What Grows There :: Hugh Conlon, Horticulturalist, Garden Advisor, and Photographer

Attracting Monarchs To Your Garden

Posted by Hugh on February 21st, 2016

Monarch on zinnia flower

Monarch on ‘Purple Dome’ aster

From Canada to Mexico, gardeners are being recruited to halt the decline of the Monarch butterfly populations across North America. One way you can help is to fill your garden with Monarch’s favorite flowering nectar plants and milkweeds (Asclepias spp.). Plants should be sited in open full sun and in moist well-drained soil. Avoid spraying pesticides within several hundred square feet of the designated “landing zone” for butterflies.

Nectar plants are the food source that nourishes the adult butterflies. Butterflies feed on their sweet nectar and also aid in pollinating flowers. Select brightly colored flowers which are native to your area. Common nectar plants for monarchs include blackeyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.), beebalm (Monarda spp.), anise hyssop (Agastache spp.), cosmos (Cosmos spp.), aster (Symphyotrichum spp.), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), lantana, Mexican sunflower (Tithonia), ironweed (Vernonia lettermannia), marigold (Tagetes spp.), tall growing sedums (Sedum spectabile), Joe-Pye (Eupatorium spp.), blazing star (Liatris spp.), salvias (Salvia spp.), and zinnia (Zinnia spp.).

Add specific larval-host feeding plants to attract more butterflies to your garden. Butterfly (adults) lay their eggs on specific larval-host plant species. In the case of Monarch caterpillars, the favorite host plants are the milkweeds (Asclepias spp.) to include common milkweed (A. syriaca), swamp milkweed (A. incarnata), showy milkweed (A. speciosa), tropical milkweed or “bloodflower” (A. curassavica), and butterfly milkweed (A. tuberosa). As its common name indicates, bloodflower is a tender perennial or an annual in zones 9-11.

For maximum visitations, add several kinds of flowering plants with staggered bloom times to keep butterflies coming back to your garden spring thru autumn. The local garden center may offer additional kinds of plants not listed here. On-line nurseries offer species of plants that are rarely found at retail garden centers.

Do your part to help rebuild the monarch population by planting colorful milkweeds and native nectar plants in your garden this coming spring.

Little Girl Hybrid Magnolias

Posted by Hugh on February 18th, 2016

Magnolia x ‘Ann’

Magnolia x ‘Susan’

Star (Magnolia stellata) and tulip (M. soulangeana) magnolias are early flowering magnolias. Early spring frosts destroy open flowers. In the mid-1980’s the U.S. National Arboretum released 8 shrub-type cultivars as a series called the “Little Girl Magnolias”. They are hybrid crosses between M. liliiflora and M. stellata. Four cultivars- ‘Ann’, ‘Betty’, ‘Susan’, and ‘Jane’ – became the popular choices in the series (USDA hardiness zones 4-8).

These hybrid magnolias turned out to be great leaps forward in developing a late flowering magnolias that avoided frost injury. Each Little Girl cultivar blooms in early spring (some places in late spring). Large goblet-shaped flowers are comprised of 6 to 9 inches long strap-like tepals (petals and sepals) and are real eye-catchers.

Flower colors vary by cultivar, in pink to purple shades: Ann (pinkish-red), Betty (reddish-purple), Jane (dark purple), Susan (purplish red). They often surprise with occasional blooms in the summer and early fall. Plants are commonly multi-stemmed large shrubs, but can be trained as small trees. Over ten years these deciduous shrubs will measure 10- 15 feet height and spread.

Little Girl magnolias grow in moist, well-drained soil, preferably an acidic pH, and in full to partial sun (4 – 5 hours minimum sunlight). Roots will not tolerate soppy wet ground. Prune spring flowering magnolias soon after the spring flowering flush is over. Prune to remove basal suckers and to maintain the desired form of the shrub or tree magnolia.

The deciduous leaves are thick and leathery and cope summer heat and drought. With proper care and in the right planting site, these hybrid magnolias are generally long-lived and disease and pest problems are rare.

Changing Bigleaf Hydrangea Flower Color

Posted by Hugh on February 14th, 2016

‘Endless Summer’ Hydrangea

Bigleaf Hydrangea at pH 6.4 or higher

Bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla), aka “hortensia” hydrangeas, bear pink flowers in low acidic and alkaline soil and blue flowers in mildly acidic soil. Some tips about regulating soil pH and flower color in bigleaf hydrangeas follows.

