What Grows There :: Hugh Conlon, Horticulturalist, Garden Advisor, and Photographer

Fountain Grass

Posted by Hugh on March 24th, 2025

Fountain grasses (P. alopecuroides) are perennial warm season grasses that are native to meadows and open woods of Eastern Asia (mainly China and Japan) and Western Australia. Cultivars hardiness ranges from zone 4 (5) – 10. These ornamental grasses have finely textured deep green foliage and elegant form. Leaves and flower spikes sway in the breeze, adding movement to the landscape.

Fountain grasses grow 12 – 48 inches tall, depending on the cultivar. Growth is upright at first, then the leaf blades arch downward at maturity, resembling a flowing fountain. The length and width of the long, tapering, subtly serrated blades vary greatly among cultivars. Leaves turn orange-bronze in autumn, eventually turning to a dull beige color, and offers late fall interest. Inflorescences do not persist as a snowy winter begins.

Fountain grass flower spikes are fuzzy-looking, bottle-brush-like inflorescences (inflorescences). In late summer showy, white to pink, copper or purple flower spikes emerge above the leaves. They’re particularly dramatic when backlit by the sun behind them. The inflorescences also do not last because seed heads begin to shatter after a few hard freezes in autumn.

Fountain grass is easily grown in most soils and performs best in full sun. It prefers moist, well-drained soils, but becomes drought tolerant once established. Plant the grass with the crown of the plant above ground level to avoid crown rot, especially in moist soils. Plantings may decline in very wet years or poorly drained soils. During dry periods, leaf blade tips may turn brown if not watered. Fountain grasses have few pest problems and are considered deer resistant.

As a warm season perennial grass, it doesn’t start growing until the ground has warmed up. Trim the grass to 3-6 inches above the ground before the new spring shoots appear. Every 3-5 years, depending on the vigor of the variety, divide and replant after shearing to rejuvenate clumps.

Use fountain grass as a specimen plant or as a focal point in smaller areas. In bigger gardens, use plants individually or in small groups with perennials and shrubs to provide a contrast of texture or massed in large groups as a tall ground cover. Early in the season fountain grasses do not stand out but their showy inflorescences offer a soft, fine texture and movement in a breeze.

Many varieties may self-seed readily (to the point of being weedy). Many do not always come true from seed. Remove seed heads before they shatter (burst open) if self-sowing is a concern. In colder climates this species never becomes invasive like it can in warmer areas. They look lovely coated in frost and dusted with snow.

Cultivars

‘Cassian’ has cream green tinted bottlebrush blooms turning a rich golden fall color with orange-red tints in fall; it grows about a foot taller than ‘Hameln’ in the South and is coarser textured. (Z 5/6-9).
‘Fox Trot’ grows much taller, with more rosy- or black-colored inflorescences. is an impressive ornamental grass with its 4-foot fountain shape of narrow, green foliage. In midsummer, stalks topped with four-inch, pink-tinted bottlebrush seedheads appear. The slightest breeze causes elegant movement (hardy to zone 4).
‘Hameln’ grows compact than the species (18-24 inches tall and wide), with bright green foliage and silvery-white flowers that bloom about 2 weeks earlier than the species. It does not reseed prolifically. (Z 5-9).
‘Little Bunny’ is a super dwarf form only 8 to 18 inches high and a spread of 10 to 15 inches; light cream-colored inflorescences appear 2 months earlier than species; russet golden color in fall. (Z 5-9).
‘Lumen Gold’ has globe-shape habit and bright golden foliage in spring, turning lemon in early summer, and light green by late summer. Grows 2.0 inches tall Plumes 6-12″ tall. (Z 6-9)
‘Moudry’ (P. alopecuroides var. viridescens), called “black fountain grass”, produces deep maroon upright inflorescences in late summer; mounding form, grows 2½ -3 feet tall and wide, with wide leaves. Blooms in late summer the flower heads mature a blackish purple color against golden yellow fall color. (Z 5b-9).
‘Piglet’ produces white (pink-tinged) inflorescence; dwarf only 1.5 inches tall (Z 5-9).
‘Red Head’ forms a large mound of arching green leaves. Soft smoky-pink colored, 8-inch bottlebrush flower spikes appear in mid to late summer, turning to buff as they dry. Begins flowering early; stays attractive well into the winter. (Z 5-9).

