Critter-Resistant Flower Bulbs

Posted by Hugh on September 24th, 2015
"Deer Candy" Tulips

“Deer Candy” Tulips

Dependable Daffodils

Dependable Daffodils

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Who doesn’t love colorful flowering bulbs in the early spring garden? Unfortunately, many gardens are terrorized by flower-devouring deer or bulb-chomping squirrels, voles and other critters. When utilizing smelly sprays, expensive fencing, or firearms are not options, plant a wide choice of flower bulbs that critters don’t like.

Start out with long-lived daffodils, also called narcissus. They come in so many varieties, small or large flowers, and in color choices ranging from yellow, white, orange, pink, or bi-colors. Deer and rodents won’t eat them like tulips and most types of crocuses which are candy to them.

Alliums, snowdrops (Galanthus), snowflakes (Leucojum aestivum), camassia, starflowers (Ipheion), glory-of-the-snow and blue squill are also critter-proof. Deer and rodents usually leave them alone. Hyacinthoides, Scilla, Grecian windflowers (Anemone blanda) are also good bets.

Most bulbs naturalize and return to bloom for many years. Planted them in a sunny location and in well-drained soil. Encourage bulbs to naturalize by allowing the foliage to die back naturally after bloom. Do not cut back or braid foliage immediately after flowering. Leaves will store up food via photosynthesis in the new bulbs. Fertilize spring flowering bulbs in late winter with a slow-release fertilizer (Milorganite™, Osmocote™, or specially labelled bulb products).

Certain bulbs such as snowdrop (Galanthus), scilla, winter aconite (Eranthis), and snowflakes (Leucojum) are highly shade tolerant. Bulbs emerge in late winter in open deciduous shade. They receive adequate sunlight through the open deciduous woodland canopy before new tree foliage emerges by mid-spring.

Special situations: In stressful environments when animals are starving, they’ll eat almost any bulbous plant.

Best of The Critter Proof Bulbous Perennials

Ornamental onion (Allium)

Camassia

Glory of the snow (Chionodoxa).

Colchicum (late summer and fall bloomer)

Crocus tommasinianus – Squirrel-proof only

Fritillaria

Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis)

Spanish bluebell (Hyacinthoides hispanica)

Starflowers (Ipheion)

Snowflake (Leucojum)

Narcissus (Daffodil)

Scilla

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Fall Lawn And Landscape Planting Tips

Posted by Hugh on September 21st, 2015
Fall Chores At Biltmore Estates, Asheville, NC

Fall Chores At Biltmore Estates, Asheville, NC

New pansy planting in fall

New pansy planting in fall

 

 

 

 

 

 

The combination of warm soil and cool air makes autumn an ideal time to plant new trees, shrubs, perennials, and cool season annuals. You may want to divide certain perennials such as iris, hostas, daylilies, and lots more. Fall weather favors root growth which aids transplants to recover quickly before winter’s chill arrives.

Autumn planting tips:

1. Give plants room to grow. Don’t plant trees or shrubs too close to one another and surrounding structures (home, garage, storage buildings, utility polls). Tall trees can drop loads of leaves and twigs into roof eaves. Look up! for utility lines.  Call the gas (and electric) company to locate underground lines before digging.

2. Dig planting holes that are not deep and extra wide (2 -3 times circumference) to accommodate rootballs either at or slightly above soil grade.

3. Adding soil amendments and fertilizer to the planting hole is usually not necessary. A few specific shrubs and trees are exceptions. Staking trees is usually unnecessary unless planting site is very windy.

4. Add 2-3 inches of organic-based mulches, such as pine straw (needles), wood chips or compost around base of newly planted landscape plants. Never pile mulch up around the trunk. The mulch layer offers insulation value; it traps in soil heat so shrubs and trees quickly acclimate to their new surroundings.

