What Grows There :: Hugh Conlon, Horticulturalist, Garden Advisor, and Photographer

What’s In Your Garden Soil

Posted by Hugh on December 10th, 2015

Tilled Garden Bed

Choice of 10-10-10 or 6-12-12 Blended Fertilizer at this garden center

There are two basic rules in gardening:

1. the right plant in the right place, and

2. properly feeding the soil that nourishes the plants.

Many problems in lawns and gardens can be avoided if the gardener knows what the fertility and pH of the soil is.

What is soil pH? It is a measure of the soil acidity or alkalinity. A pH meter will accurately measure this. Soil pH range varies from 0 – 7 – 14. Readings from 0 to 7.0 are acidic, 7.0 is neutral, and above 7.0 is alkaline. Most (not all) garden flowers, vegetables, and landscape plants (shrubs, trees and vines) grow best in the mild acidic range between 6.0 and 7.0. Outside this pH range, some minor nutrients like iron (Fe) and manganese (Mn) may become unavailable above 7.0 or in over supply below 5.0.

Soil tests are available from a number of sources: DIY kits sold at garden centers, on-line, or through mail order sources. The results obtained from these test kits are “ball park”. Soil testing from university soil labs or private labs is more accurate. For information about soil testing from university soil labs, contact your local Extension office in your state or county. For an extra fee, the lab may also determine your soil type: sand, silt, or clay.

Results from a soil lab should list: soil pH and suggest amounts of fertilizers and lime to apply to each area of your garden. Blended fertilizers contain nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The analysis may suggest adding only nitrogen. Lawns may benefit from extra calcium and/or magnesium by liming. Dolomitic limestone (Dolomite) contains magnesium (Mg) and hydrated lime supplies calcium (Ca). If you need to lower soil pH, say for growing blueberries or azaleas, how much sulfur (S) should you apply per 1000 square feet.

Frequently, autumn through mid-winter period is the best time to test rather that in the spring. Labs are very busy at that time and a report may take 4-6 weeks to process.

Widely Planted Norway Spruce

Posted by Hugh on December 7th, 2015

Norway spruce (Picea abies)

Norway Spruce cones

Norway spruce (Picea abies) is a large pyramidal evergreen conifer. It is native to the mountains of northern and central Europe where it often matures to 100 feet or more in height. In the cool temperate areas of the U.S. and Canada, Norway spruce is widely planted, typically reaching 50 to 80 feet tall at maturity (USDA hardiness zones 2 to 7-a).

Norway spruce prefers a moist, mildly acidic, well-drained soil and in full sun. The species thrives in the mountains of northeast Tennessee and southwest North Carolina (zone 6 and 7-a), but fails in middle TN and eastern NC (7-b).

Annual growth rate is rapid. Main branches are turned slightly upright on the ends and secondary branches are drooping (pendulous), more apparent on mature trees. Branches are clad with four-sided medium green needles that are spirally arranged along branches. Needles are soft to grip. It is often mistaken for Colorado spruce (P. pungens), whose bluish green needles are right angled and sharp to the touch. Cylindrical seed bearing cones, 5 – 9 inches long, are pendulous. Sticky resin frequently coats the bark of trunk and main branches.

Norway spruce is not troubled by serious insect or disease problems when properly sited. Several species of mites may plague individual spruce trees from time to time. Deer usually stay away from most needle conifers. Birds make use of the layered branches for shelter from wind and cold and as a haven from predators.

Norway spruce is commonly planted in parks, large properties, and woodland areas. It is also utilized as a tall privacy screen, windbreak, or for erosion control. As many as 150 tree and shrub cultivars of Norway spruce are available. Dwarf, upright and weeping forms are set before building foundations and rock garden plantings. It is used as a cut Christmas tree, but needle retention is short-lived.

Mature sspruce at Biltmore Estate, Asheville, NC

Mature spruce at Biltmore Estate, Asheville, NC

Care Of Staghorn Ferns

Posted by Hugh on December 4th, 2015

Staghorn fern hanging basket in shade tree

Staghorn fern (Platycerium bifercatum) is an epiphyte from the forests of Africa, Australia, and Southeast Asia. In temperate regions, it is a popular house plant. In their natural habitat, it prefers to grow attached to tree trunks or rock outcroppings for support. It draws no nutrients from the tree.

Two very different types of fronds (leaves) are found on the same plant. The foliar leaves are fertile, able to bear spores, and resemble the antlers of a deer and elk. The basal leaves, called “elephant ears”, attach to a rough textured surface such as a bark slab or cement wall for vertical support.