Clematis Care Notes

Posted by Hugh on March 17th, 2025

‘Jackman’ clematis at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

Clematis are popular flowering vines that come in various species and varieties, some of which are U.S. natives. They can be woody, deciduous vines or shrubs, and bloom in different seasons. Clematis vines produce spectacular flowers in shades of purple, pink, red, and white. Many clematis are vigorous growers and can reach 18 -20 feet tall. These beautiful flowering vines grow if you follow these simple steps for growing beautiful clematis in your own garden…

Unknown variety at Kingwood Center, Mansfield Ohio

1. Select the Right Planting Site – Clematis prefers full sun to grow and bloom properly. Grow in fertile, well-drained, and cool soil with a pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. That means provide cooling shade for the roots with mulch or low-growing perennials or groundcovers.

2. Provide Trellising Support – Many clematis are climbers and need support to grow. Use a trellis, fence, or any other vertical structure to support the plant. Add the support system before planting the clematis to avoid damaging the tender vine roots.

3. Mulch Around the Plant – organic mulches helps to retain soil moisture and cooling shade to roots. Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the base of the plant but avoid covering the stems.

4. Proper Pruning Is key – In early spring, cut back dead and weak stems to promote new growth. Prune lightly after the first blooming period to encourage a second round of blooms. (See pruning tips below).

5. Water Regularly to provide consistent moisture during the growing season. Water the plant deeply once a week, making sure to soak the soil around the roots. Avoid getting the foliage wet to prevent fungal diseases.

6. Fertilize Regularly – Use a balanced granular fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 in early spring and again in early summer or water-soluble 20-20-20 every 3 – 4 weeks. Do not overfertilize clematis; when in doubt whether to feed or not, DON’T!

7. Protect from Pests and Diseases such as aphids, spider mites, and powdery mildew. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil to control pests, and fungicides to prevent diseases.

8. Choose the Right Variety that is well-suited to your plant zone and growing conditions.

Clematis ‘Betty Corning’ at Kingwood Center, Mansfield, OH

Pruning Categories

Group 1 (Early Bloomers) bloom early in the season, so you can begin trimming, reshaping, cleaning, and deadhead vines shortly after they bloom; vines continue growing throughout the growing season and readies them for the next season. Very little pruning is required.

Group 2 (Early Summer Bloomers) produce flowers on the previous year’s growth and a second smaller flush of flowers later in the summer. Vines flower twice in a single year under ideal conditions.

In late winter or early spring when buds begin to swell, remove any broken, unruly, or dead vines from the plant. That’s it! Following spring blooming, cut back a third of last year’s growth to about 12 inches from the soil. Leave at least one strongly growing bud on each vine.

Group 3 (Midsummer through Fall Bloomers) includes an extensive collection of hybrids commonly found in retail centers. A popular example is Clematis jackmanii (shown above), which has large purple flowers. In early spring cut back old entire plants to about a foot above soil level; new growth will bring new flowers in late spring.

Winter Honeysuckle Totally Ignored In U.S. Landscapes

Posted by Hugh on March 10th, 2025

*Lonicera fragrantissima* at Biltmore Estates, Asheville, NC

Winter honeysuckle, aka fragrant honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) is a treasured heirloom shrub (USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8). Plantings of this late winter blooming large woody shrub are still found in historical (older) urban neighborhoods and city parks planted prior to the 1960’s.

This tough, durable shrub can reach 10+ feet tall and wide. You may opt to limb up its shaggy lower branches for show. The longevity of winter honeysuckle is incredible. If shrubs get out of control, cut the back to the ground after spring blooming is over. Vegetative cuttings root easily, and you can pass-along this old fashion shrub to gardening friends as it is rarely sold in garden centers.

