Tall Sedums In Your Garden

Hylotelephium ‘Matrona’

Sedums are clumping, perennial succulents in the stonecrop family (Crassulaceae) and are mostly native to China and Korea. Depending on variety, plants discussed in this blog are tall-growing mound forms that grow 1 to 2 feet high and wide. Botanical nomenclature has changed and is a bit confusing. Sedum genus, now Hylotelephium, contains many of the tall forms. Tall sedums are sustainable garden dynamos, both a beautiful plant weather wise perennial plant. This garden blog shows off five (5) of my favorites.

Tall sedums are both easy to grow and low maintenance. It can be grown as a houseplant, ground cover, or in containers. They are easy to grow indoors with bright direct light from a window or grow light. Use a coarse, well-drained soil, preferably a cactus mix. They are at their best in full sun or partial shade and a well-drained garden soil or potting media. Sedums tolerates rocky and poor soils, establish quickly, and are heat tolerant. The succulent leaves make it drought tolerant. Flowers attract bees and butterflies, plus deer and rabbits tend to avoid sedums.

Pests and diseases are rarely troublesome, including slugs and snails. Taller sedum species with large flower heads are susceptible to flopping. Site in full sun and pinch back in spring to develop thick sturdy stems. Let dried flower heads remain to provide a wildlife seed source plus winter interest.

Sedums require full or partial sun (minimum of 4 hour or more direct sun and a well-drained gravelly soil with average to low fertility. Many sedums will suffer if planted in overly moist or fertile soils. To maintain a bushy shape and thick stems, cut or pinch back the stems in early spring. If pruned in summer, the showy blooms may be delayed. It is drought- and salt-tolerant, Sedums are easily rooted from stem cuttings. 

Plant singly as a specimen or in small groups in rock or crevice gardens. Sedums grow well in containers (indoors or outdoors), in front borders, along a foundation, near a patio or pool hardscape, or alongside walkways. Their showy flowers, succulent leaves, and floral nectar attract songbirds, hummingbirds, butterflies and other insect pollinators.

These five (5) selections are among the finest for four season garden interest:

Hylotelephium ‘Herbstfreude’ (‘Autumn Joy’)

Hylotelephium ‘Herbstfreude’ (‘Autumn Joy’) large 24 inches tall and wide; gray-green, more toothed foliage; light green stems; dome shaped gray green.

These two Autumn Joy look-a-likes are worthy of mention: (1) ‘Autumn Fire’ — grows more compact and requires no pinching or staking, and (2) ‘T-Rex’ — has sturdier stems, 2-3 feet tall, with more pronounced teeth along leaf edges.

Hylotelephium spectabile ‘Brilliant’ grows 18-24 inches tall and wide; spectacular flat dome, 3-4 inches wide pink flowers; recommend 1-2 extra feedings of water-soluble fertilizer during summer to darken pink flowers and foliage. Highly disease resistant.

Sedum telephium ‘Matrona’ – 24-32 inches tall x 18 inches wide plant; extra-thick, gray-green large foliage with some purple highlights and medium-sized flower cluster. (Zones 3-9).

Sedum ‘Dark Magic’ (photo provided by Terra Nova Nursery)

Hylotelephium spectabile ‘Dark Magic’ grows 12 inches tall and 15-20 inches wide. Big, deep pink flower clusters bloom on short, upright stems of high gloss, purple-black foliage from late summer into fall. Small, star-shaped flowers are 7 inches wide.

Sedum telephium x ‘Bertram Anderson’– 6-8 inches tall x 12-15 inches wide plant with gray foliage. Starts out with erect foliage; loose flower clusters in late summer, ruby carpels and pink petals above dark-hued foliage. (Zones 4-9).

Source: “The Plant Lover’s Guide To Sedums” by Brent Horvath, Kew Botanical Garden series.

Plant Empress Tree Along Roadsides

Empress tree (Paulownia tomentosa) is a fast-growing shade tree, in some years adding 4-5 feet of new growth annually. In general, this tree is not recommended for planting in landscapes. This is a weedy and messy tree and is listed as an invasive species in many states. Paulownia eventually to reach heights of 40-50 feet and width of 20-30 feet in 25 years. (USDA hardiness zone 5-9).

