Fall Landscaping Tips

Posted by Hugh on September 12th, 2015
Young 'Winter King' Hawthorn contrast beautifully with two large Evergreen trees

Young ‘Winter King’ hawthorn contrast beautifully with two large evergreen trees

Camellia x 'Sparkling Burgundy' Catches One's Attention at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

‘Sparkling Burgundy’ Camellia Gets Your Attention at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

 

American holly (Ilex opaca) at Longwood Gardens

Young American holly (Ilex opaca) at Longwood Gardens, Kennett Square, PA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool autumn temperatures and increased rainfall make Autumn an ideal time to plant. Attractive landscaping adds value to your home and property. Selecting select deciduous trees and shrubs may reduce home winter heating bills and provide cooling shade in summer. Gardeners living in condos or townhouses should also consider a winter hardy evergreen or flowering shrub for their deck or patio.

Trees and shrubs are key landscape components that beautify over many decades. Select plants  that are cold and heat hardy where you live, their mature size versus available garden space to fill, and their ornamental features such as seasonal leaf color, flowering, ornamental fruits. Plan before you go to the garden center to make your purchase.

A few helpful tips when shopping for plants:

  • Around a home foundations, plant low growing evergreen and/or flowering shrubs. Dwarf and semi-dwarf growing shrubs reduce the need to prune.
  • Utilize vertically branched shrubs to define entrance ways or to soften corners (edges) of homes such as pyramidal yews, columnar junipers and hollies, and many other choices.
  • Large densely branched conifers planted on the west or north sides around the property can shelter against prevailing winds and lower winter heating bills.
  • Broadleaf evergreens, such as hollies, azaleas, and rhododendrons, produce colorful flowers or berries, and maintain their foliage year-round.
  • Ground covers are low cost alternatives for stabilizing slopes and for seasonal flowering and fruits.
  • Unique dwarf, weeping, or colorful leafy shrubs and trees are good accents planted in containers around patio and deck areas.
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Dwarf Ginkgoes For Small Spaces

Posted by Hugh on September 10th, 2015

 

Ginkgo biloba 'Spring Grove'

Ginkgo biloba ‘Spring Grove’

Prehistoric Ginkgo trees (Ginkgo biloba) are easily identified by their triangular shaped leaves (USDA hardiness zones 4-8). Trees mature to huge sizes, up to 80 – 90 feet high. Their growth rates are initially slow during the early establishment years. Ginkgo tree are “dioecious”, either male and female. Most (not all) ginkgoes develop into tall pyramidal trees with lovely green spring/summer foliage that turns buttery yellow in the fall.

Female ginkgoes bear apricot-like fruits that are foul smelling when they ripen in the fall over several weeks. Male ginkgo trees for sale at garden centers should be labelled “male” and are usually grafted forms. Otherwise, don’t buy them.

Dwarf forms are ideal for growing in containers and for planting in miniature landscapes such as in railroad gardens, fairy gardens, or small urban gardens. Their cold hardiness makes them a great addition to large containers northern urban areas.

Growth assessments are based on 10 year averages. Expect dwarf forms to mature to less than one-third to one-half that of the species. Pruning of young plants may be needed to remove errant branches.

‘Chase Manhattan’– slow grower with small dark green cupped leaves on closely spaced branches; 3 feet tall and wide in 10 years.

‘Gnome’ – dark green leaves are densely packed on short internode thick muscular stems; miniature vertical form 5 feet tall by 2 feet wide in 10 years.

‘Gold Spire’ – intermediate size shrub or tree form; shear lightly the first 3-4 years to develop into a pyramidal tree form; 10-12 feet tall by 3-4 feet wide after 10 years.

‘Mariken’ – exceptionally slow growing, compact shrubby habit with a flat, rounded canopy; 2 feet tall by 3 feet wide after 10 years.

‘Spring Grove’ – a miniature tree form for urban landscapes; pyramidal when young and eventually globe shaped; 4 feet tall by 2 feet wide after 10 years.

‘Troll’ – unique dwarf male ginkgo with a tight, compact habit; 4 feet by 3 feet in 10 years.

These special ginkgoes are primarily available through mail order nurseries and specialty confer nurseries. One of the best sources  for dwarf ginkgo cultivars is Klehm’s Song Sparrow Nursery. Order on-line @ www.songsparrow.com

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Italian Arum Returns Every Autumn

Posted by Hugh on September 7th, 2015
Late spring Fruits of Arum italicum start green and turn orange-red

Late spring fruits of Arum italicum start green and turn orange-red

Italian arum (Arum italicum) is a long-lived woodland perennial native to Italy and much of the Mediterranean region. Several members of the arum family (Araceae), including this species, are also known as “Lords and Ladies”. It typically grows 9-18 inches tall (depending on location) and slowly spreads over many years.

