Hart’s Tongue Fern (Asplenium scolopendrium) is an evergreen fern with a tropical look. This glossy green native fern with elegant, smooth, unserrated edged fronds that are 8 -16 inches in length. Hart’s Tongue is native to Europe, North Africa, the Middle East, and Central Asia. Disjunct North American populations are found in parts of Ontario Canada, New York, Michigan, Tennessee, and Alabama. and has been listed “U.S. federally threatened” since 1993.
Hart’s Tongue Fern Hart’s fern makes an unusually beautiful plant. Its natural habitat is in moderate shaded, moist, lush deciduous woodlands. You’ll find its roots embedded in moist soil within small cracks in large rocks or rock fissures (USDA hardiness zones 5-9). It thrives in a humus-rich, well-drained soil. Raised spore sacs form on underside of fronds in late spring.
Planted in a garden/landscape environment, lush green hart’s tongue fern grows slowly, yet requires little attention apart from annual mulching and tidying in spring. It tolerates both light to heavy soils but does not handle waterlogged soil and declines from root rot. Be certain the soil does not become waterlogged or surface compacted.
While a majority of ferns prefer growing in slightly acidic soil, Hart’s Tongue prefers an alkaline to slightly acidic soil; optimum pH range is 6.8 – 8.5. In containers use a potting mixture with a high humus level that retains moisture, is well aerated, and drains adequately good drainage. It prefers growing in chalky limestone soils- principally high levels comprised of calcium carbonate. Add small handful of dolomitic limestone (DL) to the planting hole or 1-2 tablespoons of DL to ferns growing in containers.
Hart’s Tongue Fern on a garden patio setting; plant spends the colder months indoors as a house plant
Hart’s Tongue Fern has been awarded the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM) from The Royal Horticultural Society.
Despite his retirement from NC State University, Dr. Werner, the redbud breeder of varieties like ‘Flamethrower’ and ‘Ruby Falls’, has introduced two more new varieties. Both cultivars are the beginning of the new compact redbud series. The two newest redbud releases from NCSU are ‘Pom Poms’ and ‘Amethyst’ are two new compact redbud trees. (Zone 5-9). They are ideal for smaller gardens and patios.
‘Amethyst’ redbud (photo supplied by Dennis Werner)
Amethyst™ Redbud (‘NC2017-6’ PP #35,279) is a stunning ornamental tree that has vibrant purple flowers in early spring and compact tree size. Leaves are purple, smaller, and heart-shaped. It is a cross of Ruby Falls x Ace of Hearts F2. It reaches 8 to 10 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide. deep green color in summer, turning yellow in fall. This seasonal change in leaf color adds to its ornamental appeal.
Its small size and its burgundy foliage provide the feel of a Japanese maple with the added bonus of an early spring bloom of violet-pink flowers before the colorful leaves emerge. Amethyst redbud is being marketed by Monrovia Nursery and Star Roses under the Garden Gems™ logo.
White Pom Poms™ Redbud is a cross between ‘Dwarf White’ (white single flowers), and ‘Flame’ (double purple flowers). This tree was then backcrossed with ‘Royal White’ (single white flowers) that results in a tree with uniformly double, white flowers. Flowering typically lasts 7 to 10 days after the usual flowering time of redbud. Leaves remain attractive throughout the growing season and show very limited leaf spot or necrosis.
Cercis ‘White Pom Poms’ (Dr. Dennis Werner photo)
‘White Pom Poms’ blooms in early spring with white double flowers before the heart-shaped green leaves emerge. The tree may reach 12 feet in height in 10 years and is a great companion to other redbuds. Flowers are white, fully double, with up to 25 petals per flower (5 petals is typical for redbud). Flower production is heavy. Flowers are female sterile, hence no fruits (no seed pods).
Redbuds will grow in full sun to part shade, are pH tolerant and do well in average moist well-draining soils. Redbuds generally don’t transplant well — so choose your site carefully. Both cultivars are a perfect focal point for small gardens or when potted on a patio.
Deciduous leaves remain attractive throughout the growing season and show very little leaf spot or necrosis, often problematic for redbuds in N.C.
Both redbud cultivars are great for small yards as a specimen, accent or understory trees.