Paulownia Tree in Late April – Early May Flowering

In the first 3-4 years, juvenile trees develop enormous size leaves. Once trees start producing flowers (adult stage), leaves are alot smaller, although still bigger that most oaks or maples. Some gardeners emphasize its lush tropical greenery by cutting back young trees every 1-3 years to show off the grand sized foliage. By doing so, they avoid flower formation which results in seeds and lots more sapling trees in the neighborhood. 

Showy upright clusters of lavender flowers measure 14 or more inches across and are beautiful, although most are hidden within the bulky spring foliage. The large, velvety looking leaves resemble catalpa tree leaves.

Seed capsules in Fall

Individual 1.5-2 inch long tube-like blossoms are vanilla scented and edible. Woody brown seed capsules follow in the fall; the capsules split open to reveal winged seeds.

Paulownia survives in a range of soils including low fertility and high acidity sites, and in partial to full sun. As a shade tree, it forms a wide canopy of dense shade, creating too much competition for most ground covers to survive. Paulownia is resistant to most urban air pollutants.

Insects, Diseases, and Other Plant Problems:  Frost damage to early spring flower buds is possible.  Plant experts rate paulownia trees as weedy, messy, weak wood and invasive species. Seed heads form in summer and the ripened seed fall in late October. According to University of Tennessee forestry experts: “some 90% of paulownia seeds are not viable, yet many states list the tree as invasive”.

In Asia, paulownia wood is highly prized… manufactured into paper, veneer, hand-carvings, clogs, musical instruments, furniture, rice pots, water pails, bowls, and spoons. Some U.S. growers export the wood to Asia. Paulownia has also some medicinal uses in Asia.

Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, PA has an attractive allee near the Conservatory.

Paulownia allee at Longwood Gardens

Oakleaf Hydrangeas

Oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) is an upright, broad-rounded, suckering, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub. In the wild oakleafs may grow 20 feet tall, but popular landscape cultivars typically grow 4-8 feet) tall. It is a wonderful shrub with multi-season interest. This Southeastern U.S. native shrub tolerates hot, humid weather and is not as winter hardy as some other popular hydrangea species (USDA hardiness zones 5-9).

In the 6-10 feet range:

‘Snow Queen’ flourishes with 4- to 12- inch-long creamy white double floral panicles in early summer that finish with a pinkish tint 6-8 weeks later in cooler northerly climes. Its red to burgundy fall leaf color is exceptional.

‘Snowflake’ is a popular standout for its double white panicles mostly showy sterile flowers. Shrub grows 5-8 feet tall and as wide and blooms in June for 6-8 weeks, gradually fading to pink and later to brown in late summer. Distinctive, deeply lobed, deep green oak-like leaves measure 8-inch long and are coarse textured.

‘Alice’ oakleaf hydrangea

‘Alice’, the largest of the three, struts 10- to 14-inch white-then-rose flowers. Alice was introduced by Dr. Michael Dirr. The shrub averages 6 to 8 feet in height but can reach 12 feet tall and wide in the South.

In the 3-6 feet range:

‘Pee Wee’ produces white flowers that turn pink in autumn. Shrub grows 4 feet high and 3 feet wide. White spring flowers fade to pink in early fall; its oak-leaf like foliage stays deep green through summer and turns bright red in early autumn.

Sike’s Dwarf’ is a dwarf mounded cultivar that matures to only 2-3 feet tall and to 3-4 feet wide. Its leaves and flower panicles are smaller. Elongated, conical white flower panicles (to 3-4″ long) of showy, mostly sterile, white flowers and gradually fade to light pink and then turn brown by late summer Its deep green, oak-like leaves (to 5” long) turn attractive shades of bronze, maroon and purple in autumn.

‘Ruby Slippers’ is a U.S. National Arboretum release. ‘Pee Wee’ is one of its parents. Large flower clusters emerge white, turn light pink, and mature to ruby red. Leaves turn deep mahogany red in fall. It typically grows 3-4 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide.

‘Ruby Slippers’ oakleaf hydrangea

‘Munchkin’, another U.S. National Arboretum introduction, grows compact to 3 to 4 ½ feet tall and wide with rounded form and dark green leaves that turn deep burgundy in fall. Large clusters of white flowers stand upright above the leaves and later age to pink.