Annual care is minimal. Staghorn fern thrives outdoors in the warm humid summer air in the shade. In late spring, when danger of frost has passed, mount or hang fern in indirect sun (preferably early morning sun) and protect it from high winds. Room temperature range between 65 – 75 °F is ideal and staghorn fern can tolerate as low as 25 °F. Keep it drier over the winter period. Never overwater as this often results in fungal disease problems.

It can be grown in a pot or hanging basket in a porous gravelly soil. The upright foliar fronds collect water and debris (dead or decayed leaves) which nourishes the plant. Grow in filtered, not direct sunlight. It attracts very few pests, but do inspect fronds periodically for mealy bugs and scale.

The fertile green fronds may turn gray or silver colored when spores are present. Brown patches on the tips of older fronds indicate mature spores are present.

As the fern matures, it may become too large and heavy. Senior gardeners will opt to pass along this long-lived “family fern” as part of their estate.

Training to vertical support: Create a bed or nest containing water-saturated sphagnum moss or osmunda fiber. Plant staghorn fern and secure with thin wire or twist ties to the bark support. Pound some nails into a bark slab to create the nest containing potting media (sphagnum moss). Keep the moss moist and eventually new fronds will appear.

Buying/Planting A Live Christmas Tree

Posted by Hugh on December 1st, 2015

Colorado spruce, formerly a Christmas tree, now landscape tree

Colorado spruce, formerly Christmas tree, now a landscape tree

Cut Fraser Fir Trees for sale

A living Christmas tree—one that’s planted outdoors after the holidays—has become a tradition with many families to commemorate a birth or someone’s passing.

Purchase a live Christmas tree and plant it in your landscape after the holidays. Pre-dig a planting hole ahead because outdoor weather may not be suitable for digging. For safety sake, fill it with leaves or mulch to prevent freezing or cover it with a board or piece of plywood so no one accidentally falls into it.

Choose an evergreen species that grows well in your plant zone. Your choice includes eastern red cedar, white pine, Norway spruce, and Colorado blue spruce. Frasier fir (Abies frasieri), a very popular Christmas tree, prefers a cool mountain location above 3500 feet elevation (USDA hardiness zones 4-7) and will not be a good landscape tree. Over the past quarter century Leyland cypress has become a popular choice in warm parts of the Southeastern U.S.

Here are some planting steps:

Examine the rootball and top (leader) before you purchase. Rootball for a 6-7 foot tree should measure 30 inches or more in diameter, tied, and wrapped tightly in cloth burlap.
Dig a shallow hole twice the diameter of the rootball.
Unload the tree and be careful not to damage the rootball.
Place the rootball in a tub or container large enough to snugly support it.
Water rootball if it feels dry to the touch; do not let tree stand in water.
Tree should not stay indoors for more than 10 days.
Use LED lights which emit little heat and are energy efficient.
Inspect rootball moisture every 3 days.
Move tree to an unheated garage or basement until you’re ready to plant outside.
Plant outdoors in prepared hole, water and add 3 inches of an organic mulch around tree.

Stop Inviting Critters to Your Property

Posted by Hugh on November 27th, 2015

Haven for Unwanted Critters?

Landscaping practices can influence pest populations. Old landscape timbers, particularly those that are partially rotted, may provide food for termites. powder post beetles, and carpenter ants. Numbers of millipedes, earwigs, crickets, sowbugs, and clover mite larvae may be greatly reduced if piled up old branches and boards are properly disposed of.

Mosquito populations rise in wet summer weather when buckets, plugged up eaves, old tires lay around filled with stale rainwater. Mosquitos carry serious health risks such as the West Nile virus and malaria.

Never distribute organic based mulches near house wood siding and low window sills. Watch wood chip mulch and other wood products on or in the soil (lumber scraps, boards, firewood, pallets, etc.) for signs of activity if termites are present in your area. Keep wood-based mulches several inches away from the house foundation. Bark-based mulches are permitted. Never allow soil or mulch to contact wood- made windowsills or house siding. Periodically inspect mulched zones around your home and garage for signs of termite activity.

Remove old fallen branches to discourage rodents and snakes from nesting. Firewood can also harbor large cockroaches, carpenter ants, wood-boring beetles, termites and others. Clean leaves and debris from gutters.

Overgrown weeds and grasses on abandon properties and vacant lots become the major weeds in the entire neighborhood. Noxious weeds gain a foothold in residential areas by one neighbor who does not take ordinary care of his or her property. In a short time invasive plant species such as multiflora roses, ivies (adult forms), honeysuckles, Johnson grass, and thistles cost muncipalities tens of thousands of dollars to eradicate.