Some flowering bulbs, corms, and tubers are early-bloomers. With the start of calendar year January 2026, several days in the 50’s and 60’s have been forecasted. In our garden, flowers of three perennials are beginning to poke through the soil. That’s besides the early daffodils which are always early-risers but hold off blooming until late February and March. Below, these three are now emerging and December snow and winter air temperatures so far have not deterred them.
Lenten Roses (Helleborus spp. and hybrids), particularly those called “Christmas rose”, are evergreen perennials that begin flowering in late December here in zones 6b and 7. Their colorful flowers peak out through their also new foliage. In more northerly climes, Christmas roses may wait until mid-February, the traditional start of the Lenten period. Flowers appear very rose-like, some with double or bi-colored petals (USDA hardiness zones 4-9). Hellebores grow best in partial to full shade areas, and grow up to 24 inches tall and wide. For a showier floral display, clip off the old basal foliage back between Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Galanthus (snowdrops) naturalized
Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are early-rising bulbs often emerge while snow is blanketing the ground to provide a breath of fresh air for winter-weary gardeners. It’s not unusual to see snowdrops erupt through the frozen ground. During mild winters, snowdrops may flower in mid-January, although February or March is the more common period. Left undisturbed, these tiny bulbs multiply (naturalize). (Zones: 3-9). In early autumn, plant bulbs infull sun to partial shade beneath deciduous trees. Space bulbs 6-8 inches apart. Depending on variety, snowdrops grow 6 -12 inches tall and 4 – 6 inches wide.
WinterAconite (Eranthis hyemalis)
Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) is one of the earliest flowering tubers to bloom in USDA hardiness zones: 3-7, often appearing alongside snowdrops below. In early autumn, plant winter aconite 2 to 3 inches deep and about 3 inches apart. Winter aconite warms up the late winter landscape with 3 to 4 inches tall cheery yellow buttercup-like flowers. Bulbs freely multiply and naturalize freely by seed and bulb division. Grow in full sun to part shade with expected flowering time in February to March.
Amaryllis is native to Cape Province in South Africa, and as with other bulbs native to this region. They benefit from a period of dry dormancy before reblooming again. In the autumn season, many temperate zone gardeners bring potted amaryllis bulbs indoors and dry out potting soil to induce dormancy. By withholding water, amaryllis leaves yellow, shrivel, brown, and die.
Once leaves die back, move the pot(s) to a cool dry location for its 8-12 weeks dormancy period. Cool basements and garages are ideal storage areas. You may remove the bulb from soil and place it into a paper bag. Allow your plant to remain in this location for 3-4 month. You may opt to repot the bulb to a slightly wider pot if desired. Amaryllis bulbs don’t mind being pot bound. Once the potting soil (potting media) dries out, water sparingly and choose to restart the bulb. Simply supply water, but do not overwater the bulb to avoid rotting. Generally, it takes 6 to 12 weeks for blooms to initiate.
The flower bud will emerge first, followed by the green strap-like leaves. Extend floral life by placing the plant in a cool location and bright daylight. Rotate the pot weekly to direct the bloom stalk to grow tall and straight. Otherwise, stalk will angle toward the sunlight or another available light source.
After flowering, cut the flowering stem(s) off. Once leaves appear you should feed amaryllis with a water-soluble fertilizer every 4 to 6 weeks. When danger of frost has passed, set your bulb outside in a partly shady location. At this point you can fertilize it every 3 to 4 weeks until late July.
Quick troubleshooting tips:
Dormant period (8-12 weeks); cool in a refrigerator or unheated garage above freezing.
Dormancy temps around 35-45 °F are best.
Outdoor growing period in spring/summer in morning sunlight/afternoon shade.
Fertilize plant monthly during the spring/summer growing period
Cliviaminiata blooming in March. (houseplant grown indoors)
Chase away any winter blahs with colorful flowers of clivia (Clivia miniata). This sub-tropical plant should brighten your home. Start by purchasing a plant already budded or in flower. Clivia lives a long time as a potted house plant. An older plant will grow 2 to 3 feet tall and wide. Grow in a large, wide-based clay, ceramic or plastic pot that won’t tip over.
