Outdoor Greenery for Interior Winter Decoration

Posted by Hugh on March 5th, 2012

If you are a new property or home owner, perhaps you’re planning some landscaping this year. Likely, you have several objectives in mind. You might include a few evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees which, in later years, can be cut for holiday wreaths, garlands, swags and indoor ornamentation. Here is a short list to consider:
American holly (Ilex opaca) — yellow-fruited cultivar pictured)
Winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata)
Canadian hemlock (Tsuga canadensis)
Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora)
Annabelle hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’)
Limelight hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’)
Boxwood (Buxus spp.)- select from many great cultivars
Summersweet shrub (Clethra alnifolia)
Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick’, contorted filbert (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’)
Pussy willow (Salix discolor)
There are several other hollies from China and Korea that may substitute. While hydrangea and clethra are not evergreens, the dried spent blooms are very decorative in holiday arrangements. The twisted branches of ‘Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick’ filbert or the furry buds of pussy willow adds any table floral decor over the late fall and winter seasons.
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Awaken Overwintering Tropical Plants

Posted by Hugh on March 5th, 2012

Alocasia and Ensete Banana

If you live in USDA zones 6 and 7, early March is usually the proper time to re-awaken containers of tender tropicals stored in your garage or moved in to join your house plants last fall. Likely, they’ve already begun to sprout.  Specifically, angel trumpets (Brugmansia spp.), elephant ears (Colocasia spp. and Alocasia spp.), cannas (Canna spp.), and non-hardy bananas (Musa ensete), revive the dormant plant now. Replant into new potting soil, prune off old or dead leaves, and begin a regular watering and feeding program.

Purchase a good porous potting soil (media) from a local garden center. Replace most of the growing media in the old pot or shift up into a larger container. Try not to break many roots if they’ve already sprouted. Tender water garden plants such a tropical water lilies (Nymphaea spp.) and tropical lotuses (Nelumbo spp.) are better planted into drain-free pots containing ordinary garden soil. Soil-less media tends to float out the top when the container is submerged into the water pond.

Feed pots with an 8-9 month rated slow release fertilizer. Rate and directions should be listed on the package. Cover the soil (media) surface with 2-3 inches of large pea gravel to prevent any soil leaving the container and contaminating the pond. When all danger of frost has passed, moved plants outdoors.

Angel trumpets and cannas generally do not flower in the winter months. Replant into fresh soil-less media before moving the container(s) outdoors, about the time you transplant tomatoes in the garden.

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The Right Rhododendron for the Right Location

Posted by Hugh on March 2nd, 2012

Rhododendron 'Chinoides'

Rhododendrons (Rhododendron catawbiense) were born in the cool of the North Carolina and Tennessee mountains. Hundreds of  lovely hybrids have been bred by dedicated plantsmen. Winter hardiness is rarely an issue, but rhododendrons are challenged by summer heat and disease problems in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA hardiness zones 6 and 7). 

Your most important decision is pedigree. So many varieties to try, and the “H-1 ironclad”cultivar class is a good starting point. Here are five: rose pink (cv. ‘English Roseum’), lavender pink (cv. ‘Roseum Elegans’), light pink (cv. ‘Janet Blair’), white (cv. ‘Chionoides’) and dark purple lavender (cv. ‘Lee’s Dark Purple’). 

Success with rhododendrons follows three planting rules: sunlight exposure, soil amending, and watering needs. The cultivar must be heat and drought tolerant in summer and pleased with its soil conditions year-round. Direct morning sunlight and mostly afternoon shade are winning combinations year-round. The northeast or southeast corner of a home, garage or large tree serves as an ideal planting site.

The soil must be well-drained, acidic and high in humus. At planting time amend the soil, adding lots of organic matter such as peat moss and compost. Organic amendments tend to lower the soil pH, preferably to 5.5 or lower. After planting fertilize rhododendron(s) bimonthly with an acidic fertilizer such as Miracle Gro™, Miracid™ or an equivalent. Do not feed after mid- August.