Shoots first emerge from beneath the woodland leaf litter in autumn. The brightly-veined foliage appears when most perennials are entering winter dormancy. Long-petioled, shiny green, arrowhead-shaped leaves are 8-12 inches long with distinctive white netted venation. Italian arums grow best in medium moist, organically rich soils in part shade to full shade. Hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9, it also prospers in protected areas in zone 5.

In spring greenish to creamy yellow flowers (called “spathes”) emerge; they’re similar to flowers of jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema spp.). In summer stems, spadix portion of the flower is laden with green berries which ripen orange-red. Soon afterwards, it enters a dry summer dormancy period and completely disappears.

Italian arums form plant colonies and are long-lived. Leaves and the colorful berries are toxic and are deer and vole resistant. Plants are easy to dig up and divide in late winter. Mowing them down seems to make plants proliferate. Fertilizing clumps appear to be unnecessary if soil is humusy (from rotted leaves and debris) and soil moisture are plentiful.

Italian arum makes a perfect companion plant for shade loving summer perennials such as hostas, Solomon seals, astilbes, and ferns or winter add-ons with Lenten roses (hellebores). Italian arum is not susceptible to insect or disease problems and deer and voles stay away.

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Mid-Summer Blooming ‘Happy Days’ Sunflower

Posted by Hugh on September 4th, 2015
Helianthus 'Happy Days'

Helianthus ‘Happy Days’

Showy mid- to late-summer blooming

Showy mid- to late-summer blooming

The cheerful golden yellow flowers of Happy Days sunflower (Helianthus ‘Happy Days’) should brighten your garden during the waning days of summer (USDA hardiness zones 5-9).

This perennial sunflower has a long 4 to 6 week blooming period. In its first season new plants grow 24-30 inches tall and almost as wide. In subsequent years, tack on an additional 12-18 inches in height. Its small size makes it a good choice for a sunny garden  or container.

Helianthus ‘Happy Days’ produces long lasting 3 to 4 inch diameter golden yellow flowers. In the spring the plant forms an upright mound of broad lanceolate dark-green leaves. Floral stems arise with double anemone-like centers and short ray petals around the base. No staking is needed as flower stems are sturdy.

Happy Days sunflowers are at their best on an open, well-drained sunny site (minimum 5 hours of direct sunlight) and on moist, compost-rich, well-drained soils. Feed at planting time or in early spring with slow release fertilizer (examples: Osmocote™, Nutrikote™, or Milorganite™).

Cut old dead stems back to the ground in late fall or leave for winter interest. Every 3-4 years sunflowers form dense clumps that are best divided while still dormant in early spring. Digging and dividing old clumps greatly improves plant vigor.

Flowers are excellent for cutting. They attract butterflies and hummingbirds; rabbits usually leave sunflowers alone. Disease and insect problems are rare when sunflowers are properly sited. Sunflowers perform poorly winter soils are constantly wet or soggy.

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Fall Planting of Peonies

Posted by Hugh on September 1st, 2015

Spring Flowering Peonies Starts With Fall Planting

Spring Flowering Peonies Starts With Fall Planting


Fall is the perfect time to plant peonies either from bare-root plants or from pre-potted plants at garden centers. Fall planted peonies will adapt to their new garden spot over the winter and usually will bloom in the spring.

There are three types of peonies: herbaceous, tree, and intersectional (hybrids of herbaceous and tree types). Only herbaceous peonies will be discussed here. Plants are extremely long-lived, often surviving 50 to 70 years. Peonies are easy to grow if you follow three simple rules: 1. good site selection; 2. good soil preparation; and 3. proper planting depth.

Herbaceous peonies prefer cool summer climates from USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8. They require a sunny well-drained garden spot with a slightly acidic soil pH (between 6.0 to 7.0). If you live in a hot humid region, such as in the Southeastern U.S., shelter plants from direct afternoon sunlight. Plant right up until the ground freezes in the fall. Take advantage of the warm ground by planting early. Spring-planted peonies have a tougher time recovering compare to those planted in the fall.

Purchase large 3-5 eye divisions. Often, garden centers sell unsold spring potted stock at big discounts. Dig a wide hole, carefully remove the plant from the pot, and set in the hole at the same depth as in the pot. Poor soil drainage is the one enemy of peonies. The crown and roots will rot and the plant slowly dies. Amend the planting hole with organic compost and/or well-rotted manure to improve drainage and nutrition.

The eyes (buds) should be set no more than 1-2 inches below the soil surface. Planting too deeply will frequently prevent the plant from flowering. Shallow planting puts the buds at risk of mechanical or winter damage.

Peonies require little additional maintenance. In late winter feed 10-10-10 or equivalent granular fertilizer or a slow release organic-based fertilizer. Mulching around plants conserves soil moisture and reduces weeding. Irrigate newly planted peonies over the dry growing months. They become very drought tolerant after two years.