Gatsby Gal® is a semi-dwarf oakleaf hydrangea that grows 5-6 feet tall and wide. Its green, oak-shaped foliage and large fragrant blooms in summer, outstanding fall color.

Gatsby Pink® grows 6-8 feet tall and boasts big, showy blooms that quickly transform from pure white to pink.

‘Little Honey’ is a petite grower with green-yellow leaves and snow-white cone-shaped flowers. Flowers are secondary to its standout chartreuse foliage. It grows 3-4 feet tall and 4-5 feet wide and performs best in full sun in northerly areas and in partial sun to partial shade in the mid-South. The aging flowers turn crimson at early autumn.

‘Little Honey’ oakleaf hydrangea

Patio Peach

For small garden spaces, including large containers, patio peach (Prunus persica) is a gem. This miniature tree bears long narrow lush green (or reddish) foliage. Site selection is crucial to ward off potential disease and insect problems.

Prunus persica ‘NC 19 Dwarf Double Red’ at JC Raulston Arboretum, Raleigh, NC

In the mood for tasty peach cobbler? Patio peach is a genetic dwarf and may be grown in a large container on your deck or patio. Tree height averages 6-8 feet tall but many varieties may be shorter or taller. Fruit size on true genetically dwarf trees are less than 3 inches. Those varieties that produce fruits must receive 400-500 hours of chilling temps below 32° F) over winter.

Grow in moist, well-drained, mildly acidic soil and maintain 2-inch mulch layer. Irrigate tree every 7-10 days if natural rainfall amount is deficit. The tree should receive full to partial sun (6 hours minimum) with good air movement to thwart major disease problems. Insect problems also abound with peaches.

Patio peach is glorious in bloom in early spring. Open blossoms are frequently injured by overnight frosts. Depending on the cultivar, red, pink, or salmon flowers are mildly fragrant. Weather cooperating, native bees and early arriving butterflies will pollinate blossoms. The mostly inedible peach-like fruits mature in summer and are mostly hidden from view by the dense foliage.

Feed landscape-grown trees with granular 10-10-10 or equivalent in early spring. Container-grown trees are best fertilized bi-monthly (3 times a year) with water soluble fertilizers such as Miracle-Gro™, Nature’s Source™, or Schultz™. Do not fertilize after August 15th. Irrigate tree(s) during summer dry spells. Prune patio peach immediately after spring flowering; remove dead, broken or diseased branches at any time.

Patio Peach (Cultivar unknown)

Inspect peach tree(s) weekly from spring into early summer (April thru early July) for wood borers and scale insects, particularly on the lower scaffold branches and main trunk. Treat with preventative insecticides every two weeks such as Bayer Advanced Garden Insecticide™ to prevent peach twig borer, aphids, and spider mites. Also, patio peach trees are susceptible to numerous disease problems, including peach scab, peach leaf curl, leaf spots, bacterial canker, root rot, and mildew.

Fountain Grass

Fountain grass (P. alopecuroides ‘Cassian’)

Fountain grasses (P. alopecuroides) are perennial warm season grasses that are native to meadows and open woods of Eastern Asia (mainly China and Japan) and Western Australia. Cultivars hardiness ranges from zone 4 (5) – 10. These ornamental grasses have finely textured deep green foliage and elegant form. Leaves and flower spikes sway in the breeze, adding movement to the landscape.

Fountain grasses grow 12 – 48 inches tall, depending on the cultivar. Growth is upright at first, then the leaf blades arch downward at maturity, resembling a flowing fountain. The length and width of the long, tapering, subtly serrated blades vary greatly among cultivars. Leaves turn orange-bronze in autumn, eventually turning to a dull beige color, and offers late fall interest. Inflorescences do not persist as a snowy winter begins.

Fountain grass flower spikes are fuzzy-looking, bottle-brush-like inflorescences (inflorescences). In late summer showy, white to pink, copper or purple flower spikes emerge above the leaves. They’re particularly dramatic when backlit by the sun behind them. The inflorescences also do not last because seed heads begin to shatter after a few hard freezes in autumn.