Clivias are native to South Africa and belong to the lily family (Liliaceae). This house plant is easy to care for and can be triggered to re-bloom every year as do amaryllis or holiday cactus. Its wide, strap-like dark evergreen leaves stay blemish-free and gorgeous when not in bloom. Older basal leaves will eventually age, turn yellow, wither away, or easily removed.
Outdoors in the spring and summer months, clivias flourish in bright daylight, but not in direct sunlight. From mid-May thru mid-September set plant(s) under a shade tree (USDA zones 6 and 7). Bring tender clivia back indoors in early autumn when nighttime temps dip below 40°F. Once indoors, water the plant every 7-10 days.
In November, encourage blooming by initiating a dry period lasting 3 months long until mid-February. During this induced “dry period”, if leaves show signs of wilting, supply just enough water to perk them up. Clivia’s fleshy roots store water like a sponge, which enables them to tolerate drought. If available, move the plant into a cool 50-55°F room.
Proper annual care will reward you with one or more bouquets of lily-like flowers borne in tall sturdy stems. By early March one or more thick flower stalk should emerge near the plant base, through the thick foliage. Remove the old floral stalk at the base when the flowers fade and wilt.
Flower colors, either orange or yellow, and currently available. New varieties are being developed by plant breeders around the world including Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, PA.
‘Longwood Debutante’ clivia
An orange-colored flower variety is commonly sold in plant shops, but other varieties are becoming more available for purchase. Other varieties include:
‘Citrina’ – yellow-flowered cultivar
‘Longwood Debutante’ – off-yellow petals
‘Appleblossom’ -soft pink and peach-hued petals
‘Rabbit’ -bright red-orange outer tepals and creamy yellow centers
During the winter months, clivia prefers direct light from a bright north or eastern exposure window. Inside a grow room or greenhouse, do not expose to long periods of direct sunlight. During the spring and summer, clivia needs regular watering, but allow partial dry down between waterings. Do not mist the foliage or keep the potting medium constantly wet, as this may cause rot and promote leaf diseases.
In the spring and summer, regular watering and feeding are the rules. Once clivia has bloomed, fertilize monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer (20-20-20 or equivalent) mixed at 1/2 the recommended label rate. Do not fertilize in autumn and winter months.
Clivia bloom best when they are pot-bound. They can go 3 to 5 years without repotting. Inspect roots for any damaged or rotting roots. Repotting can be performed any time after flowering. Set each division in a new 10-inch or wider pot containing a good peat-bark-perlite potting medium that drains well.
Snake plants (Dracaena trifasciata) are one of the most popular houseplants and for good reason. It is incredibly drought-tolerant, able to go for weeks without water, and in low and medium lighting conditions. A majority of species are native to Western and Southern Africa and the Asian subcontinent.
D. trifasciata ‘Bantel’s Sensation’
They are known under a number of names, including mother-in-law plant, mother-in-law’s tongue, and Sansevieria. Depending on variety, plants grow 2-5 feet tall. They tolerate low light (ideal for growing in office buildings) but will thrive in bright light, once acclimated, and send up new leaves and develop stronger variegation.
Snake plants are available in dozens of varieties and cultivars, with stiff sword-like leaves that are colored in bands of green, yellow, and cream. Sansevieria (the former genus) is a hard to kill house plant. That means it need very little attention. If you are an intense house plant enthusiast, sansevierias may be a plant to avoid.
Grow them as you would a succulent plant. Soil should have porous drainage mix containing peat/perlite/aggregate sand. Snake plants prefer a loose, well-drained potting soil mix. They do well in sandier soil which makes all-purpose cactus potting soil a good choice. Feed your snake plant monthly in spring thru fall with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™ or Peters™ diluted to half strength. Do not fertilize in winter.
Snake plants grow best with 8 – 10 hours of indirect sunlight or a few hours of early-morning direct sunlight. Too much direct sun causes may damage the leaves. Snake plants tolerate some shade, but lack of light will eventually stunt growth and dilute foliage color.
Water your snake plant when the soil has completely dried out, being sure to water deeply every 10-14 days. If leaves are brittle and dry, water immediately. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill a snake plant. Too much water or letting the plant sit in water will rot its root system. Yellowing leaves are an early sign of overwatering.