Flowers are a harbinger of spring. Budded branches may be cut for an early, fragrant, indoor arrangement. In the southeastern U.S., small creamy flowers often emerge during a warm January – February spell. Winter honeysuckle continues to bloom on and off through March. Your nose will catch its sweet lemony fragrance. The deciduous blue green summer foliage offers no fall color. Further southern (zones 7 and 8), the foliage is almost evergreen.

Fragrant honeysuckle grows in average, dry to medium, well-drained soil, and in full sun to partial shade. This vigorous shrub asks for little care other that annual corrective pruning. Susceptible to a limited number of disease and pest issues, winter honeysuckle usually grows out it. Potential pests include aphids, scale, sawfly, whitefly, and webworm. Early native bees are especially glad to find it on winter days and are drawn to the pollen and nectar. If fruits (berries) are formed, hungry birds come and fest.

Yes, winter honeysuckle is a “true” honeysuckle and you should check whether if it is invasive in your state. It is not invasive in Tennessee and Virginia. Since it blooms so early in the year, e.g., compared to most honeysuckle species, few fruits (and seeds) form. North Carolina and Texas prohibit new plantings. Winters in southern locales are mild, it can seed-in prolifically.

Landscape use: clipped or informal hedge, screen or background border shrub.

Three Fun Bulbs In The Late Winter Garden

Posted by Hugh on March 6th, 2025

Three charming bulbous late winter bloomers add much-needed color to the garden at a time when most other plants are dormant.

Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata), called dwarf iris by many, is native to parts of Russia, Iran, and central Asia. This small vibrant Iris awakens in many gardens towards the end of winter. Its pre-spring blooms grow in many garden locations, and are wonderful additions to rock gardens, borders, or grow them beneath deciduous trees.

Iris reticulata have narrow, grass-like leaves. Iris flowers are usually purple or blue. Tubers are planted in late summer or early fall 3 inches deep and spaced 3 inches apart. Plants reach 4 – 6 inches tall and spread about 2 – 3 inches wide.

Reticulated Iris require only minimal care. Water moderately during blooming if nature is not supplying liquid precipitation in the form of rain or snow. This iris goes dormant later in spring in dry soil. Allow the soil to dry out once the plant becomes dormant. No fertilizer is needed. Bulbs are generally pest-free, it may be susceptible to bulb rot if planted in waterlogged soil. Parts of the Reticulated Iris may be toxic and harmful if consumed.

Snowdrop (Galanthus spp.) are grown in both cold and moderate winters. In the U.S. snowdrops thrive where winters are cool (USDA hardiness zones 3-8). There are about 19 species of Galanthus – in the amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). They’re native to the cool woodland and mountainous regions of southern Europe and Asia Minor. They tend to struggle in warm climes in the U.S. like south Texas and southern California.

Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) returns with floral beauty less than 3-4 months after fall planting. Tubers poke through the ground, grow and flower 3 – 6 inches high and wide. Bright yellow cup-shaped flowers appear in mid- to late winter. Green leaves emerge as the flowers begin to fade. All evidence of their presence disappears by late spring when bulbs go dormant.

Grow these early blooming gems in a loose, well-drained soil with lots of compost added. They don’t thrive in heavy clay soil. Once blooming is over, allow the foliage to yellow and wither away. All three bulbous plants naturalize easily. Every few years lift and divide crowded beds. They’re best divided immediately after flowering and replanted. Sow these bulbous gems in containers and gift some to garden friends. They are disease, insect and deer resistant, and critter-proof. All three are toxic to animals and humans; keep pets and children away.

Most local garden centers do not sell these tiny beauties. Purchase them from bulb emporiums like Brent and Becky’s Bulbs in Gloucester, VA or Longfeld Gardens in Lakewood, NJ.

Haworthias – Fun Care-Free Houseplants

Posted by Hugh on February 25th, 2025

Let’s look at haworthias (Haworthia spp.). Plant hobbiests rate them as fun collectables and ask for very little care. Haworthias have dark green leaves arranged in a rosette. Leaves are thick and fleshy and end in a pointed tip. Leaves feel leathery to the touch. These succulents are frequently sold as cacti at garden centers.

