Winterizing Your Garden

Winterizing Your Garden

Garden Tools and Equipment Maintenance

  • Clean tools and coat with oil to prevent rust. Scrape off all dirt with a wire brush or steel wool. Store all tools off the ground in a dry spot.
  • Sharpen and lubricate all pruning tools.
  • Drain water from hoses and irrigation equipment. Disconnect all hoses and store kink-free in garage or storage building.
  • At final mowing run all gas out of tank and remove spark plug. Clean and oil all moving parts. A drop of oil can protect parts from rusting. Remove blade and sharpen to get ready for next spring.
  • Clean out garden carts, wheelbarrow and wash spreader to remove all fertilizer and pesticides.
  • Store all pesticides in a dry location with temperatures above 40°F.
  • Use up all gasoline, do not store over winter. Never use old gasoline in your equipment.

Vegetable Gardens

  • Remove all vegetative matter that may harbor disease pathogens and insects.
  • Add compost to improve garden soil for next spring.
  • Plough or deep till garden soil in the fall. Soil will warm up faster and excess water will drain-off rapidly, speeding up planting time.

Flower Beds

  • If not interested in winter seasonal interest, remove all seed heads and foliage of most perennials and wildflowers. There are some notable exceptions such as lavender, sage and artemisia. Seed heads of echinacea, rudbeckia, yarrow (achillea) and other perennials are also important food sources for many overwintering bird species.
  • Plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall. Plant fall crocus and colchicum in fall.
  • Fall is a great time to divide and /or plant new perennials. Apply 2” of organic mulch around newly planted perennials to retain soil heat to promote root growth and prevent heaving of plants over winter’s freeze/thaw cycles.
  • After first frost, dig and store tender bulbs and tubers such as gladiolus, tuberous begonias, dahlias, and cannas.
  • Pull up dead or spent annuals and compost. Any diseases plants should be placed in the trash.
  • Remove all weeds in flower beds, particularly winter annuals like henbit, chickweed and annual bluegrass.

Roses

  • Rake up all fallen leaves around rose shrubs and dispose of properly.
  • Cut back roses no more than 25%, removing spent flower heads and weak spindly growth. Major pruning chores are best delayed until late winter.
  • Never fertilize roses from fall thru early winter.

Containers

  • Container grown plants are very frost sensitive. Cuttings may be collected and old plants and potting mix should be composted.
  • Root systems of many hardy perennials, shrubs and trees are not as hardy as the shoots and need additional protection against freeze injury.
  • Store empty stored ceramic and plastic containers in a dry storage building or garage to prevent breakage.

Lawn Care

  • Rake up leaves, woody twigs and branches. Dispose of grass clippings in the compost bin. Large leaves tend pile up and eventually smother the lawn grass.
  • Cut the lawn one final time around Thanksgiving
  • Apply a slow release winter-formulized fertilizer in late October or early November. Feeding gets your lawn off to a good start next spring.

Trees and Shrubs

  • No nitrogen containing fertilizers are applied in the fall, but do apply lime and/or sulfur as a soil test analysis may recommend.
  • Fall is a great time to plant or transplant shrubs and trees. Nurseries still have good inventories in stock and prices are greatly discounted. Container –grown trees may be planted into early winter provided they receive a 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch
  • Add 2 to 3 inches of new mulch around trees, shrubs, and trees.
  • As a rule, pruning is delayed until late February and March. Remove dead and dying limbs anytime of year.
  • Protect sensitive shrubs and trees from winter’s dry winds and potential road salt injury. Constructing a vertical windbreak made from burlap or landscaper fabric. Examples include sensitive needle evergreens, azaleas, camellias and gardenias.
  • To prevent rabbit and rodent feeding, wrap small mesh screening around the trunks of newly-planted apple, pear, peach, plum, apricot and cherry trees.
  • Deer prevention strategies should be employed if applicable.

Water Garden

  • Stop feeding fish and remove all non-hardy plants from pond. An option is to add a heater to prevent or reduce ice buildup over the winter months.
  • Remove pond pump and filter. Remove any excess debris from the pond

Conservation: sow ryegrass or clover in early fall to prevent erosion and improve garden soil (as a cover crop).

Summary: accomplishing most winterizing chores make the labor of starting off the spring garden a lot easier.

Summer Care of Trees and Shrubs

Just because you’re on vacation doesn’t mean your trees and shrubs are. Plants, particularly those planted this year, still depend on some love and care from you.

Watering is crucial during the hot, dry summer months. If Mother Nature doesn’t supply adequate rainfall, you must. Plants should receive at least 1” of water each week, whether natural or applied by you.

During a dry period lasting three or more weeks without rainfall, you may need to supply water to your plants twice a week. New transplants of trees and shrubs are particularly in harm’s way. During a rainy period, no water is needed.

A summer mulch is also a good way to conserve soil moisture, keep weeds down, and cool soil temperatures. All of this is a great way to help your plants make it through the summer.

Hold off fertilizing until mid-winter (February through March). At that time, apply a 10-10-10 or fertilizer for shrubs and trees.