First, a short review about soil pH. Soil pH measures soil acidity/alkalinity on a scale of 0-14, with 7.0 being neutral. Numbers above 7.0 indicate alkaline soil while numbers below 7.0 indicate acidic soil. Bigleaf hydrangeas flower blue if the pH is between 5.0 and 6.2. Flowers are pink if soil pH rises to 6.4 and higher.

Flower color is an expression of the amount of aluminum ions (Al+++) in the soil. Aluminum is most available to the plant in acidic soil, and less available in alkaline soil. Gardeners typically purchase aluminum sulfate to lower soil pH. Unfortunately, aluminum toxicity to plants is a big concern because hydrangeas need only small amounts of Al+++.

Garden and shrub beds near cement or concrete foundation walls, sidewalks and driveways, often exhibit low acidic or slightly alkaline soil pH. Over many years limestone leaches from the cement or concrete. While limestone is ideal for most vegetables, flowers or lawn grasses, bigleaf hydrangeas will bloom pink instead of blue.

Pink Flowered Hydrangeas: Gradually add hydrated or dolomitic lime to raise soil pH above 6.2. Be careful on the amount of lime that you add. Above pH 6.4, the quantity of available iron in the soil may become deficient or unavailable to the plant. The hydrangeas take up aluminum best at lower (more acid) pH levels. By raising soil pH, Al+++ is less available to the plant.

Blue Flowered Hydrangeas: For bigleaf hydrangea to flower blue, add aluminum sulfate to garden soil or garden container. Distribute even amounts of aluminum sulfate into soil around the drip line of each shrub. Use of pine needle or bark mulch aids to keep soil slightly more acidic.

Directions: Apply 1/2 oz (1 Tbsp) aluminum sulfate per gallon of water be applied to plants monthly. Irrigate plants immediately following application to prevent burning roots.

Caution: using high amounts of phosphorus fertilizer may result in pink flowered hydrangeas. Soils low in phosphorus and high in potassium bloom more.

Distyliums As Cherry Laurel Or Holly Substitute

Posted by Hugh on February 11th, 2016

Distylium Emerald Heights at Atlanta Botanical Garden

Boxwood like foliage of Emerald Heights Distylium

Hybrid distyliums (Distylium myricoides × racemosum) are compact evergreen shrubs for full sun to partial shade USDA hardiness zones 7 to 9. They are heat and drought tolerant, and are not fussy, growing in average soil with subpar drainage.

Distyliums are members of the witchhazel family (Hamamelidaceae). Their tiny reddish-maroon flowers appear in late January through March, but offer little ornamental value in the winter landscape. Current hybrid selections are favored for their compact growth habit, burgundy new foliage color. Annual growth rate averages 8-10 inches. Distyliums serve as alternatives for time-honored evergreen foundation shrubs such as cherry laurels (Prunus laurocerasus), junipers (Juniperus spp.), hollies (Ilex spp.), and boxwoods (Buxus spp.).

Space plants 2 to 4 feet apart (depending on cultivar and intended use in the landscape) as a specimen, low hedge or a groundcover. In early spring feed distyliums with water soluble (Miracle Gro, Peters, Jacks, or Daniels brand names) or granular fertilizers such as generic 10-10-10 or Holly Tone™ are applied according to package recommendations for evergreen shrubs. Distyliums possess exceptional disease and pest resistances.

These four patented cultivars are now offered:

Blue Cascade® features a matte blue-green foliage with a cascading, layered branching; shrub grows 3 feet wide and 4 feet wide.

Emerald Heights® offers dark green, dense glossy foliage on a compact shrub with upright branching; shrub grows 5 feet tall and 5 feet wide.

Vintage Jade® is a compact, low-spreading mounding shrub with an arched branching habit and dark green foliage; shrub grows 2 feet high and 5 feet wide.

Coppertone® is a medium spreading selection with coppery new spring foliage; shrub grows 3-4 feet high and 4-5 feet wide.

Peace Lily And Anthurium Plants Around Home Or Office

Posted by Hugh on February 8th, 2016

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)

Red Spathe Anthurium

Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) and anthurium are near perfect foliage plants in poorly lit areas around your home or office. They’re native to the tropical rainforests of Central and South America. Both plants are shade-lovers in their native habitats. Direct sunlight for more than one hour will likely burn leaves. They’re members of the aroid (Araceae) family, as are many tropical foliage species.