*Haworthia fasciata* planting at Longwood Gardens

They’re indigenous to South Africa, including Mozambique and Namibia, where they thrive in rocky soils in the shade of bushes and grasses. The fleshy green leaves of some species are generously covered with white pearly warts or bands, which makes them distinctive in a collection of house plants. They are as easy to grow as echeveria and aloe.

Haworthias are quite easy to grow as houseplants. Outdoors, these succulents generally do best in slightly shaded locations and not in full sunlight. In nature plants are often situated nearby the slight shade of a rock or another plant. They can tolerate direct morning sun, but harsh afternoon rays can burn their foliage. Indoors, haworthias do best near an east- or west-facing window. They can be grown in a variety of containers, best in clay pots with drainage holes.

Similarly, haworthias need adequate moisture in spring-summer with drier conditions in fall-winter. Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer in spring – summer when the plant is actively growing and do not nutrient-feed during the fall and winter months. Room humidity is not important. Provide room air circulation, so avoid very tight stagnant corners of the room.

Haworthias are grown in a loose sandy or gravelly soil with superior drainage. Utilize a cactus potting mix designated for succulent plants mix the soil with perlite, aquarium gravel, or coarse aggregate. Feed plants sparingly during the spring and summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer.

Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dried out during the spring and summer months; the soil should never become waterlogged. In the fall and winter, reduce watering to just enough to keep the leaves plump. Never permit water to collect in the rosette, as this can lead to root and crown rot.

Haworthia species like warm temperatures between 70 – 95 °F in the summer and cool temperatures down to 50 °F in winter. Plants can be damaged when temperatures fall to 40 °F and lower. Humidity isn’t an issue for this plant. Haworthias require is good air ventilation.

More than 100 species of haworthia are found around the world. The main difference among the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. Some popular species include:

H. margaritifera also called the pearl plant, is a clumping variety with white speckles on its tentacle-like leaves.
H. fasciata or “zebra haworthia”, has thick dark green leaves with horizontal white stripes.
H. bolusii is stemless with fleshy leaves that form a rosette. It is called the spiderweb haworthia due to the fine white hairs growing along the edges of its leaves. This species does best in full sun.
H. attenuata or “Wart Plant” features white wart-like pearls on both the top and the bottom of its long, pointed green leaves.
H. truncata or “horse teeth” has square, green leaves that grow in a fan shaped clump; white flowers in late spring.

Propagate haworthia plants is via its offsets (pups); these are the tiny offset plants growing from the base of a parent plant. Remove offsets, using a sharp knife or snips to cut as close to the parent stem as possible and include as many roots. Next, allow the offsets to dry for 1-2 days before potting them in a small pot using the same type of gravelly-based potting soil that the parent plant is growing in.

Horse Teeth (*Haworthia truncata*) at 2024 Philadelphia Flower Show

Haworthias are relatively free of most plant pests. Mealybugs are sap feeders and can be picked off, or swabbed with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, or an insecticidal spray. Fungus gnats may become troublesome when the soil is too moist or drainage is poor.

Earth Stars (Cryptanthus)

Posted by Hugh on February 18th, 2025

Cryptanthus bromeliads are more commonly known as “Earth Stars” and “Starfish plant”, a name they received because of the shape of their foliage. These mostly tropical plants are found in humid forested areas. Over 1,200 different varieties are cataloged worldwide and make great terrarium plants. Many flaunt beautiful foliage ranging from dark green, bright reds, pinks to silvery stripes. Many Cryptanthus hug the ground at only 2 – 3 inches high; others can range in sizes of 4 – 8 inches tall. (USDA hardiness zones 9-11).

Earth Stars grow in a well-drained house plant soil. In their natural habitat, the tree canopies under which they grow permit some diffused sunlight through. Plants thrive in moist media (potting soil) and medium to high room humidity. Specialty potting mixes are available at full-service garden centers. Alternatively, mix your own media with sand, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite.