Twice a month watering of evergreen plants into the fall and winter months may be needed if the dry weather continues.

Failure of Shrubs and Trees to Bloom

It is usually quite difficult to determine why a shrub or tree fails to bloom. Most often the problem is the plant’s health, related to weather or environmental factors. Sometimes, the gardener has grown the plant poorly. Here are the seven leading causes:

  1. High much nitrogen? The nitrogen to carbohydrate ratio (C:N) is a common fault. Too much nitrogen fertilizer encourages vegetative growth at the expense of flower production. Withholding nitrogen (particularly lawn fertilizer) application prior to bloom is the remedy. Root pruning around the shrub or tree’s drip line maybe another alternative.
  2. Soil nutrition? A deficiency of phosphorus in the soil will inhibit blooming. To correct, dig a shallow trench around the plant. For each 3 feet of soil removed from the ditch, thoroughly mix a cupful of super-phosphate, or 2 cups of bonemeal, or a cupful of 0-20-20 into the dug soil and return to the soil.
  3. Sun or shade? Shrubs and trees, which prefer a sunny location, fail to bloom in shade. Shade loving plants bloom more heavily in sunny locations, but plant health may decline afterward.
  4. Plant spacing? Competition among nearby tree and shrub roots for moisture and nutrients may discourage blooming. Do not crowd plants.
  5. Planting depth? If trees, shrubs or perennials are planted too deeply, the roots may lack water and oxygen.
  6. Time of pruning? Pruning at the wrong time of the year may deter flower bud initiation or remove flower buds already formed. As a general rule, prune summer flowering trees and shrubs in late winter and spring bloomers within 4 weeks after petals fall.
  7. Root sucker and shoot sprout removal? Vigorous root sucker and sprout growths around the plant base or densely thick on branches reduce flower bud initiation. Prune off sucker and sprout growths anytime that you see them.

Fall Blooming Perennials

Photo: Fall anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’

The end of summer does not mean that other perennials aren’t beginning their blooming season. Three fall flowering perennials- reblooming daylilies, remontant iris, and fall anemones- thrive here in the Southern Appalachian (USDA zones 6 and 7).

Early fall is a great time to again enjoy a lovely bed of re-blooming daylilies (Hemerocallus spp.). ‘Stella D’Oro’ (golden yellow), the most popular variety for the past quarter of the century, was recently dethroned by ‘Happy Returns’ (light yellow). ‘Pardon Me’ (red) is another re-blooming favorite. Inter-planting daffodils, tulips or hyacinths among the daylily clumps extends your floral calendar another month or two.

Remontant iris (Iris spp.) re-bloom a second time from August through November. The trick to re-blooming daylilies and irises is to provide some relief from summer drought stress. Weekly deep watering is certain guarantee of repeat fall bloom.

Fall anemones (Anemone x hybrida) are available in many colorful varieties, starting with an old favorite and garden performer ‘Honorine Jobert’ (2-3 ” single white blooms), ‘Queen Charlotte’ (3″ semi-double pink), ‘September Charm’ (3″ single rose-pink), and ‘Whirlwind’ (4″ semi-double white).

Do not grow fall anemones in direct full day sun. Plants prefer a partial sun to partial shady spot. Caution: plant in spring thru mid-summer to permit adequate time to establish their roots. Anemones perennialize easily when planted in richly composted, well-drained garden soil.

‘Sunshine Daydream’ Helianthus for Mid-Summer Bloom

Sunshine Daydream (Helianthus x multiflorus ‘Sunshine Daydream’) has been blooming non-stop in my Northeast Tennessee garden for the past two months.

This double-flowering yellow false sunflower is a new introduction from North Creek Nurseries, a wholesale nursery in Landenberg, PA. Sunshine Daydream is a branch sport (mutation) of native cultivar ‘Capenoch Star’. It is a mid-summer flowering perennial.

Sturdy 5 – 6 feet tall by 2 – 4 feet wide plants support bouquets of bright yellow double flowers. The dahlia-like blooms measure 2.5 inches across. The spent flowers are seedless and do not threaten to become a weedy problem in years to come.

Sunshine Daydream performs best in full sun, preferably in moist well-drained soil. Keep plants in full vigor with monthly applications of a water-soluble fertilizer such as Miracle -Gro™ or equivalent or feed bi-monthly with 10-10-10 or equivalent.

Sunshine Daydream stands up to summer’s heat and humidity. Established 1- year old plants are moderately drought tolerant. This long-lived perennial is hardy in USDA zones 4 thru 8. The summer foliage of Sunshine Daydream is remarkably resistant to powdery mildew, a fungal disease which plagues some helianthus species.

Potential Epidemic In Your Car Trunk Or Camper?

Photo: walnut twig beetle infestation

Tennessee Department of Agriculture (TDA) officials urge state residents and visitors to the state to help prevent the spread of Thousand Cankers Disease in black walnut (Juglans nigra)trees and Emerald Ash Borer in ash species (Fraxinus spp.). Take the following steps:
 Don’t transport firewood, even within Tennessee. Don’t bring firewood along for camping trips. Buy the wood you need from a local source. Don’t bring wood home with you.