Leaves are glossy, pointed, and oval or arrowhead-shaped. Their spathe-like flowers are unique and beautiful. White (peace lily) or red (anthurium) flowers emerge from the leaf stalk that gradually fade to green or yellow over many weeks.

Peace lily and anthurium are comfortable at temperatures between 60 – 85 °F. In spring and summer, plant(s) can be moved outdoors provided temperature is above 60 °F. Both thrive in high humidity. Locate near a room humidifier during the dry winter months. Another alternative is to set pots on a tray filled with moist pea gravel and spray plants once or twice daily. Never set a pot directly in water or keep soil (potting media) constantly we as this will promote root rot.

Both species prefer a moist well-drained soil and should be watered weekly with room temperature water. Allow tap water, usually from city fluorinated sources, to stand and dissipate away fluorine or chlorine gas over a 24 hour period before watering. Fertilize monthly during the spring, summer and fall with a water-soluble fertilizer such as Schultz®, Miracle-Gro®, Daniels® or Jacks®. Mix at only one-half the label rate.

Repot plants annually. Remove from pot and divide clumps with a sharp knife. Carefully cut apart plant divisions to include healthy roots and leaves. Clip off spent flowers and old leaves. Pot into a sterile well-drained potting soil.

Monthly inspect the underside of leaves for mites or mealybugs. Problem pests are usually found on the underside of leaves where they’re feeding. Prune off heavily infested leaves and spray insecticidal soap to be rid of insects.

Growing Orchids Is A Great Hobby

Posted by Hugh on February 6th, 2016

Lady Slipper Orchid (Paphiopedilum)

Phalaenopsis orchid at Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC

At one time growing orchids was an elitist hobby for the very rich in our society. Orchids were expensive to purchase. Today, local greenhouses and garden centers sell orchids at affordable prices. Moth (Phalaenopsis) and lady slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum) are the simplest to grow. Here are some easy tips to make home orchid growing a rewarding year-round hobby.

Many orchid species are difficult to grow inside modern homes; not so for the moth and lady slipper orchids. In their natural habitat, orchids are plant epiphytes which grow on tree trunks and branches in the humid tropics. Their thick fleshy roots draw moisture from the air and various surfaces around the roots.

Most important, in northern temperate regions, orchids may spend most of the spring and summer months outdoors beneath the dense leafy canopy of a shade tree in your landscape. In early fall before cold night temperatures arrive (below 40 ºF), plants come back indoors. Orchids are comfortable in home temperatures between 60 and 80 °F.

Low room humidity between 10-40 % during the winter may challenge orchids. Bathrooms and the kitchen are the most humid rooms in a typical home. Group several plants together and set on a tray filled with moist pea gravel. Spray or mist plants daily in winter.

Across the Northern hemisphere outdoor light peering through windows in the winter months is generally lacking. Sunlight intensity is weak and day length is short between November through February. Moth and ladyslipper orchids need only bright light and not direct sunlight.

Orchids should be planted in special potting mix containing coarse bark, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Some medias add charcoal to improve drainage and filter out impurities. A good orchid potting mix retains moisture only a few days. Otherwise, the fleshy orchid roots begin to rot if growing media stays too wet over many days. Never leave an orchid standing in water over many hours. Annually, repot your orchids after flowering, usually in the spring or in late summer.

Fertilize orchids “weakly” and “weekly” from spring thru fall with a high phosphorus-based soluble house plant fertilizer. Package directions for most house plant fertilizers are too strong for orchids. Use only half the recommended rate and feed weekly. Orchids are fertilized once monthly from December thru February. After repotting, do not fertilize for 2-3 weeks.

Coleus Thrive In Summer Heat And Humidity

Posted by Hugh on February 1st, 2016

Coleus ‘Campfire’ on Ohio State Campus

Coleus flowering in October

Coleus (Plectranthus scutellariodes) is a summer annual treasured for its colorful foliage. Plants thrive in summer’s heat and humidity (USDA hardiness zone 11). Coleus is a member of the nettle family Lamiaceae. You can create dazzling beds of color using coleus alone or mixed with flowering annuals.

Modern day coleus grow more compact and better branched. Trailing forms add another option. Every year new varieties surpass previous color barriers. The color array includes green, pink, yellow, orange, red, purple (almost black), cream, and white. Choose from solids, blended colors, or color-veined foliage.