Earth stars grow in bright indirect light and avoid direct sunlight. Water moderately but consistently, allowing the soils to almost dry on top before re-watering. Reduce watering from fall to late winter. Plants relish high humidity in summer, so consider setting plant in a humidified room or on moist pebbles. Propagate by stem or leaf cuttings. Cut back foliage as needed to maintain plant form. Fertilized monthly (March-October) with any house plant branded fertilizer including Miracle-Gro or Schultz at one-half the package rate.

*Cryptanthus zonatus* – 6 inches high & 12-14 inches wide

Like most bromeliads, Cryptanthus only bloom once during their lifespan. They bear small delicate white flowers near their leaves. Following up, the plant produces pups around the mother plant’s base. They can be removed and potted up in a peat-perlite potting soil. Pups may also form either at the end of stolons or at a leaf axis. Pups should remain attached until they are roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant after which they can be removed and potted. You may have to stake the pup until it develops sufficient roots to hold itself up.

Cryptanthus can survive in a wide range of temps, but they thrive best between 60 and 85°F. They are easy to grow indoors as well as outdoors in many moderate climates. Bring indoors in the fall and winter in temperate climates.

Most Cryptanthus varieties prefer indirect sunlight. In the summer seek shade nearby tall leafy yard trees. Exposure to a few hours of early morning sun often enhances leaf color(s) of earth stars. On the other side, direct sun will likely bleach or sunburned the foliage. If cryptanthus appear stressed, move them to a spot with less direct sunlight. Under inadequate light plant foliage appear drab and not very colorful.

Snake Plant – Ideal House Plant For Home & Office

Posted by Hugh on February 14th, 2025

Assorted snake plants on display at a garden center

Snake plants, aka mother-in-law plant, mother-in-law’s tongue, (Sansevieria trifasciata) are one of the most popular houseplants. (USDA hardiness zones 9-11). Native to Africa, the Asian subcontinent, and Madagascar, these hard to kill plants are beloved for their architectural shape, tolerate neglect, and filter stale room air (NASA study). Snake plants are remarkably drought- and low light- tolerant and often grown in office buildings. They are beloved for their architectural shape, tolerate neglect, and filter stale room air (NASA study).

Snake plants grow 2-5 feet tall depending on species and site location. Snake plants thrive with 8 -10 hours of indirect sunlight or 1-2 hours of early-morning direct sunlight. Excessive sunlight burns the foliage and heavy shade stunts growth and diminishes foliage color. Plants grow best in warm temperatures between 70 – 90°F and do not tolerate prolonged exposure to less than 40°F temps. Keep plants away from cold drafts around windows. Room humidity is optimum between 30 – 50%.

As a houseplant, snake plants prefer a loose, well-drained potting soil mix. Overwatering is the quickest way to kill a snake plant. Too much water or letting the plant sit in water will rot its root system. Leaf yellowing is an early sign of overwatering. Dust leaves at least monthly.

Feed your snake plant once in spring and once in mid-summer with a balanced, slow-release house plant fertilizer diluted to half strength. Do not fertilize in winter. Snake plants are propagated by cuttings or division spring or summer.

Repot your snake plant every 3-5 years, or when roots grow out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Grow in a sturdy ceramic, terracotta pot, or heavy-duty plastic pot. Repot snake plants when plants literally outgrow their containers; crowded offshoots can rip/tear containers apart. The best time to repot is in spring.

Snake plants rarely flower as indoor house plants. Creamy-white, tubular flowers emerge when environmental conditions are ideal. The night-blooming flowers are fragrant and similar in appearance to lilies.

Snake plants can spend summers outdoors. Bring plant(s) indoors as cool autumn weather approaches. During winter dormancy, reduce watering and allow soil to dry out every 7-10 days before rewatering.

Snake plants are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as scale, spider mites, aphids, gnats, mealybugs and whiteflies. Most pests can be removed with a moist rag or a gentle spray of water. Treat infestations with neem oil.

Wilting leaves or leaf loss is a symptom of overwatering and/or insufficient light, or poor potting material could result on eventual leaf loss. Select a brighter location, reduce watering frequency, and repot into new the potting soil.