Any hint of poor soil drainage generally results in root disease problems like phytophthora and pythium. These fungal pathogens thrive in poorly drained soils. The pesticide treatment costs to attempt to save a pathogen infected rhododendron is high.

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Redbuds With Very Few Messy Seed Pods

Posted by Hugh on February 27th, 2012

Ugly Seed Pods on Redbud (C. canadensis)

A few years back my church pastor complained about the ugly load of seed pods covering the redbud branches (Cercis canadensis) on the property in the fall. My suggestion to avoid messy seed pods is to plant seedless redbud cultivars.

A number of native redbud (C. canadensis) cultivars produce few to no seed pods. Let’s start with the cultivars ‘Ace of Hearts’ and sister seedling ‘Little Woody’ which may set fewer than a dozen per tree per year. ‘Hearts of Gold’ (with chartreuse foliage) often sets low pod numbers one year and produces heavy amounts the next.  ‘Forest Pansy’ (with dark purple foliage) sets a small scattering of pods annually.

‘Merlot’ is a new glossy wine red foliage redbud from the North Carolina State Redbud Breeding program, and it produces few pods. The pods which form after flowering rarely set viable seeds and the pods abort early. ‘Flame’ is a rare double flowering form, most of which are sterile and the tree sets very few pods. 

‘Don Egolf’ Chinese redbud (C. chinensis ‘Don Egolf’) is female sterile and develops no seed pods. 

‘Traveller’ (C. texensis) is a weeping redbud hardy to Zone 6 and its flowers are sterile and podless.  “I have seen only one pod on ‘Traveller’ in 20 years”, says Dr. Dennis Werner, NCSU Ornamental Plant Breeder.

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Start Up A Sleeping Amaryllis

Posted by Hugh on February 20th, 2012

Glorious Potted Amaryllis

Back in the fall, your amaryllis bulb was pushed into dormancy by withholding all watering. In the weeks that followed, the foliage turned yellow and withered. You cleaned off the dried leaves and stored the potted bulb at 34 to 42 °F for the winter, not allowing it to freeze.

After a minimum of eight weeks, preferably longer, has passed, re-start the dormant potted amaryllis by simply adding water. Soak the pot in a trough of warm water for 2-3 hours. For large pots the bathroom tub or kitchen sink will suffice. If several dormant amaryllis bulbs have been stored away, start up one or more weekly to stagger the blooming period. Set the plant in a grow room or a sunny window and water as needed. Rotate the plant every 5-6 days so the emerging amaryllis does not lean (grow) toward the window.

After 6-8 weeks, the flower stalks and some leaves have emerged and stand tall. Usually 3-4 flower buds form on each floral stalk. Several stalks may shoot up, depending on the bulb size and vigor. Fertilize bi-weekly with a water soluble plant food such as Schultz®, Miracle-Gro®, or Daniels® according to package directions (for house plants).

The glorious trumpet shaped flowers bloom for 2-3 weeks and several flower colors are available. After the danger of spring frost has passed in your area, put the plant(s) outdoors on a sunny deck or patio for the summer.

Repeat the dormancy cycle again in the fall when the plant is scheduled to be brought indoors.

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Parrotia: A Great Medium-sized Landscape Tree

Posted by Hugh on February 16th, 2012

Persian ironwood mottled bark

Parrotia (Parrotia persica), aka “Persian ironwood”, is native to Iran, Turkey, and the Caucasus region. Parrotia forms a lovely carefree medium sized lawn or street tree. Tree framework is vase-shaped, initially narrow at the base and flaring out in the canopy as it ages. Mature tree height varies 25-40 feet, depending on location and the seedling or cultivar planted. Rated hardy in USDA  hardiness zone 5, parrotia excels in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7).

