What Grows There :: Hugh Conlon, Horticulturalist, Garden Advisor, and Photographer

Japanese Maple Selections for Mid-South

Posted by Hugh on July 12th, 2010

Photo: ‘Sango Kaku’ coral bark maple in November

Japanese maple (A. palmatum) offers a vast array of shrub and tree forms of varying heights and leaf shapes. Spring and summer leaves vary from gold, to dark green, to deep red and some color variegation and either cutleaf or dissected forms.

The dissected leaf forms of A. palmatum prefer morning sunlight and protection from winter wind and summer heat. Several hundred cultivars are available through local and mail order sources. Some popular cultivars grwon in the Southern Appalachian region (zones 6 & 7) are:
· ‘Tamuke yama’, ’Inaba Shidare’ (Red Select), and ‘Crimson Queen’ are weeping, red cutleaf forms
· ‘Viridis’- weeping green cutleaf to 20-25 feet
· ‘Seiryu’ – upright green cutleaf to 15 feet
· ‘Bloodgood’ – red palmate leaf to 20-25 feet
· ‘Heffner’s Red Select’ retain its red summer leaf color longer the popular ‘Bloodgood’
· ‘Butterflies’ – white variegated leaf to 12-14 feet
· ‘Sango Kaku’ and ‘Beni Kawa’ – the “coral bark maples” with red twig and trunk bark from mid- fall thru late winter.

"pH Nutrient Creep? -You Nailed It"

Posted by Hugh on July 2nd, 2010

Photo: Foliar iron deficiency on river birch
River birch (Betula nigra) is a popular landscape tree in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6-7). The cultivars ‘Heritage’ and ‘Duraheat’ have made a good native species even better with resistance to aphid and leafhopper insects. However, river birch demands a soil pH which is moderately acid. Why?

Iron is an important minor nutrient element. If the soil pH rises (becomes less acidic), available iron becomes less available to plants. Major landscape trees also affected by “pH nutrient creep” include favorites as pin oak, willow oak, sweetgum and littleleaf linden. An old timey recommendation was putting several nails in the bottom of the hole at planting time.

Modern day solutions include: 1. adding elemental sulfur in late fall to lower the pH and next year’s new foliage should stay green all summer long; OR 2. apply iron supplying fertilizers like Ironite® or Sequestrene®, following package rates accurately; OR 3. feeding acid raising soluble fertilizers like Miracid™ or Hollytone® which contain iron.

Follow any one of these three approaches and summer color will gradually return this summer or next.

Agapanthus- Hardiness Issues

Posted by Hugh on June 25th, 2010

Lovely agapanthus (Lily of the Nile) is native to South Africa and is not reliably hardy in the Southern Appalachian region (zones 6 – 7). Many small tubular flowers comprise each ball -shaped (umbel) flower cluster. Tall sturdy floral scapes rise 1 to 4 feet in height, blooming from late spring into late summer depending on the cultivar. Many cultivars are available in shades of blue, purple and white.
In this region, agapanthus may be dependably grown in outdoor landscape planters which are brought inside in the fall. Agapanthus has multiple cultural issues: cold hardiness, wet wintry soils and hungry voles. Further south in zone 7-b, the crown may be covered over with several inches of leaves or mulch in late fall. The mulch is removed once the threat of spring frost has passed.
Agapanthus produces attractive glossy, strap-like green leaves, which grow from its fleshy tuberous roots. It is propagated by division of the root clumps immediately after flowering. Divide vigorous clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.
Agapanthus prefers a well-drained, fertile, slightly acidic soil. Locate the plant in a warm, sheltered spot under partial sun. Space plants 24 inches apart with its shallow surface roots barely visible on the ground.
Don’t permit agapanthus to dry out. Weekly watering encourages a deep extensive root system. Soggy soil is never good; the leaf tips turn yellow in a waterlogged soil.
Agapanthus requires light constant feeding in the spring and summer months using either water-soluble or slow release fertilizer with a 10-20-20 ratio. In the fall stop feeding and reduce watering to induce plant dormancy.
Pruning is done sparingly, usually to remove damaged or dead foliage before new leaves emerge in the spring.
Mealybug , red spider mite, and voles may become significant pest/critter problems.