Fountain grass is easily grown in most soils and performs best in full sun. It prefers moist, well-drained soils, but becomes drought tolerant once established. Plant the grass with the crown of the plant above ground level to avoid crown rot, especially in moist soils. Plantings may decline in very wet years or poorly drained soils. During dry periods, leaf blade tips may turn brown if not watered. Fountain grasses have few pest problems and are considered deer resistant.

As a warm season perennial grass, it doesn’t start growing until the ground has warmed up. Trim the grass to 3-6 inches above the ground before the new spring shoots appear. Every 3-5 years, depending on the vigor of the variety, divide and replant after shearing to rejuvenate clumps.

Use fountain grass as a specimen plant or as a focal point in smaller areas. In bigger gardens, use plants individually or in small groups with perennials and shrubs to provide a contrast of texture or massed in large groups as a tall ground cover. Early in the season fountain grasses do not stand out but their showy inflorescences offer a soft, fine texture and movement in a breeze.

Many varieties may self-seed readily (to the point of being weedy). Many do not always come true from seed. Remove seed heads before they shatter (burst open) if self-sowing is a concern. In colder climates this species never becomes invasive like it can in warmer areas. They look lovely coated in frost and dusted with snow.

Pennisetum ‘Lumen Gold’

Cultivars

  • ‘Cassian’ has cream green tinted bottlebrush blooms turning a rich golden fall color with orange-red tints in fall; it grows about a foot taller than ‘Hameln’ in the South and is coarser textured. (Z 5/6-9).
  • ‘Fox Trot’ grows much taller, with more rosy- or black-colored inflorescences. is an impressive ornamental grass with its 4-foot fountain shape of narrow, green foliage. In midsummer, stalks topped with four-inch, pink-tinted bottlebrush seedheads appear. The slightest breeze causes elegant movement (hardy to zone 4).
  • ‘Hameln’ grows compact than the species (18-24 inches tall and wide), with bright green foliage and silvery-white flowers that bloom about 2 weeks earlier than the species. It does not reseed prolifically. (Z 5-9).
  • ‘Little Bunny’ is a super dwarf form only 8 to 18 inches high and a spread of 10 to 15 inches; light cream-colored inflorescences appear 2 months earlier than species; russet golden color in fall. (Z 5-9).
  • ‘Lumen Gold’ has globe-shape habit and bright golden foliage in spring, turning lemon in early summer, and light green by late summer.  Grows 2.0 inches tall Plumes 6-12″ tall. (Z 6-9)
  • ‘Moudry’ (P. alopecuroides var. viridescens), called “black fountain grass”, produces deep maroon upright inflorescences in late summer; mounding form, grows 2½ -3 feet tall and wide, with wide leaves. Blooms in late summer the flower heads mature a blackish purple color against golden yellow fall color. (Z 5b-9).
  • ‘Piglet’ produces white (pink-tinged) inflorescence; dwarf only 1.5 inches tall (Z 5-9).
  • ‘Red Head’ forms a large mound of arching green leaves. Soft smoky-pink colored, 8-inch bottlebrush flower spikes appear in mid to late summer, turning to buff as they dry. Begins flowering early; stays attractive well into the winter. (Z 5-9).
P. alopecuroides ‘Piglet’

Clematis Care Notes

‘Jackman’ clematis at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

Clematis are popular flowering vines that come in various species and varieties, some of which are U.S. natives. They can be woody, deciduous vines or shrubs, and bloom in different seasons. Clematis vines produce spectacular flowers in shades of purple, pink, red, and white. Many clematis are vigorous growers and can reach 18 -20 feet tall. These beautiful flowering vines grow if you follow these simple steps for growing beautiful clematis in your own garden…

Unknown variety at Kingwood Center, Mansfield Ohio

1. Select the Right Planting Site – Clematis prefers full sun to grow and bloom properly. Grow in fertile, well-drained, and cool soil with a pH level between 6.0 and 7.0. That means provide cooling shade for the roots with mulch or low-growing perennials or groundcovers.

2. Provide Trellising Support – Many clematis are climbers and need support to grow. Use a trellis, fence, or any other vertical structure to support the plant. Add the support system before planting the clematis to avoid damaging the tender vine roots.