 Don’t buy or move firewood from outside the state. If someone comes to your door selling firewood, ask them about the source, and don’t buy wood from outside the state.

 Watch for signs of walnut twig beetle infestation in your black walnut trees. If you suspect your black walnut tree is infested with TCD, visit www.TN.gov/agriculture/tcd for an online symptoms checklist and report form or call TDA’s Regulatory Services Division at 1-800-628-2631.

Fall Apple and Pear Harvest

Apples and pears are plentiful in home orchards this fall. Several late apples such as Winesap, Rome, Fuji and Granny Smith are harvested this month. Pears do not ripen on the tree, so late varieties should be pulled from the tree when outdoor temperatures under 25 degrees F are predicted.

Apples can be stored for 4-6 months if harvested before they are fully ripe. The ideal apple storage temperatures are 31-33 degrees F with a relative humidity of 90 percent. Stored apples are best packaged in closed plastic bags to retard moisture loss. The home frost-free refrigerator is not an ideal spot to store temperate (non-citrus) fruits because humidity levels are too low.

Compost Yard Wastes into Black Gold

Leaf raking is a major chore this month. I’m still a bit old fashioned and rake by hand. Most modern folks have switched to leaf blowers, but protect those ears with plugs or headphones.

Compost is called “black gold” and is created from garden trash that the intelligent gardener collects, a natural process of enriching the garden soil. October is a major composting time. Much of the debris from the vegetable and flower garden can be thrown into the compost pile. Leaves, grass clippings and green table scraps can be processed into rich humus.

Compost heaps appear in many shapes and sizes. The simplest and most common is a back corner of the yard out of sight, a collection of several years of garden refuse. Homemade reinforced wire bins are common, a large receptacle of garden waste. Home and garden stores sell composters of various sizes including tumblers that will speed decomposition. You can also purchase special packets of microorganisms that hasten the decaying process.

Ijams Nature Center in Knoxville has on display several methods of composting garden refuse. It is not true that varmints such as rats, voles and moles will make their homes in compost piles if proper sanitation measures are followed. Gardeners can turn garden debris into black compost in as little as 6 weeks with adequate moisture, aeration and nutrition; or simply pile up your garden waste and wait 2-3 years for compost.

Mulching- Not Always a Good Practice

A generation of gardeners have extolled the benefits of mulching around trees and flower beds. Sometimes, mulching is not a good practice.

Often, a heavy clay soil retains too much moisture over the winter months. Some dryland perennials, such as cheddar pinks (dianthus), euphorbia, and delospermum, prefer dry to moderately wet winter soils. Amending with coarse sand improves soil drainage, but adding mulch may be counter-productive.

Quality mulch contains very little cellulose (wood) fiber. A wood based mulch attracts structural wood -feeding insects such as termites, carpenter ants, and wood beetles. Wood-based mulches should not be spread around home foundations.

Fresh wood-based mulch grabs up available soil nitrogen. Nitrogen -starved plants appear yellowed (chlorotic). You may need to apply 2-4 times the amount of fertilizer to counteract the wood mulch.

Piling up mulch around the base of trees, called “mulch volcanoes”, will damage tree trunks. Surface roots are deprived of oxygen. Often, weak adventitious roots grow in the mulch. When the mulch dries out, the weak roots die and scar the trunk.

Young fruit trees should not be mulched in the fall and winter where field mice (voles) are suspected. The voles create a home in the mulch and feed on live roots and soft tree bark.

Zones 6 Winter Hardy Encore Azaleas™

‘Autumn Ruby’ Encore azalea in April 2009

Photo credit: Dr. Alan Windham, Extension Plant Pathologist, University of Tennessee

Encore Azaleas™ bloom twice: in the spring and from late summer into the fall season.
Ten varieties consistently exhibited cold hardiness throughout zones 6-a and 6-b: Autumn Amethyst, Autumn Carnation, Autumn Cheer, Autumn Lilac, Autumn Royalty, Autumn Ruby, Autumn Sangria, Autumn Sundance, Autumn Sunset, and Autumn Twist.

In Zone 6-b, nine additional varieties also consistently exhibited exceptional cold hardiness: Autumn Bravo, Autumn Carnival, Autumn Debutante, Autumn Embers , Autumn Empress , Autumn Monarch, Autumn Princess, Autumn Rouge, and Autumn Sweetheart.

For best results in plant zones 6-b and colder, gardeners should plant in the spring or early summer. In Zones 7-9, Encore Azaleas benefit from fall and late summer planting schedules. Their multi-season blooms make them ideal for container gardens.

Encore azaleas™ begin blooming each spring like traditional azaleas. These evergreen azaleas enjoy more sun than traditional azaleas. Encore Azaleas were bred by Robert E. “Buddy” Lee of Independence, Louisiana and are available at many independent garden centers.