garden soils, move pansy/viola beds every three years.

Over much of the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6-7), the completion date for planting pansies and violas is October 15th. Back up a week or two earlier if planting in gardens at higher elevations. An earlier fall planting date allows plants adequate time to root down into the warm autumn soil. Deeply rooted plants bloom heavier through the fall and winter seasons.

Large sized plants start off quickly and fall-winter flowering is better. Deeply rooted pansies and violas provide better anchorage, which prevents a chance of winter freeze heaving. Once soil temperatures drop below 45°F, plant growth slows and flower numbers decline.

There are many series of pansies and violas to choose in colors ranging from white, yellow, pink, red, and purple shades. Color patterns may be clear, blotched or picotee. Four popular pansy series are Delta®, Matrix®, Panola®, and Majestic Giant ll™. Among the popular viola series are Sorbet®, Rocky™, Penny™ and Velour™.

Prepare the garden bed or containers prior to planting. Pansies should be planted in well-drained, organically rich garden soil or container media mix. An acidic soil pH ranging between 5.2 – 5.8 avoids natural deficiencies in iron and manganese. Adding lime to pansy beds is usually unnecessary unless recommended after a soil test. Pansies thrive in full sun to partial shade. Plants grow more compact and bloom heaviest in full sun.