Most varieties perform best in morning sun and afternoon shade, although shade only types are available. Cultivar series such as the ColorBlaze®, Wizard Sun®, Main Street®, and Ducksfoot® prefer partial to full sun, while the Mosaic® and Kong® series excel in moderate shade. ‘Fish Net Stockings’ struts lime green leaves with dark purple venation.

In northern climes (zones 7 and north), coleus prefers moist, compost-rich soil. Excesses or deficits in soil moisture should be avoided. Plant coleus after the spring frost threat has passed and soil temperatures have warmed above 50 ºF. Light feeding with a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro™, Peters™, or Schultz™ every 6 -8 weeks is recommended. For containers incorporate a slow release fertilizer or feed with water soluble fertilizer.

Spacing between plants differs with cultivar size and vigor and this information is usually printed on the plant tag. In general midsize and trailing cultivars should be 16-18 inches apart. Large shade types cultivars should be spaced 24 inches apart unless they’re routinely pinched back.

Over the first 4-5 weeks newly set plants benefit by pinching (light tip pruning) to increase branching and plant density. New coleus cuttings may be quickly rooted from pinched shoots. After 3-4 weeks you can plant rooted cuttings into new garden areas.

Many gardeners opt to pinch off the small flowers to channel energy into plant growth and enhance leaf color and size. Some new cultivars exhibit delayed flower formation.

Scale, spider mites, mealybugs, whiteflies and aphids are occasional pests on coleus.

Coleus MainStreet ‘River Walk’

List Of Dioecious Trees And Shrubs

Posted by Hugh on January 29th, 2016

Kentucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus diocus)

Ginkgo or Maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba)

Some tree species are dioecious, that is produce single sex flowers (either male and female). Male flowers produce pollen and no fruits. Female flowers bear seeds or fruits. You may purchase male clones to avoid picking up messy seed pods or capsules in the fall. If you are allergic to certain tree pollens, avoid planting dioecious male trees.

Most popular of dioecious landscape shrubs are the hollies (Ilex spp.). In holly world many cultivars (varieties) seem to be specially “married” to one another. Gardeners may select female plants for their colorful fruits in fall and winter. Holly fruits may be red, yellow or white colored depending on the cultivar. Be certain that the correct pollinating variety has been planted nearby the specific female cultivar(s). For example, the male clone ‘Apollo’ will pollinate primarily ‘Sparkleberry’ female hollies.

Over the years male clones of several landscape trees have come to dominate our yards and gardens. Male fruitless types do not litter the ground with messy pulpy fruits and seed pods. Ginkgo is one such example. Female ginkgoes produce foul smelling apricot looking fruits. When the ripened fruits fall on sidewalks, the area around them reeks a horrible odor. Male ginkgoes produce no fruits and male clones are grafted by nurseries.

You may run into a third, slightly confusing group are “Polygamo-dioecious” species. This means the male and female flowers grow on separate trees, but occasionally produce perfect flowers on each tree as well. Best examples are certain species and varieties of Maples (Acer spp.), Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos) and Spicebush (Lindera benzoin). These maple types produce few or no fruits in most years.

List of Dioecious Species:

Certain maples -example: boxelder maple (Acer negundo)

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima)

Japanese aucuba (Aucuba japonica)

Bittersweet (Celastrus scandens)

Plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia)

Katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum)

Fringetree (Chionanthus spp.)

Smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria)

Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana)

Hardy Rubber Tree (Eucommia ulmoides)

Ash tree (Fraxinus spp.)

Ginkgo, maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba)

Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos)

Holly (Ilex spp.)

Juniper (Juniperus spp.)

Spicebush (Lindera benzoin)

Osage orange (Maclura pomifera)

Mulberry (Morus spp.)

Bayberry (Myrica pennsylvania)

Amur Cork Tree (Phellodendron amurense)

Podocarpus (Podocarpus macrophyllus)

Poplar or Aspen (Populus spp.)

Willow (Salix spp.)

Yew (Taxus spp.)

Stinking Cedar (Torreya taxifolia)

Consumer Gardening Trends For 2016*

Posted by Hugh on January 26th, 2016

Leisure Time By Pool

Awareness of Beneficial Insects In Landscape

The Garden Media Group (GMG) has released its annual Garden Trends Report for 2016. The report, titled “Syncing With Nature,” identifies eight consumer trends that the group predicts will shake up the garden and outdoor living industry this coming year.