Snake plants grow best in warm temperatures between 70 °F and 90 °F. Keep plants away from cold drafty windows. They won’t tolerate frost, and prolonged exposure to less than 50 °F can kill the plant. They’ll do fine with average household humidity between 30-50%.
Set snake plants in bright, indirect light. Almost any window in your home is okay. Generally, water plants when the surface pot soil looks dry or every 7-21 days. Wilting leaves or leaf death is a symptom of overwatering and/or insufficient light.
Snake plants are easy to propagate by cuttings or by division. Prune snake plants during the growing season to encourage new growth. Remove tall leaves and damaged unattractive leaves at any time with an x-acto knife.
Repot your plant(s) every 3-5 years, usually at the start of spring. It may be getting unstable (tipsy). Wide, shallow pots with plenty of drainage holes are the best. Repotting is best performed in spring.
Snake plants can be grown outdoors in spring and summer as long as outdoor temps hold reliably above 50 °F. Bring plant(s) indoors back in autumn. Snake plants occasionally may bloom. Their creamy white, tubular-shaped flowers are fragrant.
Dust the leaves every few weeks and inspect for insects and rotting decaying leaves. Snake plants are susceptible to these houseplant pests—scale, spider mites, mealybugs and whiteflies. Wipe the plant with a swab or soft paper towel dabbed in a 50:50 solution of 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and water. An alternative approach is to treat pest infestations with Neem Oil.
D. trifasciata ‘Laurentii’ snake plant
Some Snake Plant Varieties:
D. trifasciata ‘Hahnii’ (bird’s nest snake plant) grows 6 inches high with rosette form composed of densely packed leaves.
D. angolensi, called “African Spear”, is cylindrical snake plant has round, stiff leaves several feet long. arching outward from a central crown.
D. trifasciata ‘Laurentii’ is a variegated cultivar with creamy yellow leaf margins and grows 15-18 inches tall.
D. trifasciata ‘Bantel’s Sensation’ grows 3-feet tall bearing narrow leaves with white vertical stripes.
Daphniphyllum on campus of East Tennessee State University in Johnson City, TN
Daphniphyllum macropodium is a rounded understory broadleaf evergreen shrub or small tree native to forested lands in Japan, Korea and China. Daphniphyllum, aka “false daphne”, is recognized for its attractive foliage and unique flowering habit. It stands out for its bold rhododendron-like leaveage. It typically grows to 15-25 feet tall in cultivation; add on 5-10 feet if plant is growing in its happy place.
Long-petioled, oblong to oblanceolate, leathery leaves, 5-10 inches long by 1-3 inches wide, are arranged in closely spaced spirals at the stem ends similar to the leaves on some rhododendrons. Very prominent are its showy purplish red petioles. The deeply glossy deep leaves above and a glaucous light green beneath are outstanding.
Daphniphyllum is dioecious, either male or female on individual shrubs/trees. Flowers are mostly inconspicuous. Female shrubs bear blue ellipsoid fruits on numerous rachis that radiate from under the whorled leaves. In May-June non-showy apetalous flowers in axillary racemes bloom from the leaf axils on previous year’s growth. Male flowers are purple-pink and female flowers are pale green. Female flowers, once pollenized and fertilized, give way to ellipsoidal blue-black drupe fruits (to 1/3” long). Male shrubs/trees do not produce fruit.
Winter hardy to USDA Zones 7-9, daphniphyllum is best grown in moist, rich, sandy-humus-rich, slightly acidic, well-drained soils in part shade. Shrubs may survive Zone 6 winters if sited in a sheltered location and mulched in winter. The soil should be kept uniformly moist, particularly when grown on full sun sites where leaf scorch may be a potential problem. Propagation is mostly by seed.
Unfortunately, much of the ellipsoid-shaped fruits are hidden within the foliage; the brick-red fruits are quite showy. Over a cold winter night, leaves may droop down severely and fully recover by late the following morning. This climatic response is called “epinasty”. Dapniphyllum foliage is attractive in decorative seasonal arrangements.
Variegated leaf daphniphyllum at Bill and Linda Pinkham’s Landscape near Virginia Beach, VA
This humongous shrub might serve as a great tall shady screen on large properties. No disease and pest problems have been reported to date. Leaf scorch may occur in full sun. Deer tend to mostly avoid daphniphyllum. Utilize as a single specimen or plant several in groups if fruit and viable seed are desired).
