Carolina All-Spice Sweetshrub Or Bubbybush

What’s in a name? Sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus) is one of our finest native shrubs. Its waxy, reddish brown flowers emit an enticing fruity fragrance. The 2″ wide flowers bloom starting in late April, and sporadically June through August.

Many gardeners in the southern Appalachians (plant hardiness zone 6 -8) call it “bubbybush” or “sweet bubby”. In the 1800’s, long before deodorants, women used the fragrant flower as a perfume to mask body odor. They would hide the tough, almost indestructible flowers under their dresses, in their pockets, even pin them on their clothes.

Sweet shrub is easy to grow. Plant in fertile, well-drained garden soil and in sunny to partly shaded landscape. It flowers best in full sun and stay dense and tight. The beautiful deep green leaves measure 5-6″ long, ovate, and exhibit a nice yellow fall color and persist into November. The large, ‘urn-shaped’ fruits mature in October.

The cultivar ‘Athens’ has yellow fragrant flowers. New Asian/American hybrids from the North Carolina State University’s plant breeding program are ‘Hartledge Wine’ (red, non-fragrant flowers) and most recent introduction ‘Venus’ (creamy white, fragrant flowers).

The Best of the Coralbells- So Far!

Photo: Heuchera villosa natural purple leaved form

The Heuchera x villosa coralbell revolution has been upon us for nearly a decade. Many new hybrid coralbells have been introduced. This southern Appalachian native coralbell exhibits exceptional heat, humidity and drought tolerance. You find hairy alumroot growing in dry shade and partially sunny areas.

This is a report card on the hairy alumroot hybrid cultivars. Listening to other gardeners and observing their performance in my garden, ‘Mocha’ (dark coffee colored foliage), ‘Citronelle’ (bright yellow) and ‘Caramel’ (dark peachy yellow), have earned my highest recommendations among the colorful large foliage types.

I continue to watch ‘Tiramisu’, with its medium-sized, yellow with red splotched leaves. It has yet to impress me. However, gardening friends urge me to wait another year “before throwing in the trowel”.

I also grow the pale green leaf, mid-summer blooming ‘Autumn Bride’. A cloud of tiny white flowers hovers over the plant foliage in August. I see it used en masse as a late summer bedding plant in public gardens around the Philadelphia, PA area.

Spring Lawn Care Tips

April is time for a minor lawn renovation. All lawn chores should be completed before April 18th, here in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6a – 7a). If you are planning a major lawn renovation, hold off until September.

Following a rough winter, fertilizing is a positive first step for rapid green recovery and filling in dead spots. Steps for over-seeding small dead areas: 1) light soil tilling with a rake, 2) fertilizing, and 3) seeding.

Over the lawn, apply a crabgrass preventative and again 3 months later (early July). Timing is crucial. When yellow flowering forsythia is passed blooming, crabgrass seedlings have germinated and most preventatives don’t work. Do not apply a crabgrass preventative to recently seeded areas.

Dandelion, henbit, chickweed, wild garlic and other broadleaf weeds are sprayed on non-windy days. Choose a day when air temperatures remain above 60°F for 6 hours or more.

Chart your annual mowing height through the year: first mowing at 1 ½ inches high; after first cut at 2 ½ inches until Memorial Day; during summer at 3 inches; and after Labor Day, back to 2 ½ inches.

Eastern Tent Caterpillar (crabapple, cherry, peach)

photo credit: Dr. Frank Hale, Entomologist, University of Tennessee
The Eastern tent caterpillar is frequently the first insect that I receive calls about in the spring. Eggs overwinter on wild cherry trees and move on long silken treads to tasty landscape tree foliage nearby. Larvae and caterpillars consume lots of leafy matter over the next month.

Dirty white webs form in limb crotches beginning in late March when wild cherry leaves are developing. Larvae leave the web on warm sunny days to consume leaves of ornamental crabapple, peach and cherry. They remain in the web during cloudy or rainy weather.

Large landscape trees are damaged temporarily, and new foliage grows back rapidly. However, newly planted or young trees may lose most of their 1-2 year old foliage and have no reserves to grow new shoots.

In March and April, many different insecticides are labeled including horticultural oil, Sevin (Carbaryl), Bt (Dipel), Orthene, Malathion, and insecticidal soap. Always read the pesticide label for all precautions. For example, the label on Orthene states “may cause foliar injury to flowering crabapples”.

Awesome Ornamental Peach

Photo is an 18- year old ornamental peach tree in Columbia, Tennessee. This tree blooms with 4 different colors bright pink, pink, peppermint, white each year. The tree is full of bloom and obviously well-pruned and cared for.

It may have been a “5 in 1” grafted tree that the home gardener purchased years ago. Ornamental peach is very challenging, susceptible to numerous diseases and insect pests. I congratulate the homeowner for keeping the tree healthy all these years.

Winter Hardy Camellias

pictured: ‘April Remembered’

Growing camellias in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zone 6-a) is no longer a dream. As many as 40 cultivars of winter hardy camellias to -15 °F are now available. Flower colors range from white, many shades from pink, and red. Hardy cultivars possess big bloom size, long flowering period (fall or spring), and lustrous evergreen foliage.
Start with these outstanding cultivars. For spring blooming, plant ‘Pink Icicle’ (pink semi-double), ‘April Tryst’ (dark red anemone) and ‘April Remembered’ (pink semi-double). Dependable in the fall garden are ‘Winter’s Star’ (pale pink single) and ‘Winter’s Interlude’ (pink anemone).