The report finds “gardening” has transformed into a connected lifestyle in 2016, with a rising millennial generation becoming more involved. The eight new trends show ways the gardening and outdoor living industries can connect not only with traditional gardeners but with a broader community.

GMG reports that “consumers are seeking to enhance their health and wellbeing and support their busy lifestyles. They’re merging technology with nature to explore, educate and entertain. More people have a passion for preserving the earth, and bring their home landscapes in sync. They desire a sustainable lifestyle and an eco-friendly garden and outdoor space.”

Connected Greenery – Garden centers and shoppes should embrace technology, syncing garden habits with technology. New gardening apps demonstrate how to grow indoor and garden plants on Instagram or on YouTube.
Combine Tech with Nature – People want to engage kids with gardening, health and fitness in fun new ways. Whether running, playing or storytelling, this trend has the potential to mobilize a new generation of nature lovers, while getting them outside to play.
Gardening That Combines Nature’s Beauty, Health And Wellness – People are adopting concepts like “edible landscaping” of fresh antioxidant edible berries and easy care landscape plants.
DIY Lifestyle – is shifting from “doing” to “making.” Property owners and renters alike want to experience outdoor living in a more hands-on way. Hot trends include providing materials for beer and wine making.
Outdoor living enhanced – includes evening lighting, porch swings, swimming pools, and designs of whimsy.
Landscape Becomes Multi-layered – addition of trees, shrubs, flowers, vines, grasses, and ground covers that provide food and habitat that are beneficial to wildlife, birds, and insects; choose plants of various shapes and sizes such as dwarf conifers, climbing vines on trellises.
Petscaping – pet owners spend about $60 billion on their pets. Switch to safe organic lawn products and limit use of harmful garden chemicals.
Protect and Conserve Earth’s Resources – gardening with less water such as cacti and succulents and to protect and conserve resources with small lifestyle changes.

*Source: Garden Media Group, Kennett Square, PA. Check their website for a full report.

Petunias For Nearly Every Garden

Posted by Hugh on January 21st, 2016

Petunia x ‘Easy Wave Pink Passion’

‘Supertunia Raspberry Blast’

Petunias (Petunia x hybrida) are top performing summer flowering annuals. There are hundreds of colorful varieties to beautify any flower bed or container garden.

Petunias are divided into three basic types:

Grandiflora petunias grow 8-12 inches tall and 8-10 inches spread; they start out upright branched and bear large size 4 to 5 inch wide blooms. Ideal for flower beds, window boxes, and other containers. By mid- summer vegetation and flowers spill over the sides of containers.
Floribunda (or Multiflora) petunias grow 8-12 inches tall and 8-10 inch spread; produce smaller, more abundant flowers that withstand harsh weather conditions. They’re much more versatile and can be planted in areas not suitable for Grandifloras.
Spreading petunias grow 8-10 inches tall and 2-3 feet spread; they trail along garden beds as a non-stop blooming ground cover or spill over edges of containers.

Hundreds of cultivar series are available starting with Waves®, Cascadias®, Supertunias®, Madness®, and Sulfinias® to list just a few. Double and single blooms offer a selection of solid and multi-colored flowers.

Petunias ask for weekly watering and full day sunlight (best) to achieve maximum blooming potential. They will grow in partially shaded locations but bloom less and plants tend to stretch. Petunias are heavy feeders. Before planting petunias work lots of compost into the soil and broadcast a slow release fertilizer over the entire bed. By mid-summer, plants, particularly those in containers, may become nitrogen deficient. Bottom leaves are first to turn yellow and plants bloom more sparsely. Feed container plants with a water soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro®, Peters®, or Schultz® weekly or twice monthly at label rates.

When purchasing plants at garden center, select those with compact habit and unopened buds. Deadhead petunias, e.g. remove flowers to prevent or eliminate seed heads. In mid-season (late July, set your lawn mower to highest setting (5 inches recommended) and mow over taller varieties. Fertilize with 10-10-10 or equivalent product and irrigate. This will re-invigorate the petunia bed to bloom into mid- to late-fall.

Petunias are disease and pest resistant. Do not plant petunias in the same garden area more than three consecutive years to prevent buildup of soil -borne diseases.