Plant availability is mostly limited to e-nurseries online. The variegated leaf form (pictured above) is produced in very small numbers.
Hoya publicalyx in the Biltmore Estates Conservatory in Asheville, NC
Hoyas, also called wax plant, porcelain flower, honey plant, common waxflower, are an Asian native plant (epiphyte) with fragrant, low-maintenance with lovely flowers that grow in a ball-shaped cluster. These low-maintenance plants produce woody stems with waxy evergreen leaves.
Hoyas have become hugely popular among house plant collectors and available at most retail garden centers, box stores, and plant shops. Depending on species and variety, plants grow in a vine or bushy form. Full length or height of the plant should be 2 to 4 feet. Hoyas prefer bright, indirect sunlight for 2-6 hours daily and moist, well-draining soil that should dry out between waterings.
Vining hoyas are grown in a hanging basket for trailing or support on a trellis within a container. Plant prefers moderately moist, well-draining soil; allow hoyas to dry out between waterings. Hoyas are light feeders. Feed with a slow-release fertilizer once monthly. Orchid fertilizers are adequate.
Hoyas generally bloom from June through September. Flowers grow in a ball-shaped cluster and last for 6-9 days. Each cluster may contain up to 40 individual flowers packed tightly together. Each flower appears to be molded from wax or porcelain, thus their common names. Flowers often sport a colorful central corona eye. Flowers may be sweetly fragrant or quite foul.
Generally, water plant(s) every 7-10 days. Allow plant to dry out between waterings, usually 7-10 days between waterings. Overwatering leads to root rot issues. Hoyas thrive in warm and humid environs. Consider using a humidifier or growing hoyas in a humid room, such as a bathroom with adequate light.
Five Popular Hoya Species:
Hoya kerri ‘Sweetheart’, a variegated form, in Kingwood Center Conservatory in Mansfield, Ohio
H. carnosa: twining trailer with light pink flowers and dark, green leaves; ‘Krimson Queen’ is a popular variety.
H. compacta ‘Indian Rope’ – light pink flowers and curly waxy leaves; popular choice among hoya collectors.
H. kerriivariegata ‘Sweetheart Plant’ -heart-shaped foliage with white margins; yellow and orange flowers.
H. publicalyx – thick, waxy, glossy foliage that climb and cascade beautifully and star-shaped fuschia flowers.
H. australis – oval-shaped waxy leaves, long climbing vines, and fragrant white flowers.
Hoya plants flourish in a well-draining, loose potting mix that prevents waterlogging but still retains adequate moisture. An ideal mix that promotes good aeration around the roots includes amendments like coco coir, orchid bark, perlite, and/or sphagnum peat moss.
Propagate hoyas by stem cuttings rooted in gritty sand or water jar in a warm, air-humid environment. Treating cuttings with a mild rooting hormone is optional.
Inspect plants at least monthly for aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. All can be controlled with neem oil. Possible fungal diseases include botrytis blight and root rot. Inspection, along with good cultural practices, are the key to growing pest-free hoyas.
Outdoors, hoyas may be grown in USDA hardiness zones 10-12. Choose a location with dappled full day to morning only sunlight. Some Hoya species receiving only a few hours of indirect sunlight may not flower poorly.
Hoya carnosa ‘Krimson Queen’ at a local garden center
Prickly pears are a subgroup of Opuntia, identified by their wide, flat, branching pads. They are also called nopal cactus or paddle cactus. Most prickly pear plants are found in warm, dry climates like the Southwestern U.S., although there are some cold-hardy species such as the Eastern prickly pear (O. humifusa). (USDA hardiness zones 4-9). Prickly pears have a combination of detachable spines and tufts of barbed bristles (glochids) that can cause significant allergic skin reactions.
Flowering of Opuntia humifusa
A bed of prickly pear cactus is called a colony. The grey-green vertical pads and 4-inch-wide yellow flowers, along with the edible colorful fruits of most varieties are reasons for their popularity garden-wise. Numerous large yellow flowers form along the flat edges of discs or pads. Pads are covered with far too many piercing and treacherous spines. Pads break off and root into the soil. As prickly pear plants prepare for winter, pads may appear shriveled and lay prostrate on the ground. They quickly recover (green up) in spring.