Tiny flowers appear in early March and are rarely noticed along its branches. Clusters of ruby red stamens emerge with no petals. In early spring its witchhazel-like foliage starts out reddish-purple and develop into 3-5 inch long leaves. Summer’s lustrous dark green foliage transitions to a blend of yellow, orange and red colors in autumn. Foliage colors are effective for almost a month.

After 12 – 15 years parrotia’s smooth gray bark begins to exfoliate. In subsequent year, a patchwork of green, white, tan and cinnamon unfolds. Prune away lower branches to better catch the striking mosaic bark.

Parrotia is long-lived with no serious insect or disease issues. A two-year established parrotia resists heat, drought, wind, and urban air pollutants. Seasonal leaf colors are more vivid in full to partial (6 hours minimum) sunlight and on a well-drained acidic soil site.

‘Biltmore’ is most popular cultivar which exhibits tall and upright branching. ‘Pendula’ is a spreading weeping mound form only 10-12 feet wide with branch tips which tend to curve upward.

Within the witchhazel family (Hamamelidaceae), besides parrotia and witchhazel (Hamamelis spp.), are such landscape favorites as sweetgum (Liquidambar spp.), fothergilla (Fothergilla spp.) and loropetalum (Loropetalum chinense).

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Re-Potting Indoor Plants

Posted by Hugh on February 13th, 2012
 

Sansevieria (snake plant) rarely needs re-potting

The golden rule for house plant care is to repot them once a year. Times of seasonal change signal the best opportunity for repotting most house plants. September starts a slowdown and March (late February) a re-awakening period for your house plants. Most, but not all plants, should be re-potted in one of these periods.
 
Purchase a good “house plant” mix (soil-less media) from a local garden shop. Brand is unimportant, although a really “cheap” mix under $3.00 a bag  is suspicious from a quality standpoint. The good mix should contain sphagnum peat moss, composted bark, and  perlite (or styrafoam). Some manufacturers add vermiculite for improved moisture retention. Specialty mixes should be purchased  for cacti and for orchids.
 
Re-pot plant(s) into the next larger-sized container (measured as pot diameter). For example, 4 ” plant would be shifted into a 5″ pot or 10″ plant into a 12″ pot. Pot may be clay, ceramic or plastic. It is easiest to maintain all your house plants in one type of pot. You may choose to root and shoot prune to keep the plant in the same container.
 
Partially fill the new pot with potting media. Pry the plant out of the old pot with a knife or thin screwdriver. Gently remove loose soil around the roots and place in a new pot. Slowly work in the new potting soil around to edges. Loosely fill soil to almost the top of pot lip. Watering soil eliminates air pockets and settles the media around roots. Add additional soil as needed.
 
Finally, do not save unused potting soil more than six months. The “wetting agent” additive has lost its activity. Dispose of the soil in a garden bed and purchase a fresh potting mix.
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General Tree/Shrub Fertilizer Recommendations

Posted by Hugh on February 9th, 2012

 

Fertilizer Aisle at Garden Center

Fertilize most landscape shrubs and trees in winter or early spring with a granular 10-10-10 at a rate of 20 lbs. per 1,000 square feet when the ground cover is dry. A 19-19-19 fertilizer is distributed at 10 lbs per 1000 square feet. Distribute within an area 3 feet out from the trunk or shrub crown and 5 feet beyond the end of the branches. Most of us don’t care to haul a 20 or 40 lb bag of fertilizer from one tree to the next. A one pound coffee tin holds about 2 pounds of fertilizer.

Encapsulated slow release fertilizers deliver the nutrients soil temperatures are warm. Each capsule, called a “prill”, is soil moisture and temperature sensitive. The prill meters out a precise amount of the 3 key nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) over a 3, 5 or 9 month time period. In the warmest areas of the U.S., slow-release fertilizers deliver in a shorter time period. Prolonged drought periods also interrupt prill release. Overwatering meters out fertilizer faster and plants often appear nutrient-starved by late summer.