3. Mulch Around the Plant – organic mulches helps to retain soil moisture and cooling shade to roots. Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch around the base of the plant but avoid covering the stems.

4. Proper Pruning Is key – In early spring, cut back dead and weak stems to promote new growth. Prune lightly after the first blooming period to encourage a second round of blooms. (See pruning tips below).

5. Water Regularly to provide consistent moisture during the growing season. Water the plant deeply once a week, making sure to soak the soil around the roots. Avoid getting the foliage wet to prevent fungal diseases.

6. Fertilize Regularly – Use a balanced granular fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 in early spring and again in early summer or water-soluble 20-20-20 every 3 – 4 weeks. Do not overfertilize clematis; when in doubt whether to feed or not, DON’T!

7. Protect from Pests and Diseases such as aphids, spider mites, and powdery mildew. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil to control pests, and fungicides to prevent diseases.

8. Choose the Right Variety that is well-suited to your plant zone and growing conditions.

Clematis ‘Betty Corning’ at Kingwood Center, Mansfield, OH

Pruning Categories

Group 1 (Early Bloomers) bloom early in the season, so you can begin trimming, reshaping, cleaning, and deadhead vines shortly after they bloom; vines continue growing throughout the growing season and readies them for the next season. Very little pruning is required.

Group 2 (Early Summer Bloomers) produce flowers on the previous year’s growth and a second smaller flush of flowers later in the summer. Vines flower twice in a single year under ideal conditions.

In late winter or early spring when buds begin to swell, remove any broken, unruly, or dead vines from the plant. That’s it! Following spring blooming, cut back a third of last year’s growth to about 12 inches from the soil. Leave at least one strongly growing bud on each vine.

Group 3 (Midsummer through Fall Bloomers) includes an extensive collection of hybrids commonly found in retail centers. A popular example is Clematis jackmanii (shown above), which has large purple flowers. In early spring cut back old entire plants to about a foot above soil level; new growth will bring new flowers in late spring.

Winter Honeysuckle Totally Ignored In U.S. Landscapes

Lonicera fragrantissima at Biltmore Estates, Asheville, NC

Winter honeysuckle, aka fragrant honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) is a treasured heirloom shrub (USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8). Plantings of this late winter blooming large woody shrub are still found in historical (older) urban neighborhoods and city parks planted prior to the 1960’s.

This tough, durable shrub can reach 10+ feet tall and wide. You may opt to limb up its shaggy lower branches for show. The longevity of winter honeysuckle is incredible. If shrubs get out of control, cut the back to the ground after spring blooming is over. Vegetative cuttings root easily, and you can pass-along this old fashion shrub to gardening friends as it is rarely sold in garden centers.

Flowers are a harbinger of spring. Budded branches may be cut for an early, fragrant, indoor arrangement. In the southeastern U.S., small creamy flowers often emerge during a warm January – February spell. Winter honeysuckle continues to bloom on and off through March. Your nose will catch its sweet lemony fragrance. The deciduous blue green summer foliage offers no fall color. Further southern (zones 7 and 8), the foliage is almost evergreen.

Fragrant honeysuckle

Fragrant honeysuckle grows in average, dry to medium, well-drained soil, and in full sun to partial shade. This vigorous shrub asks for little care other that annual corrective pruning. Susceptible to a limited number of disease and pest issues, winter honeysuckle usually grows out it. Potential pests include aphids, scale, sawfly, whitefly, and webworm. Early native bees are especially glad to find it on winter days and are drawn to the pollen and nectar. If fruits (berries) are formed, hungry birds come and fest.

Yes, winter honeysuckle is a “true” honeysuckle and you should check whether if it is invasive in your state. It is not invasive in Tennessee and Virginia. Since it blooms so early in the year, e.g., compared to most honeysuckle species, few fruits (and seeds) form. North Carolina and Texas prohibit new plantings. Winters in southern locales are mild, it can seed-in prolifically.

Landscape use: clipped or informal hedge, screen or background border shrub.

Three Fun Bulbs In The Late Winter Garden

Three charming bulbous late winter bloomers add much-needed color to the garden at a time when most other plants are dormant.