"My Maple Tree Is Being Invaded"

Posted by Hugh on June 21st, 2010

photo: Dr. Alan Windham, UT Plant Pathologist

The following is a real query sent to an Extension agent over the phone: “I have thousands of insects on 8 of my 10 maple trees. I fear they will kill my trees, one has already died. The insects huddle together. I am not positive they have wings, they may, but refuse to fly. Their antenna are twice as long as their body; 6 legs; body is 1/4” long, blackish, the body tapers to a pointed rear end. I see multiple groups on my tree branches. Smaller, shorter ones have white lines across body. They are the younger ones.
Barklice also called psocids (Order Psocoptera feed on mold/fungi etc. on the bark). They are harmless and tend to aggregate. There are immatures (without wings) and adult (winged) present. The photo shows the winged barklice adults.
Lesson learned: not all insects are harmful, ready to injure your garden plants. Are you curious what killed the homeowner’s other maple tree last year? I am too, but he cut it down before anyone could diagnose it.
Contact your local county Extension office for gardening assistance.

New Hardier Gardenias

Posted by Hugh on June 18th, 2010

Old fashioned gardenias or cape jasmines (Gardenia jasminoides) are reliably hardy in USDA zones 7-b and 8. Plants require immediate protection when the outdoor temperatures dip below 15 to 20 degrees.

The new hardier cultivars are compact growers, 2-4 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide. ‘Frost Proof’, Crown Jewel™, and Heaven Scent™ are three promising hardy cultivars to try in USDA zone 7-a. All three strut great thick, high gloss, dark green foliage.

Choose a garden location with good air circulation. Morning sunlight and afternoon shade is the rule. Plant gardenias in a well-drained acidic soil, and generously amended with compost. Water plants when dry and never overwater them. Acute leaf drop occurs in poorly drained soil. Fertilize once a year after the heaviest blooming cycle in June has past.

Fully capture gardenia’s fragrance by planting in a garden spot or a container nearby a deck or patio. Individual blossoms generally last a few days. Flower loss may be rapid following a wind and rain storm.

Prune gardenias is immediately after blooming in early July. Remove all dead or unsightly shoots anytime you see them. Additional scattered blooms may occur anytime during the growing season. Late pruning should be avoided in the fall as next year’s flower buds are being set.

White flies and flower thrips are major nemesis of gardenias. Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub™ (soil drench) and horticultural oil (spray) should clean up most pest problems. Always read the pesticide label before using!

Smaller Southern Magnolias

Posted by Hugh on June 13th, 2010

The grand Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora) thrives here in the southern Appalachian region and along the Eastern seaboard as far north as Boston (USDA zones 6-9). Most homeowners do not have room enough to grow this 60-70 foot arboreal aristocrat.

Compact forms are available that need less than half the space. The ivory white flowers are fragrant and 25% smaller than full sized trees. Blooms open individually, not all at once, from late May thru the summer months. The most popular compact cultivar is ‘Little Gem’. It grows to a height and width of 40 x 35 feet in 25-30 years. Others include ‘Hasse’ (45 x 20 feet) and Teddy Bear® (30? x 20 feet).

The newest introduction is ‘Kay Parris’ with exquisite polished green wavy leaves and mahogany brown beneath. The parents of ‘Kay Parris’ are ‘Little Gem’ and ‘Bracken’s Brown Beauty’. As a young tree, ‘Kay Parris’ exhibits an upright, narrow (columnar) form, rating it a great evergreen tree for a small garden space.

Southern magnolia is planted from late winter through early fall in well-drained, organically amended soil in a full to partially (6 hours minimum) sunny area. Tree rarely has disease and insect issues.

Squash Vine Borer

Posted by Hugh on June 10th, 2010

photo credit: Dr. Alan Windham, Univ. of TN Extension Plant Pathologist

Squash vine borer (SVB) damages squash, gourds, and pumpkins. Cucumbers and melons are usually not attacked by the SVB.