In 2017-18 the genus Sansevieria was reclassified into the plant genus Dracaena by Botany taxonomists. In the past decade many new varieties have entered the world marketplace including some of these selections:

D. trifasciata ‘Hahnii’ is known as bird’s nest snake plant and grows to only 6 inches tall.
D. angolensi, aka S. clylndrica, has round stiff leaves that are several feet long arching outward from a central crown.
D. trifasciata ‘Laurentii’ is a variegated cultivar has creamy yellow leaf margins.
D. trifasciata ‘Bantel’s Sensation’ is a 3-feet tall popular favorite with white vertical stripes.
D. pearsonii, aka rhino grass, has thick, red-tinted leaves and grows to 12 inches tall.
D. x ‘Gold Dust’ grows 12-15 inches high; foliage is rosette of stiff sword shaped, thick vertical banded, light gold leaves with gray-green center stripe.

Chinese Paperbush (Edgeworthia)

Posted by Hugh on February 10th, 2025

If you garden in winter hardiness zones USDA zones 7 -10, Chinese paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha) should be a must-have winter flowering shrub. In my zone 6-b garden, my shrub struggled through its first winter and spring, but paperbush has never disappointed over its past 20 + years. A few gardeners living near me are also enjoying great success.

Paperbush is not difficult to grow and is fascinating to watch as cold temperatures moderate in early March. The uniquely nodding floral buds are clearly visible on branch tips in early fall. Fragrant flowers open in late February, weather permitting. The tubular clusters of flowers are light yellow on the inside and white on the outside. After a number of years roots may sucker new plants, forming a small plant colony.

Paperbush is a multi-stemmed 4-5 feet tall shrub with lovely greenish blue foliage. The new growth is coated with fur-like reddish brown hairs. Paperbush belongs in a woodsy environment under dappled shade in the summer and protected from prevailing winds.

Summer isn’t a downtime for the paper bush. After it finishes blooming, paperbush cloaks itself with velvety soft foliage reminiscent of tibouchina or plumeria. Long, narrow, blue-green leaves are almost tropical looking and measure up to 10-inches long.

At the start of autumn, new drooping, rounded flower buds are forming, covered with silky, silvery hairs atop of naked stems. When sunlight hits the buds, the paper bush seems to bloom already. The flower buds grow in size and prominence most of the winter.

By late winter, flower clusters have popped open to reveal pendant clusters of dainty white tubular blooms on the outside, tipped with yellow. Its sweet fragrance reminds you that paper bush is akin to winter daphne. Flowering lasts 4 to 6 weeks, sometimes longer.

Paperbush is hard to find for sale at family-owned garden centers. You definitely should search this collector’s plant at e-commerce nurseries which sell out quickly. A number of cultivars are entering the marketplace, some at steeply high prices.

Cultivars:

‘Snow Cream’: Boasting large clusters of highly fragrant, golden-yellow flowers, this variety is supposedly more cold-hardy than regular paper bush (down to 0°F).
‘Akebono’ (‘Red Dragon’): This variety features orange-red flowers in late winter and spring and grows slower and more compact than other species. grow 8 feet high and wide. (zones 7b-10).
‘Grandiflora’: species with the largest flowers.
‘Ruby Splash’: This variety is rare and contains red flowers.

Lots of Choices Growing Monstera

Posted by Hugh on February 2nd, 2025

*Monstera deliciosa* – often called Split-leaf philodendron

In recent years, Monstera plants have become wildly popular house plants. They’re indigenous to tropical areas of Central and South America. Approximately 50 different species are available at plant shoppes or online. It is an understory plant that grow in the shade of tropical trees and other vegetation.

Plants prefer filtered indirect light and avoid full direct sunlight. If plants get leggy, adjust the light setting for your monstera. Some varieties can take nearly full 1/2-day morning sun indoors. Contrarily, some variegated foliage types can burn in bright room light.

Monstera plants prefer a well-drained organic medium for most other tropicals at plant shoppes. Plants also produce aerial root systems that may take root in potting mix.