Reticulated iris (Iris reticulata), called dwarf iris by many, is native to parts of Russia, Iran, and central Asia. This small vibrant Iris awakens in many gardens towards the end of winter. Its pre-spring blooms grow in many garden locations, and are wonderful additions to rock gardens, borders, or grow them beneath deciduous trees.

I. reticulata ‘Rhapsody’

Iris reticulata have narrow, grass-like leaves. Iris flowers are usually purple or blue. Tubers are planted in late summer or early fall 3 inches deep and spaced 3 inches apart. Plants reach 4 – 6 inches tall and spread about 2 – 3 inches wide.

Reticulated Iris require only minimal care. Water moderately during blooming if nature is not supplying liquid precipitation in the form of rain or snow. This iris goes dormant later in spring in dry soil. Allow the soil to dry out once the plant becomes dormant. No fertilizer is needed. Bulbs are generally pest-free, it may be susceptible to bulb rot if planted in waterlogged soil. Parts of the Reticulated Iris may be toxic and harmful if consumed.

Snowdrop (Galanthus spp.) are grown in both cold and moderate winters. In the U.S. snowdrops thrive where winters are cool (USDA hardiness zones 3-8). There are about 19 species of Galanthus – in the amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). They’re native to the cool woodland and mountainous regions of southern Europe and Asia Minor. They tend to struggle in warm climes in the U.S. like south Texas and southern California.

Snowdrop planting

Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) returns with floral beauty less than 3-4 months after fall planting. Tubers poke through the ground, grow and flower 3 – 6 inches high and wide. Bright yellow cup-shaped flowers appear in mid- to late winter. Green leaves emerge as the flowers begin to fade. All evidence of their presence disappears by late spring when bulbs go dormant.

Eranthis (Winter aconite)

Grow these early blooming gems in a loose, well-drained soil with lots of compost added. They don’t thrive in heavy clay soil. Once blooming is over, allow the foliage to yellow and wither away. All three bulbous plants naturalize easily. Every few years lift and divide crowded beds. They’re best divided immediately after flowering and replanted. Sow these bulbous gems in containers and gift some to garden friends. They are disease, insect and deer resistant, and critter-proof. All three are toxic to animals and humans; keep pets and children away.

Most local garden centers do not sell these tiny beauties. Purchase them from bulb emporiums like Brent and Becky’s Bulbs in Gloucester, VA or Longfeld Gardens in Lakewood, NJ.

Haworthias – Fun Care-Free Houseplants

Let’s look at haworthias (Haworthia spp.). Plant hobbiests rate them as fun collectables and ask for very little care. Haworthias have dark green leaves arranged in a rosette. Leaves are thick and fleshy and end in a pointed tip. Leaves feel leathery to the touch. These succulents are frequently sold as cacti at garden centers.

Haworthia fasciata planting at Longwood Gardens

They’re indigenous to South Africa, including Mozambique and Namibia, where they thrive in rocky soils in the shade of bushes and grasses. The fleshy green leaves of some species are generously covered with white pearly warts or bands, which makes them distinctive in a collection of house plants. They are as easy to grow as echeveria and aloe.

Haworthias are quite easy to grow as houseplants. Outdoors, these succulents generally do best in slightly shaded locations and not in full sunlight. In nature plants are often situated nearby the slight shade of a rock or another plant. They can tolerate direct morning sun, but harsh afternoon rays can burn their foliage. Indoors, haworthias do best near an east- or west-facing window. They can be grown in a variety of containers, best in clay pots with drainage holes.

Similarly, haworthias need adequate moisture in spring-summer with drier conditions in fall-winter. Fertilize with a water-soluble fertilizer in spring – summer when the plant is actively growing and do not nutrient-feed during the fall and winter months. Room humidity is not important. Provide room air circulation, so avoid very tight stagnant corners of the room.

Haworthias are grown in a loose sandy or gravelly soil with superior drainage. Utilize a cactus potting mix designated for succulent plants mix the soil with perlite, aquarium gravel, or coarse aggregate. Feed plants sparingly during the spring and summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer.

Zebra haworthia (Haworthia fasciata)

Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dried out during the spring and summer months; the soil should never become waterlogged. In the fall and winter, reduce watering to just enough to keep the leaves plump. Never permit water to collect in the rosette, as this can lead to root and crown rot.