Pad cacti prefer full- to partial-day (6-hours minimum) sunlight. Plants are highly disease and pest resistant. Occasionally, inspect a colony for mealybug and scale insects and root rot disease when seasonal rainfall is unusually high. Flowers attract bees and hummingbirds. Prune away any damaged or rotted pad to maintain a colony’s appearance. Always wear heavy duty gloves when working with prickly pears.
Prickly pears are popular additions to in gravel gardens. Watering once or twice a month in summer is recommended. A colony grows equally happy in fertile, well-drained soil, sandy or particle soil preferred. Fertilize sparingly with a slow-release product.
Colony of Opuntia humifusa in Johnson City, TN
Three other Opuntia species are grown in U.S. landscapes and in the home are:
Bunny ears cactus (O. microdasys): Renowned for its resemblance to rabbit ears, this adorable cactus features soft, white spines (glochids) and small yellow flowers. (zones 9-11).
Indian fig opuntia (O. ficus indica)boasts large, flat pads and produces sweet, pear-shaped fruits which are valued for its edible fruits and pads, as well as its ecological and medicinal properties. Grows up to 15 feet tall and wide.(zones 8-11).
Spineless varieties like O. cacanapa ellisiana grow up to 3-4 feet tall with oval, gray-green pads with slight purple tinge in winter; vibrant yellow flowers in spring and bright red fruits in fall. They’re virtually have no glochids on the pads but be wary of an occasional tiny spine or two. (7b-11).
The tiny stiff bristles (called glochids) capture pollen which insects gather up and carry to other plants. Pads are edible (called “nopales”) and fruits, called “tunas”, are staples in Mexican cuisine.
In my travels a number of public gardens have wonderful collections of Opuntias including Botanical Gardens in Denver and Atlanta.
‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem in autumn (Photo courtesy of Intrinsic Perennial Gardens, Hebron, IL)
Big bluestem grass (Andropogon gerardii) is a tall, native, perennial, warm season grass that is a dominant species in a large part of the Midwestern U.S. (zones 3-9). Its attractive foliage that changes color seasonally, its good architectural height, and its interesting flower/seed heads have caught the eye of plant breeders.
‘Blackhawks’ (PP27,949) was introduced by plant breeder extraordinaire Brent Horvath at Intrinsic Perennial Gardens in Hebron, IL. This stand-out cultivar promises better reliability and performance in the landscape. The upright dark green foliage begins to turn purple in August as nights cool and is nearly black by late September.
Blackhawks has been selected the 2026 Perennial Plant of The Year by the Perennial Plant Association. Clumps stand erect with flattened leaves (to 2 feet long and 3/8 inches wide). By autumn plants (including inflorescence) finish 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide. It grows taller in moist soils and shorter in dry soils.
Big bluestem grass is easily grown in average, dry to medium, well-drained soils and in full sun. This prairie grass grows in a wide range of soils and growing conditions. Under ideal conditions, it freely self-seeds, demonstrates superior drought tolerance and easy maintenance. Cut stems to the ground in late winter before new shoots appear.
Big bluestem is nick-named “turkeyfoot grass”. In late summer, flowering stems rise in late summer above the foliage clump bearing purplish 3-parted, finger-like flower clusters (to 4″ long) resembling turkey feet.
In early summer new foliage turns purple (Photo courtesy of Intrinsic Perennial Gardens, Hebron, IL)
Enjoy the seasonal color changes of ‘Blackhawks’ starting with its dark green foliage in early season. By mid- to late summer, leaf tips and nodes turn purple, and burgundy red inflorescences emerge. As nights cool, the entire plant intensifies to a dark, rich purple that’s almost black.
Blackhawks Big Bluestem has no serious insect or disease problems. Extensive root system makes big bluestem a good choice for erosion control. It is expected to be also deer-proof.
Landscape Uses: “Blackhawks Big Bluestem is somewhat shorter and more upright than the species. Weave it through perennial plantings for brilliant contrasts and striking combinations. It is best massed in wildflower meadows, prairie or naturalized areas. Plant it in a combo in mixed containers. Due its size, Blackhawks is best suited in back of a perennial border or native plant gardens as a screen or accent