In the fall cutback all herbaceous peony stems to the ground. Old peony foliage may harbor fungal and bacterial diseases. Dispose of all plant material and do not compost.

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‘Purple Dome’ Aster Reliable In The Late Summer Garden

Posted by Hugh on August 30th, 2015
'Purple Dome' Aster

‘Purple Dome’ Aster

 

 

New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) is indigenous to a wide geographic area that encompasses moist prairies, meadows, valleys and stream banks in most Eastern and midwest states as far south to New Mexico. ‘Purple Dome’ is a very popular dwarf cultivar introduced by Dr. Richard Lighty, former director of Mt. Cuba Center in Greenville, Delaware. It grow 2  to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide.

Purple Dome bears dark purple flowers that blanket its low growing shrubby form from mid-August thru early October. That’s 4-6 weeks of sustainable purple color. Blooms measure 1 ½ inches across with prominent bright yellow centers. The flowers are covered with nectar hungry bees and butterflies. Unlike most New England aster cultivars, Purple Dome requires no pinching or staking.

The lance-shaped dark green leaves are rough, hairy on the surface, and up to 4 inch in length. Bloom clusters make excellent bouquets. New England asters are very durable, long-lived, and tolerant of wet soils. Plants should best divided every 2-3 years in early spring.

New England asters grow in average well-drained soil in full sun although prefer moist, compost-rich planting sites. They have no serious insect or disease problems. Good air circulation around plants reduces potential foliar diseases, particularly mildews. Aster wilt may be an occasional problem, particularly if plants are grown in poorly-drained clay soils. Plants showing aster wilt symptoms should be quickly removed from the garden. Plants are rabbit resistant.

Purple Dome asters come highly recommended for inclusion in native plant areas, prairie restorations, and in rain gardens. Gardeners should add Purple Dome asters to low flower borders.

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Bloodroot Is Wonderful Woodland Beauty

Posted by Hugh on August 27th, 2015
Bloodroot Emerging Through Leaf Litter In Spring

Bloodroot Emerging Through Leaf Litter In Spring

Bloodroot in Early Spring

Bloodroot in Early Spring

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bloodgood (Sanguinaria canadensis) is a long-lived rhizomatous native woodland wildflower. All plant parts exude a bright reddish-orange sap when cut, hence the common name. Indians utilized as a dye and sap is antibacterial, antifungal, and antiviral. Roots are poisonous if ingested (USDA hardiness zone 3 -9).

In very early spring white or pale pink flowers with bright yellow stamens rise 6-10 inches tall. Multiple flower stalks, containing solitary 8-10 petaled blooms, emerge wrapped around by a deeply-scalloped, grayish-green palmate leaf. Single flowers measure 2-inches across and open up in early morning and close at dusk; it lasts only a few days. Scalloped leaves, some 9 inches across, continue to grow in size after flowering is over and remain attractive through early summer when the entire clump dies back (dormant) until late next winter.

Bloodroot is best planted in a humus rich, well-drained soils in part to full shade. It also performs in 1/2 day morning sun, and in dry woodland soils (not initially, but once fully established). In early spring (late winter in the South), large pure white flowers arise atop 6-10 inch tall plants. If site location is ideal, bloodroot self-sows and forms small colonies in woodland shade.

Early fall or late winter are ideal planting times to insure that roots will establish before winter arrives. Potted plants have become more available at garden centers for those who shop for these woodland beauties early spring.

Bloodroot is not troubled by disease or pest problems provided soil is well-drained. Deer, rabbits, moles, voles, and other critters usually leave bloodgood alone. Over the past ten years bloodroot, along with other woodland perennials, have been appearing at local garden centers and specialty native plant emporiums. You should check with Barry Glick at Sunshine Farms in WV or Andrea Sessions at Sunlight Gardens in Andersonville, TN.

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Crape Myrtles With Awesome Bark

Posted by Hugh on August 24th, 2015

Light Creamy Bark of  ‘Apalachee’

L. 'Townhouse' at JC Raulston Arboretum

L. ‘Townhouse’ at JC Raulston Arboretum

Trunk Bark of L. fauriei 'Fantasy' at JC Raulston in Raleigh, NC

Trunk Bark of L. fauriei ‘Fantasy’ at JC Raulston in Raleigh, NC

 

Many cultivars of crape myrtles are hybrids that combine the large, colorful flowers of common crape myrtle (L. indica) with the mildew-resistance and cold hardiness of Japanese crapemyrtle (L. faurei). Many U.S. National Arboretum hybrid releases excel with beautiful year-round ornamental bark.