Haworthia species like warm temperatures between 70 – 95 °F in the summer and cool temperatures down to 50 °F in winter. Plants can be damaged when temperatures fall to 40 °F and lower. Humidity isn’t an issue for this plant. Haworthias require is good air ventilation.

More than 100 species of haworthia are found around the world. The main difference among the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. Some popular species include:

  • H. margaritifera  also called the pearl plant, is a clumping variety with white speckles on its tentacle-like leaves.
  • H. fasciata or “zebra haworthia”, has thick dark green leaves with horizontal white stripes.
  • H. bolusii is stemless with fleshy leaves that form a rosette. It is called the spiderweb haworthia due to the fine white hairs growing along the edges of its leaves. This species does best in full sun.
  • H. attenuata or “Wart Plant” features white wart-like pearls on both the top and the bottom of its long, pointed green leaves.
  • H. truncata or “horse teeth” has square, green leaves that grow in a fan shaped clump; white flowers in late spring.

Propagate haworthia plants is via its offsets (pups); these are the tiny offset plants growing from the base of a parent plant. Remove offsets, using a sharp knife or snips to cut as close to the parent stem as possible and include as many roots. Next, allow the offsets to dry for 1-2 days before potting them in a small pot using the same type of gravelly-based potting soil that the parent plant is growing in.

Horse Teeth (Haworthia truncata) at 2024 Philadelphia Flower Show

Haworthias are relatively free of most plant pests. Mealybugs are sap feeders and can be picked off, or swabbed with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, or an insecticidal spray. Fungus gnats may become troublesome when the soil is too moist or drainage is poor.

Earth Stars (Cryptanthus)

Cryptanthus bromeliads are more commonly known as “Earth Stars” and “Starfish plant”, a name they received because of the shape of their foliage. These mostly tropical plants are found in humid forested areas. Over 1,200 different varieties are cataloged worldwide and make great terrarium plants. Many flaunt beautiful foliage ranging from dark green, bright reds, pinks to silvery stripes. Many Cryptanthus hug the ground at only 2 – 3 inches high; others can range in sizes of 4 – 8 inches tall. (USDA hardiness zones 9-11).

Cryptanthus ‘Elaine’

Earth Stars grow in a well-drained house plant soil. In their natural habitat, the tree canopies under which they grow permit some diffused sunlight through. Plants thrive in moist media (potting soil) and medium to high room humidity. Specialty potting mixes are available at full-service garden centers. Alternatively, mix your own media with sand, sphagnum peat moss, and perlite.

Earth stars grow in bright indirect light and avoid direct sunlight. Water moderately but consistently, allowing the soils to almost dry on top before re-watering. Reduce watering from fall to late winter. Plants relish high humidity in summer, so consider setting plant in a humidified room or on moist pebbles. Propagate by stem or leaf cuttings. Cut back foliage as needed to maintain plant form. Fertilized monthly (March-October) with any house plant branded fertilizer including Miracle-Gro or Schultz at one-half the package rate.

Cryptanthus zonatus – 6 inches high & 12-14 inches wide

Like most bromeliads, Cryptanthus only bloom once during their lifespan. They bear small delicate white flowers near their leaves. Following up, the plant produces pups around the mother plant’s base. They can be removed and potted up in a peat-perlite potting soil. Pups may also form either at the end of stolons or at a leaf axis. Pups should remain attached until they are roughly 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant after which they can be removed and potted. You may have to stake the pup until it develops sufficient roots to hold itself up.

Cryptanthus can survive in a wide range of temps, but they thrive best between 60 and 85°F. They are easy to grow indoors as well as outdoors in many moderate climates. Bring indoors in the fall and winter in temperate climates.

Most Cryptanthus varieties prefer indirect sunlight. In the summer seek shade nearby tall leafy yard trees. Exposure to a few hours of early morning sun often enhances leaf color(s) of earth stars. On the other side, direct sun will likely bleach or sunburned the foliage. If cryptanthus appear stressed, move them to a spot with less direct sunlight. Under inadequate light plant foliage appear drab and not very colorful.

For sale at Garden Center