5. Prune off diseased, damaged or broken branches before planting.

6. Provide deer and rabbit protection if appropriate.

7. Water newly set plants the same day of planting. Do not assume that seasonal rainfall will be adequate. In some eastern U.S. states, October and November are usually drier than normal. New evergreen shrubs should be deeply irrigated. Overhead sprinkler may run for 3 hours (or 10 hours of drip irrigation) every 8 to 10 days until late November – if rainfall is not plentiful.

8. Complete new lawn seeding and/or renovating by mid-October.

8. Broadcast weed preventatives against early spring cool season weeds such as henbit, ground ivy, purslane, chickweeds, dandelions, and lots others. These weeds grow over the winter and spring months.

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Six Notoriously Weak Wooded Trees

Posted by Hugh on September 18th, 2015

 

Notorious 'Bradford' Pear (Pyrus calleryana) Blooming in Early Spring

‘Bradford’ Pear (Pyrus calleryana) Blooming in Early Spring

Mimosa tree (Albizia julibrissin)

Mimosa tree (Albizia julibrissin)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Almost any time is a good time to plant trees – weather permitting. Sort through many great choices and avoid planting weak wooded species. These six tree species are generally short-lived, messy, and insect and/or disease susceptible. A few may also be designated invasive in your state.

Ornamental or Callery pears (Pyrus x calleryana (‘Bradford’ and other cvs.) are popular medium sized flowering tree. In very early spring its upright branches are blanketed with white flowers. This fast growing tree develops weak branch crotches that self-destruct in stormy or windy weather. Ornamental fruits are eaten by birds that distribute the seeds. Ornamental pears may become invasive (USDA hardiness zones 4 – 8).

Silver maples (Acer saccharinium) have a short life span and a rapid growth rate compared to other large maple species. At maturity, a typical silver maple may reach up to 60-80 feet in height. Seedling types possess weak branches which tend to break in ice storms or high winds. Some improved hybrids and cultivars such as ‘Silver Queen’ exhibit a sturdier framework.

Weeping willows (Salix spp.), including corkscrew willow (S. matsudana ‘Tortuosa’), are weak wooded. During the spring and summer, willows drop lots of twig and leaf debris. Willows are susceptible to numerous disease and insect problems (USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 4b – 8).

Siberian elms (Ulmus pumila) are very large fast growing weak-wooded tree (100 feet not uncommon). They’re exceptionally messy and litter turf and ground areas year-round. As its name hints, species is extremely cold hardy, but is not heat tolerant in Southern U.S. landscapes (USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 4 – 8).

Mimosa trees (Albizia julibrissin) develop into a lovely summer flowering small tree with pink feathery flowers and fine textured foliage. Unfortunately, these summer-flowering trees are short-lived, weak-wooded, and seeds in readily from trees many miles away (USDA hardiness zones 6 – 9).

Poplars and cottonwoods (Populus spp.) grow up to 5 feet to 8 feet a year, some species reaching 40 feet to 60 feet in height. Their weak branches spread 20 feet to 35 feet apart and are dangerous to house and autos. Leaves and branches are highly susceptible to numerous diseases and insects. In rural areas poplars are often planted in rows as windbreaks along perimeters of properties (USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 3 – 9).

In summary, most quick-growing trees are weak wooded, produce lots of seeds and/or messy fruits, root sucker badly, and are disease and insect susceptible.

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‘Victory’ Chosen Hosta Plant Of The Year For 2015

Posted by Hugh on September 15th, 2015
Hosta 'Victory'

Hosta ‘Victory’

The Hosta Growers Association has selected ‘Victory’ the Hosta of the Year for 2015 (USDA Zones 3–9). ‘Victory’ is a large hosta cultivar with gold edged variegated leaves and an upright vase-shaped plant habit.

Victory hosta is a sport of H. nigrescens ‘Elatior’, distinctive also for its beautiful, upright form. Plant develops into a broad 3 – 4 feet spreading mound and around 3 feet high. Hostas rated in the “extra large” category size take 3 to 4 years to reach mature size described on plant tag.

Plants grow rapidly if properly sited and cared for. Victory hostas produce light lavender flowers that stand above the foliage on sturdy stalks. Summer flowers attract hummingbirds and some insect pollinators. Gold leaf edging tends to fade to a light cream color by late summer.