Stop Destroying Forsythias

Posted by Hugh on November 24th, 2015

Forsythia 'Gold Tide' at NC Arboretum In Asheville, NC

Forsythia ‘Gold Tide’ in summer at NC Arboretum in Asheville, NC

Large Forsythia x intermedia needs annual pruning

Forsythia (Forsythia spp.), also called “yellow bells”, is an extremely popular spring flowering shrub (USDA hardiness zones 5-8). Their bright yellow flowers signal the coming of spring. However, many gardeners do not know how to prune them.

Tall 8-12 foot forms of F. x intermedia are commonly sold at most U.S. garden centers. Forsythias grow from 2 to 10 feet high and 4 to 12 feet wide depending on species and cultivars. Natural shrub form is arching. Many forsythias outgrow their space within a few years.

They are frequently planted too close to building and home foundations. What results is clipped boxy hedges or round balls with few flowers. Fall pruning also removes a majority of the pre-formed spring flower buds, which is the main reason you grow forsythia.

Forsythias bloom best in full or partially sunny location. They’re not fussy, growing in any average soi,l and are insensitive to acidic or alkaline pH soils. They have few pest problems although deer browsing in some areas. Spread a slow-release shrub fertilizer in spring if growth is slow or if flowering is sparse.

Prune immediately after flowering has finished in spring. Cut out one-third of the stems to the ground each year to retain its natural arching form plus tip prune to reduce overall size.

Forsythias make excellent specimen shrubs; group several 6-8 feet apart to create a hedge; plant on steep bank for erosion management.

For small sized forsythias, try Gold Tide ® (Courtasol’) that grows 1 – 2 feet tall and 2-4 feet wide. ‘Little Renee’ grows 2 feet tall and 4 feet wide. Goldilocks® (‘Courtacour’) @ 2-3 feet tall and wide; ‘Show Off’ @ 5 feet tall and 6 feet wide; ‘Fiesta’ @ 5 to 6 feet tall and wide and variegated leaves.

Preventing Disease Outbreaks In The Garden

Posted by Hugh on November 21st, 2015

* Hand pruners to remove dead or diseased wood

Viral leaf spot on hosta. Dig up and destroy

When a sick plant has been diagnosed with a viral or bacterial disease, your only option is to remove the diseased branch by pruning or destroy the entire plant. You should start out by practicing prevention.

Prevention is adopting good cultural and sanitation practices. Consider the following measures:

Start with disease-free plants. Inspect plants before purchase for any kind of symptoms. This includes the roots as well.
Use new or clean pots when planting pots and large containers.
Minimize outdoor irrigation or reduce the time interval that foliage remains wet. Keep plant foliage as dry as possible.
Don’t take cuttings from weak or sickly plants.
Don’t crowd your plants. Increase air circulation between them. This is particularly true for disease organisms such as botrytis, and powdery and downy mildews.
Routinely disinfect tools such as propagation knives and scissors with bleach, alcohol or disinfectant solutions. A 15% bleach solution (1 part bleach to 15 parts of water) will sterilize tools. Wash used pots in a mild disinfectant.
Discard any plants showing symptoms — no questions ask. At the garden center, if a flat of tomatoes or pansies contains a few weak or sickly plants, do not purchase. Don’t replace sickly plants in each cell with healthy looking ones from another flat. The tray cells could also be contaminated.
If a friend gifts a cutting or plant from his/her garden, isolate a minimum of 2 weeks before adding it to your plant collection. Daylily rust and hosta X disease frequently get started this way.
Similar measures should be followed for insect prevention.

What You Should Know About Herbicides

Posted by Hugh on November 18th, 2015

Weedy Patch in Garden

Winter annual weeds

By definition a weed is any plant that you don’t want in your garden. Herbicides are vegetation killers and classified as a pesticide that kills weeds. When used incorrectly, herbicides may injure good plants as well. Always read and understand the package directions before using.

In a lawn or garden, you may be trying to control (manage) three different kinds of weeds: grasses, broadleaves, and sedges. Broadleaf weeds including dandelions, spotted spurge, buckthorn, purslanes and thistles. Fall and late winter (before new leaves emerge) are safe times to spray broadleaf herbicides. Most deciduous shrubs and trees are shedding their leaves and are less susceptible to the spray drift. Some herbicides are labelled to kill sedges only or grassy weeds only such as yellow nutsedge, dallisgrass, or quackgrass.

Check the weather forecast before spraying herbicides. Avoid spraying on windy days or on hot days over 85 °F as herbicides may drift or volatilize, injuring nearby garden plants. Hot summer temperatures increase chances of lawn injury from herbicides. It should not rain for 8-12 hours following an application.

For a herbicide to work, outside temperatures need to be 60 °F and higher over a 6 hour interval for contact broadleaf herbicide spray to be adsorbed inside the plant. Regardless the time of the year, weeds need to be actively growing for herbicides to work.