Water soluble fertilizers such as Miracle-Gro™, Miracid™, Jacks®, Peters®, or Hollytone® are great alternatives. These fertilizers are effective for 4-5 weeks and are usually applied bi-monthly from late March thru mid-August on a 6-8 week schedule.

In most areas spring rainfall is adequate to water the fertilizer in and leach it down to the tree/shrub root zone. Otherwise, you should irrigate to carry down whatever product you’ve applied.

Keep in mind that these are general recommendations and some plant exceptions apply.

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‘Quasimodo’ Vernal Witchhazel

Posted by Hugh on February 7th, 2012

#3 Container of 'Quasimodo' Vernal Witchhazel (photo by Alex Neubauer, Belvidere, TN)

Vernal witchhazel (H. vernalis) is a dense growing 8-12 foot native shrub which blooms in mid-winter in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7). It is winter hardy to zone 4.

Small ½ inch wide yellow to red flowers, flushed red at the base, emit a pleasant witchhazel aroma in February. Often, it is the fragrance which has passerbys taking notice of the small strap-like red flowers blooming in the middle of winter.

New leaves start off with a reddish purple tint in early spring. The 2 – 5 inch long by 2 – 3 inch wide leaves are medium green and remain pest free from spring thru autumn. Fall leaf colors transition from green to yellow to gold. Dead leaves often stick on throughout the winter, concealing large percentage of the flowers. The root system possesses a strong suckering habit. The branch wood displays a pale gray color.

‘Quasimodo’ is a compact 3 – 4 foot high shrub, slightly taller than wide. This diminutive cultivar is excellent choice for a small garden. Quasimodo was hybridized and introduced by Pieter Zwijnenburg in the Netherlands.  Its burnt orange flower color stands out better in the mid-winter landscape. Bloom season lasts 3-4 weeks. Quasimodo drops its leaves in the fall so that all flowers are in plain sight.

Vernal witchhazel grows in full sun to moderate shade and requires little extra care. The soil should be adequately drained and mildly acidic.

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Key Points Whether To Grow Peaches

Posted by Hugh on February 6th, 2012

Select The Best Peaches for Your Region

Peaches grow in other places besides Georgia, USA. A decade long period of mild winters in the Southern Appalachian region (USDA zones 6 and 7) have increased gardener confidence about growing peaches. Peaches (Prunus persica) tend to flower in early spring when the threat of spring frosts is still high. In many years spring frost may kill 80% of flower buds, yet still produce a “full” crop in July and August.

Standard (non-dwarf) peach trees grow and are easy to harvest by pruning them to 10-12 feet in height. Dwarf peach trees are unreliable as they live only a short time and are not worth the high purchase price. Dwarf peach root systems are weak and break off from the graft union.

Only freestone peach varieties are listed below. If you garden in zone 7-a or further north, their long winter chilling requirement is not a problem. Freestone peaches are great for eating and ideal for baking and canning; the flesh does not stick to the pits. Clingstone peaches are also a good choice for their sweetness and taste.

Table 1. New peach varieties and approximate harvest times for East Tennessee, Western NC and Southwest VA (zone 6-b):

3rd week July               Contender (yellow flesh, freestone)

4th week July               Nectar (white flesh, freestone)

1st week August          Carolina Gold (yellow flesh, freestone)

2nd week August        China Pearl (white flesh, freestone)

Late August                  Intrepid (yellow flesh, freestone)

 

Table 2. Older reliable varieties for East Tennessee and Southwest Virginia include:

Cresthaven (medium to large fruit, yellow flesh, freestone)

Jefferson (early season, medium yellow-orange flesh, freestone)

Monroe (late harvest, medium yellow flesh, freestone)

Red Haven (medium, nearly fuzzless, yellow flesh, freestone)

Credit: Dr. David Lockwood, Extension Fruit Specialist at the Universities of Tennessee and Georgia recommend these varieties.

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