The adult SVB is a clear-winged moth. The 1 inch long adult moth is commonly mistaken for a wasp. Its abdomen is ringed with orange and black. Females lay oval brownish eggs on plants in late May or early June. The borers tunnel into stems near the soil and feed on the plant. Excrement is visible near points of entry on the stem when larvae are feeding. Heavy feeding causes the infested vine(s) to wilt and die.

Select a variety which is SVB tolerant. Also, cover emerging plants with row covers to reduce possible damage. Remove row covers when the plants begin to bloom to permit insect pollination. Stagger new plantings every 2-3 weeks to avoid SVB populations.

Some gardeners cover the main stem with pantyhose to prevent egg laying by adults. Infested stems can be split and larvae removed. Add a spade-full of moist soil over damaged stems to encourage new root growth. Insecticides must be applied prior to borers entering into the stem.

Insecticides containing carbaryl, bifenthrin, spinosad, or permethrin are effective against SVB. Apply an insecticide every 5-7 days. Please read the pesticide label before applying.

Indian Pink is a Summer Sizzler

Posted by Hugh on June 6th, 2010

Indian pink (Spigelia marilandica) is a strikingly beautiful native wildflower here in the southern Appalachian region (USDA zone 6 -7). Beginning in late May, bright red tubular flowers flare open, crowned by five sharply pointed pale yellow reflexed lobes (see photo).

Indian pink prospers around rich moist open woodland areas. The well-drained soil should have a pH range between 6.5 to 7.0. Generously amend a partially sunny site with compost or peat to stimulate plant vigor and repeat flowering. Healthy plants grow 12-18 inches tall. Spigelia leaves attach directly to the main stem without petioles.

Indian pink is slow growing at first, taking two to three years to reach maximum floral potential. Planting five or more in a clump creates a showier display. Eventually, a healthy grouping will colonize. Bloom time is lengthened by swift removal of the old spent flowers.

Indian pink often blooms for a brief second interval in late summer when soil moisture is plentiful. Plant debris mostly disappears before winter sets in. The brightly colored flowers attract numerous pollinating insects and hummingbirds. No disease and pest problems are observed.

Hardy Rosemary

Posted by Hugh on May 30th, 2010

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) ‘Arp’ is winter hardy in southern Appalachian (USDA hardiness zones 6-b and 7-a) gardens for two decades , including some very cold winters. Other rosemary cultivars which have succeeded include ‘Athens Blue Spires’, ‘Hardy Hill’, and ‘Salem’.

Locate a site with a “micro-climate” advantage such as next to a driveway or along the southside of a red brick home or a dark colored garage wall. Here winter temperatures vary by a few degrees warmer. Dark asphalt pavement absorbs and retains heat. Next to large bodies of water, such as a swimming pool and a water garden, may also be slightly warmer in the winter.

Plant rosemary in well-drained soil and in full direct sunlight. With rosemary and other semi-tender herbs, winter kill may also be caused by wet, soggy soil rather than cold.

‘Arp’ matures a handsome woody shrub with fine textured foliage. It grows 3-4 feet tall and wide, and blooms in early spring. The blue flowers are small and attract lots of insect activity.

Dreaded Rose Rosette Disease

Posted by Hugh on May 24th, 2010

No rose is resistant to this deadly virus disease. Symptoms of rose rosette disease (photo) vary greatly from the species or cultivar planted. Leaves may be small, distorted, and exhibit a conspicuous red pigmentation. Diseased canes may also be noticeably thicker than others around them, and/or may grow in a spiral pattern.

Multi-flora roses, a noxious shrubby weed, are most susceptible and often are first to contract the disease. Very small eriophyid mites transmit rose rosette disease by feeding off the plants which are already infected. Mites transmit the virus to healthy roses nearby. Control measures must be rapid and decisive.

Insect spraying will help. Spray roses with Sevin (carbaryl) insecticide for partial control of the eriophyid mite. Eliminate multi-floral roses within 300 feet from any rose plantings, preferably from all surrounding yards and gardens.

Prune out all diseased and suspected canes. Remove all prunings immediately from the property. If symptoms reappear on new re-growth canes, remove the bush from the property. When planting roses, space them far enough apart that foliage does not touch neighboring plants.