Don’t mow a few days before and 2-3 days following an application. Greater leaf coverage is important here. Don’t spray newly seeded areas and wait 3-4 mowings before treating a new lawn with additional herbicides.

Spring and early summer herbicide applications do not control perennial and woody vegetation such as brambles, poison ivy, and invasive species. Wait until mid-summer to start tackling these tough weeds; multiple applications are usually necessary.

Heavy weed invasion in lawns may be evidence of poor mowing practices, low soil fertility, or too much shade which favors the weeds more than the grass. Presence of knotweed and spotted spurge usually indicates bad soil compaction.

Stylish Boulevard Cypress

Posted by Hugh on November 15th, 2015

PomPom Boulevard Cypress

‘Boulevard Cypress’

A twist here…a turn there, that’s the unique growth of Boulevard Cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Boulevard’). It is a popular medium-sized evergreen shrub for home and commercial landscapes (USDA hardiness zones 5-9). Boulevard cypress exhibits a twisted pyramidal form with soft, silvery blue foliage that also grows in a slightly twisted manner. The fine, texture feathery needles take on a slight purplish tint during the cold winter months.

Boulevard cypress grows to mature heights of 8 to 12 feet and 4 to 6 feet wide. Its annual growth rate averages 6 to 10 inches. It thrives in full sun to light partial shade. In warm Southern climes it enjoys a break from extreme hot midday summer sun. Boulevard cypress should be planted in moist, compost-rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Mulching newly planted shrubs is highly recommended. Fertilize with granular 10-10-10 or an equivalent product in late winter – early spring.

Boulevard cypress is relatively free of serious problems although Phomopsis needle blight and root rot problems may occur when poorly sited. Older mature specimens often show up interior needle browning, which is blown away with a leaf blower if the buildup becomes excessive or unsightly. Seed and fruit formation are unimportant.

Utilize Boulevard as a specimen shrub, or 5-12 foot high clipped hedge or privacy screen. Garden centers may sell pompom forms. Plants should be spaced minimum of 6-8 feet apart to avoid overcrowding and eventual decline due to disease and pest problems. During the summer, inspect all off-colored evergreens for a buildup of mites; hose them down with water weekly.

Winterberry Holly Brightens Winter Scene

Posted by Hugh on November 12th, 2015

Winterberry Holly at NC Hwy Rest Area

‘Winter Gold’ holly in early fall at Atlanta Botanical Garden

To escape from dreary days this winter, brightened up your landscape with deciduous hollies. Among a long, long list of deciduous holly species, winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata) is the superior choice (USDA hardiness zones 3-9). Inconspicuous white blooms in spring are followed by red, orange, or yellow berries in fall. Compared to their evergreen kin, winterberry hollies shed all foliage in the fall, revealing the colorful berry fruits.

Winterberry holly is native to swampy areas in the eastern half of North America. Winterberries prefer full sun and a moist, acidic soil (at home in wet soil). Well established after two years, shrubs are drought tolerant; berry production is highest on swampy or boggy ground. Feed with granular 10-10-10 or equivalent or with Holly-tone® in late winter or early spring.

In spring bees pollinate the tiny holly flowers, and birds consume the vibrant fruits in winter. Cut berry-filled branches in fall and bring indoors to decorate. In early spring prune deciduous hollies partially and back to the ground every 4-5 years. Disease and insect problems are rare and deer leave hollies alone.

Deciduous hollies are excellent for massing, for hedging, for wet soils, and for attracting wildlife to your landscape. Plant one “matched” male selection nearby 8-10 female plants to boost fruit numbers. Mature plant size depends on cultivar planted. Some of the better selections of deciduous hollies include:

Berry Heavy® – 6 to 8 feet tall shrub and abundant bright red berries.

Berry Nice® – 6-8 feet tall shrub and bright red berries.

‘Bonfire’ (I. verticillata x serrata) – 8 by 8 feet holly and bears small red berries at young age.

‘Red Sprite’ – compact 3 to 5 feet tall with large, bright red berries and lustrous dark green leaves.

‘Sparkleberry’ (I. verticillata x serrata) –upright branched, 12 feet tall, and brilliant red fruit.

‘Winter Gold’ – matures to 7 by 7 feet with lovely salmon colored berries.

Winter Red® – matures to 8 by 8 feet with lustrous dark green leaves and bright red berries.

Male Pollinators:

‘Apollo’ ( I. verticillata x serrata) – pollinator for ‘Bonfire’, ‘Red Sprite’, and ‘Sparkleberry’.

‘Jim Dandy’ – pollinator for Berry Heavy®, Berry Nice®, ‘Red Sprite’.

‘Southern Gentleman’ – pollinator for Berry Nice®, ‘Sparkleberry’, ‘Winter Gold’, Winter Red®.

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