The culture of camellias is similar to azaleas, rhododendrons and hollies. Plant them on the east or north side of your home or nearby large shade trees, protected from direct summer sunlight and drying winter winds.

Add generous amounts of organic compost, leaf mold or sphagnum peat to maintain an acidic soil pH. Feed shrubs every two months in spring and summer, using either water-soluble Miracle Gro™ or Schultz™ brand fertilizer.

Established shrubs are very drought tolerant after two years, needing water when rainfall is very low. Camellias enjoy relief from most pest problems that plague them further south.

Golden Hakonegrass Lights Up The Shade Garden

Light up dark areas in your shade garden with this wonderful golden ornamental grass from Japan. Golden hakonegrass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’) grows 12-18 inches tall and 18-24 inches wide with a mounding cascading form.
Very thin green stripes (veins) flow the length of the ½ inch wide golden leaf blade. The cool nights in the fall adds a pink to reddish tinge to the blades before all dies back for a long winter’s nap. Tiny, relatively inconspicuous, floral spikes appear for a short time in late summer.
Golden hakone prospers in moist humus-rich, well-drained soil. Contrarily, it grows poorly in compact heavy clay soils. Hakone prefers a partially shaded garden spot, receiving 2 hours of early morning or 1/2 day of dappled sunlight.
Golden hakone grows slowly, spreading by stolons and rarely trespasses spaces occupied by neighboring hosta, astilbe, heuchera and other companions in the shade garden.
Golden hakone is rarely bothered by disease or insect pests and is not troubled by deer. ‘Aureola’ hakone grass was selected the Perennial Plant of the Year in 2009.

Viburnums for Privacy Screening

photo: the clean summer foliage of ‘Allegheny’ viburnum

Must you plant an evergreen hedge when a semi-evergreen flowering shrub is fine for the task?
Leatherleaf viburnum hybrid cultivars ‘Allegheny’ and ‘Willowwood’ are 60% evergreen, dropping their foliage very late in autumn in U.S.D.A. zones 6 and 7-a. ‘Willowwood is preferred over ‘Allegheny’ in areas of zone 6 and 7 where powdery mildew disease may be a problem.
Prague viburnum (Viburnum pragense) is the only “true” evergreen viburnum. It possesses lustrous dark green foliage year-round and grows to 9-10 feet. Its height is tall enough to become a beautiful privacy screen and noise barrier from the neighbors and traffic.
All three viburnums are excellent growers. They have a distinct advantage over most conifer species used in privacy screening. These lovely viburnums flower in late spring and early summer, something the conifers don’t offer.

Best of Perennial Veronicas for Gardens

Veronica spicata ‘Royal Candles’ (not evaluated in CBG study)

Chicago Botanic Garden (CBG) has published the results of a 10-year study of speedwells (Veronica and Veronicastrum) in its 33rd issue of Plant Evaluation Notes, “A Comparative Study of Veronica and Veronicastrum“.
Seven speedwells received good-excellent ratings for their overall performance, including Veronica ‘Fairytale’, V. ‘Giles Van Hees’, V. austriaca ‘Ionian Skies’, V. longifolia ‘Blue John’, V. spicata ‘Baby Doll’, V. spicata ‘Ulster Blue Dwarf’, and V. wormskjoldii. These top-rated speedwells exhibited strong growing and excellent flower production throughout the evaluation period. The lack of any serious pest or disease problems, along with good winter survivability, contributed to their high ratings. Additionally, 18 taxa received four-star good ratings for similarly strong performances.
Speedwells are generally easy to grow and prefer sunny locations in moist, well-drained soils. Plants grown in less light will not bloom as profusely and may become lax or open in habit. Crown loss or plant death may occur in wet soil conditions in winter.
Many speedwells require a midsummer shearing after the first bloom to promote a healthy new basal foliage and to encourage late summer flowering. Deadheading of spent blooms produces many new bloom spikes later in the summer. By selecting the best cultivar(s), you should be able to avoid potential foliar diseases, including powdery mildew, downy mildew, leaf spots, and foliar rust.
Generally, plant disease pressure is more severe here in the Southern Appalachian Region than in the Midwest. Read the entire 8 page CBG report (Issue 33, 2010) authored by Richard G. Hawke

Growing Spuria Iris Worth The Challenge


photos courtesy of Iris City Gardens

Jimmy Turner, Dallas Arboretum horticultural guru, gave me this idea. Growing spuria iris in the Southern Appalachian region can be quite challenging. Hardy to USDA zone 5, spurias are dormant (asleep) during our usually hot, dry summers. A wet summer is a real “downer” for spurias.
Spuria irises bloom two weeks after the popular tall beard iris. They grow and flower best under full sun. Spurias are not choosy about soil type and pH. Bloom stalks can reach 4+ feet in height in a good garden soil.
Foliage dries up in the heat of summer, very natural for spuria iris. Gardeners should not attempt to revive them with irrigation. Autumn showers revive plants. Once growth re-starts, plants hate to dry out.
Spurias need one year to become established. Space plants at least 3 feet apart. Divide them every 5 years. Natural rainfall in our region is usually plentiful. The easiest way to kill spurias is to mulch and overwater them.
You may purchase spurias from several mail order nurseries or local nurseries which specialize in iris. Personal shopping emporiums include Iris City Gardens in Nashville, TN and Heritage Gardens in Greeneville, TN.