Plants prefer temperatures from 60° – 85°F and moderate humidity levels around 40- 50% for optimum growth. Daily misting of foliage and exposed air roots will raise room humidity levels. Wipe leaves monthly with a damp cloth to remove dust.

Feed @ 50% fertilizer strength (read package directions) once monthly and hold back feeding during the winter months.

Prune Monsteras to encourage new growth, limit plant height, and remove old, damaged foliage.

Monsteras can be propagated in water, peat-perlite mix, air layering, and root division. Grow it in a hanging basket as a cascading plant or trellised on single osmunda, coir, or moss trellis pole.

Popular Monstera Species:

Monstera deliciosa Split-leaf philodendron or “Swiss cheese plant”, – large, rounded leaves full of holes; slow-grower climber or creeping stem that is often trellised.

Monstera adansonii, – another “Swiss cheese plant” – oval to heart shape leaves, with about 5 holes per leaf; grows only 3 to 5 feet high.

Monstera epipremnoides – grows tall with big leaves and perforated leaves that drape over one another.

Monstera obliqua, aka Swiss Cheese plant, – a rare, slow-growing form with large holes in the leaves form.

M deliciosa alba borsigiana – variegated form highly coveted for its large white bands that contrast with the green foliage; leaves burn easily compared to solid green forms.

M. deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ -fast-growing variety with vining stems with small, variegated foliage that is splashed and speckled.

Caution: plant sap can cause irritation to the skin, eyes, mouth, and digestive tract; wear gloves when pruning and wash your hands thoroughly after handling the plant.

*Monstera obliqu*a or Swiss Cheese Plant

Slipper Orchids (Paphiopedilum)

Posted by Hugh on January 28th, 2025

Slipper orchids (Paphiopedilum spp.) are a type of terrestrial orchid known for their pouch-shaped petals that resemble a dainty slipper. Paphs are low light tropicals. Unlike epiphytic orchids, which grow in trees in the humid tropics, these orchids grow on the floor of forests in their native Southeastern Asia.

Paphs are relatively easy to grow indoors as houseplants and thrive with high humidity, medium indirect light, and moist soil. According to the Atlanta Botanical Gardens, most slipper orchids like night temps between 58° and 62°F. and daytime temps between 70° to 85°F and like moderately humid environments ranging anywhere from 40-70% humidity. Use a small room humidifier or set the plant(s) atop a tray filled with moistened pebbles. Never leave the pot sitting in water.

Paphs should be place with medium indirect light. Indirect light from an east-facing window is ideal. You can also put your paphs near a south-facing or west-facing window as long as they’re shaded by a sheer curtain. Plant in a fine fir bark/peat moss/perlite potting media, well-drained growing medium and water once or twice weekly. Use tepid, room temperature water). Paphs are not drought tolerant.

Fertilize with a balanced orchid fertilizer after each watering. Diluted to one-quarter strength fertilizer once weekly. Once per month, flush the growing medium well by running water through the pot for 10-12 seconds to help wash away excess salts.

Paph Orchid at Biltmore Estates Conservatory, Asheville, NC

Lady slipper orchids typically bloom between fall and late winter, depending on the variety. There are several types of paphiopedilum orchids, including the mottled leaf paphs (called ‘Maudiae’ hybrids). They have light green leaves dotted with dark green splotches and bloom with one or two long-lasting flowers once annually. Maudiae prefer warm temperatures and require less light than other lady slipper types, making them easier to grow indoors.

Generally, repot paphs every 2 years, usually when plants are crowded and/or need dividing. New growth usually appears in spring—never during flowering. A good orchid mix contains fine fir bark, peat moss, and perlite. Paphs can be grown in plastic or clay pots. Utilize clean sharp pruners or shears. Once your plant has finished blooming, usually after 6-8 weeks, cut off the old floral spike down to the leaves. It should bloom again in about a year.

Paphs are susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mealybugs and scale. Overwatering plants can result in root rot and eventual death. Yellow leaves can be a symptom of overwatering.