Among the tree forms are ‘Natchez’ (my favorite), ‘Apalachee’, ‘Lipan’, ‘Muskogee’, and Tuscarora’. Natchez possesses extraordinary cinnamon brown winter bark and is rated among the hardiest in USDA hardiness zone 6.

Some intermediate shrub crape myrtles also exhibit extraordinary bark that is often passed over by landscapers. Gardeners should remove the lower lateral branches to catch a full view of these better forms: ‘Acoma’, ‘Hopi’, ‘Sioux’, and ‘Tonto’. Wait 5 to 6 years to properly evaluate these and other shrub types.

According to Dr. Gary Knox, University of Florida crape myrtle authority, ‘Acoma’ and ‘Lipan’ exhibit near white to creamy brown bark. This trait is desirable in the deep South where white bark birch species (Betula spp.) do not tolerate the intense summer heat and humidity.

Japanese crapemyrtles (L. fauriei) possess some of the best winter bark color. These multi-branched trees grow taller, 40 feet or more in height.  On the grounds of the J.C. Raulston Arboretum is a 50 foot tall specimen of ‘Fantasy’ with exquisite cinnamon brown flaking bark. Nearby is another outstanding L. fauriei beauty ‘Townhouse’, with a darker brown bark. White flower spikes in early summer tend to be smaller but very abundant. Japanese crapemyrtles bloom only once a season.

 

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Seven Step Lawn Renovation Program

Posted by Hugh on August 21st, 2015
New fall renovated lawn the following spring

New fall renovated lawn the following spring

Fall (late August to mid-October) is the “springtime” for lawn care. Most weeds have stopped growing and the cooler weather is a more comfortable time to work outdoors. If your home lawn is in horrible condition, now (not spring) is the best time of the year to take on lawn renovation.

First, here are a few guidelines before you get started. The information is useful for homeowners who reside in temperate areas of the U.S. (USDA hardiness zones 3-7). You will be sowing cool season grasses such as tall fescues, bluegrass, red or chewing fescues, and perennial ryegrasses. Most seed companies package seed blends containing 3-4 varieties. Consult your local Extension office or State Unversity website for additional information.

There are seven basic steps in renovating a lawn: 

  • Apply non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate (Roundup™) that eliminates all vegetation. Follow package directions and use the high rate.
  • Wait at least seven days for the herbicide to work; it needs to penetrate the foliage and move (translocate) down to the roots to effectively kill plants. Weeds and old lawn grass may still appear green and are essentially killed.
  • Rototill the soil to 4-5 inch depth.
  • Broadcast fertilizer and lime (if needed); a soil test prior to starting may be of value, but proceed nonetheless..
  • Lightly rake to smooth (level) the soil surface, break up large soil clods and remove large debris such as rocks, thatch, twigs, and most fallen tree leaves.
  • Spread seeds uniformly over the surface and lightly rake the surface a second time to insure soil to seed contact. Previously, you should have measure out the area (length x width) to be seeded, calculated the area square footage, and weigh out amount of seed needed for complete coverage. Do not over apply seeds
  • Spread clean straw (not hay) over the surface (1-2 bales per 1,000 square feet) to keep moist and hasten seed germination. It also covers the seed to prevent birds from feeding. Additional irrigation to provide grass seedlings water.

 

 

 

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Calamint: Tough Reliable Perennial Ground Cover

Posted by Hugh on August 18th, 2015

Variety ‘Marvelette Blue’

C. nepeta ‘Blue Cloud’

Calamint (Calamintha nepeta subsp. nepeta) is low mounding subshrub or perennial native to southern Europe; its primary use is as a low growing ground cover (USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8). It is a member of the Lamiaceae family. Foliage grows only 15-18 inches tall. The subspecies, var. nepeta, is the preferred choice because it produces more flowers per inflorescence.

Calamint tolerates most soil types that are well-drained, and is at its best in full sun with good air circulation.Blooms are white (buds lavender-pink). Airy plumes of small pale blue or white flowers fill their garden spot from June- October. Foliage emits a minty or oregano fragrance when stroked or brushed. Calamint blooms for multiple weeks in the summer and attracts lots of butterflies and bees. Its scent keeps deer away.

Calamint does not spread aggressively around the garden like regular mint. Clumps may be easily divided in early spring. Calamint is popular in Northeast and Midwestern U.S gardens. Calamint tends to languish in warm and humid climates like the southeastern U.S. Snip back plant by one-third in late July to repair its ragged appearance and spur new flowering.

Treat this herbal perennial as short-lived, 3-4 years at most. It is frequently substituted for sometimes iffy baby’s breath (Gypsophila spp.), plus add the aroma of calamint. It is excellent for edging a border along a pathway or plant it in containers. It also  makes a great rock garden plant. In the kitchen crushed leaves may be used to flavor favorite pasta dishes.

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