Hostas are best planted in partial to full shade and adapt to a wide range of soil types that are well-drained and generously amended with compost. One year old established plants tolerate brief spring/summer dry periods. Feed once annually with a slow-release organic based fertilizer at planting time or in early spring.

Every 5-6 years, dig up and divide hostas either when new spring growth begins to emerge or when clump shows first signs of decline in fall. Leaves on Victory hosta have thick substance that make them slug resistant.

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Fall Landscaping Tips

Posted by Hugh on September 12th, 2015
Young 'Winter King' Hawthorn contrast beautifully with two large Evergreen trees

Young ‘Winter King’ hawthorn contrast beautifully with two large evergreen trees

Camellia x 'Sparkling Burgundy' Catches One's Attention at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

‘Sparkling Burgundy’ Camellia Gets Your Attention at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

 

American holly (Ilex opaca) at Longwood Gardens

Young American holly (Ilex opaca) at Longwood Gardens, Kennett Square, PA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool autumn temperatures and increased rainfall make Autumn an ideal time to plant. Attractive landscaping adds value to your home and property. Selecting select deciduous trees and shrubs may reduce home winter heating bills and provide cooling shade in summer. Gardeners living in condos or townhouses should also consider a winter hardy evergreen or flowering shrub for their deck or patio.

Trees and shrubs are key landscape components that beautify over many decades. Select plants  that are cold and heat hardy where you live, their mature size versus available garden space to fill, and their ornamental features such as seasonal leaf color, flowering, ornamental fruits. Plan before you go to the garden center to make your purchase.

A few helpful tips when shopping for plants:

  • Around a home foundations, plant low growing evergreen and/or flowering shrubs. Dwarf and semi-dwarf growing shrubs reduce the need to prune.
  • Utilize vertically branched shrubs to define entrance ways or to soften corners (edges) of homes such as pyramidal yews, columnar junipers and hollies, and many other choices.
  • Large densely branched conifers planted on the west or north sides around the property can shelter against prevailing winds and lower winter heating bills.
  • Broadleaf evergreens, such as hollies, azaleas, and rhododendrons, produce colorful flowers or berries, and maintain their foliage year-round.
  • Ground covers are low cost alternatives for stabilizing slopes and for seasonal flowering and fruits.
  • Unique dwarf, weeping, or colorful leafy shrubs and trees are good accents planted in containers around patio and deck areas.
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Dwarf Ginkgoes For Small Spaces

Posted by Hugh on September 10th, 2015

 

Ginkgo biloba 'Spring Grove'

Ginkgo biloba ‘Spring Grove’

Prehistoric Ginkgo trees (Ginkgo biloba) are easily identified by their triangular shaped leaves (USDA hardiness zones 4-8). Trees mature to huge sizes, up to 80 – 90 feet high. Their growth rates are initially slow during the early establishment years. Ginkgo tree are “dioecious”, either male and female. Most (not all) ginkgoes develop into tall pyramidal trees with lovely green spring/summer foliage that turns buttery yellow in the fall.

Female ginkgoes bear apricot-like fruits that are foul smelling when they ripen in the fall over several weeks. Male ginkgo trees for sale at garden centers should be labelled “male” and are usually grafted forms. Otherwise, don’t buy them.

Dwarf forms are ideal for growing in containers and for planting in miniature landscapes such as in railroad gardens, fairy gardens, or small urban gardens. Their cold hardiness makes them a great addition to large containers northern urban areas.

Growth assessments are based on 10 year averages. Expect dwarf forms to mature to less than one-third to one-half that of the species. Pruning of young plants may be needed to remove errant branches.

‘Chase Manhattan’– slow grower with small dark green cupped leaves on closely spaced branches; 3 feet tall and wide in 10 years.

‘Gnome’ – dark green leaves are densely packed on short internode thick muscular stems; miniature vertical form 5 feet tall by 2 feet wide in 10 years.

‘Gold Spire’ – intermediate size shrub or tree form; shear lightly the first 3-4 years to develop into a pyramidal tree form; 10-12 feet tall by 3-4 feet wide after 10 years.

‘Mariken’ – exceptionally slow growing, compact shrubby habit with a flat, rounded canopy; 2 feet tall by 3 feet wide after 10 years.

‘Spring Grove’ – a miniature tree form for urban landscapes; pyramidal when young and eventually globe shaped; 4 feet tall by 2 feet wide after 10 years.

‘Troll’ – unique dwarf male ginkgo with a tight, compact habit; 4 feet by 3 feet in 10 years.

These special ginkgoes are primarily available through mail order nurseries and specialty confer nurseries. One of the best sources  for dwarf ginkgo cultivars is Klehm’s Song Sparrow Nursery. Order on-line @ www.songsparrow.com

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Italian Arum Returns Every Autumn

Posted by Hugh on September 7th, 2015
Late spring Fruits of Arum italicum start green and turn orange-red

Late spring fruits of Arum italicum start green and turn orange-red

Italian arum (Arum italicum) is a long-lived woodland perennial native to Italy and much of the Mediterranean region. Several members of the arum family (Araceae), including this species, are also known as “Lords and Ladies”. It typically grows 9-18 inches tall (depending on location) and slowly spreads over many years.

Shoots first emerge from beneath the woodland leaf litter in autumn. The brightly-veined foliage appears when most perennials are entering winter dormancy. Long-petioled, shiny green, arrowhead-shaped leaves are 8-12 inches long with distinctive white netted venation. Italian arums grow best in medium moist, organically rich soils in part shade to full shade. Hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9, it also prospers in protected areas in zone 5.

In spring greenish to creamy yellow flowers (called “spathes”) emerge; they’re similar to flowers of jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema spp.). In summer stems, spadix portion of the flower is laden with green berries which ripen orange-red. Soon afterwards, it enters a dry summer dormancy period and completely disappears.

Italian arums form plant colonies and are long-lived. Leaves and the colorful berries are toxic and are deer and vole resistant. Plants are easy to dig up and divide in late winter. Mowing them down seems to make plants proliferate. Fertilizing clumps appear to be unnecessary if soil is humusy (from rotted leaves and debris) and soil moisture are plentiful.

Italian arum makes a perfect companion plant for shade loving summer perennials such as hostas, Solomon seals, astilbes, and ferns or winter add-ons with Lenten roses (hellebores). Italian arum is not susceptible to insect or disease problems and deer and voles stay away.

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Mid-Summer Blooming ‘Happy Days’ Sunflower

Posted by Hugh on September 4th, 2015
Helianthus 'Happy Days'

Helianthus ‘Happy Days’

Showy mid- to late-summer blooming

Showy mid- to late-summer blooming

The cheerful golden yellow flowers of Happy Days sunflower (Helianthus ‘Happy Days’) should brighten your garden during the waning days of summer (USDA hardiness zones 5-9).

This perennial sunflower has a long 4 to 6 week blooming period. In its first season new plants grow 24-30 inches tall and almost as wide. In subsequent years, tack on an additional 12-18 inches in height. Its small size makes it a good choice for a sunny garden  or container.

Helianthus ‘Happy Days’ produces long lasting 3 to 4 inch diameter golden yellow flowers. In the spring the plant forms an upright mound of broad lanceolate dark-green leaves. Floral stems arise with double anemone-like centers and short ray petals around the base. No staking is needed as flower stems are sturdy.

Happy Days sunflowers are at their best on an open, well-drained sunny site (minimum 5 hours of direct sunlight) and on moist, compost-rich, well-drained soils. Feed at planting time or in early spring with slow release fertilizer (examples: Osmocote™, Nutrikote™, or Milorganite™).

Cut old dead stems back to the ground in late fall or leave for winter interest. Every 3-4 years sunflowers form dense clumps that are best divided while still dormant in early spring. Digging and dividing old clumps greatly improves plant vigor.

Flowers are excellent for cutting. They attract butterflies and hummingbirds; rabbits usually leave sunflowers alone. Disease and insect problems are rare when sunflowers are properly sited. Sunflowers perform poorly winter soils are constantly wet or soggy.

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Fall Planting of Peonies

Posted by Hugh on September 1st, 2015

Spring Flowering Peonies Starts With Fall Planting

Spring Flowering Peonies Starts With Fall Planting


Fall is the perfect time to plant peonies either from bare-root plants or from pre-potted plants at garden centers. Fall planted peonies will adapt to their new garden spot over the winter and usually will bloom in the spring.

There are three types of peonies: herbaceous, tree, and intersectional (hybrids of herbaceous and tree types). Only herbaceous peonies will be discussed here. Plants are extremely long-lived, often surviving 50 to 70 years. Peonies are easy to grow if you follow three simple rules: 1. good site selection; 2. good soil preparation; and 3. proper planting depth.

Herbaceous peonies prefer cool summer climates from USDA hardiness zones 3 to 8. They require a sunny well-drained garden spot with a slightly acidic soil pH (between 6.0 to 7.0). If you live in a hot humid region, such as in the Southeastern U.S., shelter plants from direct afternoon sunlight. Plant right up until the ground freezes in the fall. Take advantage of the warm ground by planting early. Spring-planted peonies have a tougher time recovering compare to those planted in the fall.

Purchase large 3-5 eye divisions. Often, garden centers sell unsold spring potted stock at big discounts. Dig a wide hole, carefully remove the plant from the pot, and set in the hole at the same depth as in the pot. Poor soil drainage is the one enemy of peonies. The crown and roots will rot and the plant slowly dies. Amend the planting hole with organic compost and/or well-rotted manure to improve drainage and nutrition.

The eyes (buds) should be set no more than 1-2 inches below the soil surface. Planting too deeply will frequently prevent the plant from flowering. Shallow planting puts the buds at risk of mechanical or winter damage.

Peonies require little additional maintenance. In late winter feed 10-10-10 or equivalent granular fertilizer or a slow release organic-based fertilizer. Mulching around plants conserves soil moisture and reduces weeding. Irrigate newly planted peonies over the dry growing months. They become very drought tolerant after two years.

In the fall cutback all herbaceous peony stems to the ground. Old peony foliage may harbor fungal and bacterial diseases. Dispose of all plant material and do not compost.

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‘Purple Dome’ Aster Reliable In The Late Summer Garden

Posted by Hugh on August 30th, 2015
'Purple Dome' Aster

‘Purple Dome’ Aster

 

 

New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) is indigenous to a wide geographic area that encompasses moist prairies, meadows, valleys and stream banks in most Eastern and midwest states as far south to New Mexico. ‘Purple Dome’ is a very popular dwarf cultivar introduced by Dr. Richard Lighty, former director of Mt. Cuba Center in Greenville, Delaware. It grow 2  to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide.

Purple Dome bears dark purple flowers that blanket its low growing shrubby form from mid-August thru early October. That’s 4-6 weeks of sustainable purple color. Blooms measure 1 ½ inches across with prominent bright yellow centers. The flowers are covered with nectar hungry bees and butterflies. Unlike most New England aster cultivars, Purple Dome requires no pinching or staking.

The lance-shaped dark green leaves are rough, hairy on the surface, and up to 4 inch in length. Bloom clusters make excellent bouquets. New England asters are very durable, long-lived, and tolerant of wet soils. Plants should best divided every 2-3 years in early spring.

New England asters grow in average well-drained soil in full sun although prefer moist, compost-rich planting sites. They have no serious insect or disease problems. Good air circulation around plants reduces potential foliar diseases, particularly mildews. Aster wilt may be an occasional problem, particularly if plants are grown in poorly-drained clay soils. Plants showing aster wilt symptoms should be quickly removed from the garden. Plants are rabbit resistant.

Purple Dome asters come highly recommended for inclusion in native plant areas, prairie restorations, and in rain gardens. Gardeners should add Purple Dome asters to low flower borders.

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