Elephant Ears Seasonal Care

C. gigantea ‘Thailand Giant’

Elephant ears (Colocasia) and close botanical cousin (Alocasia) is also called ornamental taro. Plants take off and grow rapidly after spring planting, once all threats of spring freeze injury have passed. In moderate zones 6-7-like climates, elephant ears are special garden tropicals are stunningly beautiful over 7 months before declining for its long winter dormancy.

In smaller city gardens grow the mini-colocasia varieties such as ‘Black Magic (black matte finish), ‘Mojito’ (dark green /dark mottled patches), and ‘Tea Cups’ (cupped leaves that fill and spill water during rains).

Larger varieties that demand larger spaces, choose Colocasia ‘Diamond Head’, ‘Pharoah’s Mask’, ‘Redemption’, and ‘Kona Coffee’ for their striking leaf artistry and Colocasia ‘White Lava’ and ‘Maui Gold’ with cheery chartreuse-gold color hues. C. gigantea ‘Thailand Giant’ is an enormous green plant that boasts thick 2-4-foot-long leaves.

Colocasia ‘Mojito’ at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

Colocasia is a tender perennial that cannot survive winter months outside of zones 7b- 10. Either utilize this tropical plant as an annual or dig up the corm after the first frost in autumn and overwinter it in a cool dry area (submerged in dry wood shavings or peat) where winter temps do not fall below 40°F. The tuber is replanted back into the garden in late April. An easy alternative method is to treat Colocasia as a container plant and move the pot into an unheated garage (@ 40°F) over winter.

Elephant ears grow best in partial shade to partial sun and lots of soil moisture. Full sun exposure, especially in warm areas, may damage plants. They grow rapidly during the warmest days of summer. Feed plants with a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote™ or a water-soluble fertilizer like Miracle-Grow™ or Peters™. Don’t forget to irrigate, but never to the point of flooding. Plants prefer soils that drains well and don’t stay soggy.

Elephant ears, particularly the small forms, can be grown in garden beds and in containers. Sources to buy them include independent garden centers, mail order, nurseries, and rarely at box stores.

In areas with moderate winter climes (zones 6b – 7a), move elephant ears and several other tender tropicals indoors in the fall. Store in a cool spot around 40°F until spring. Repot into a fresh compost-rich potting media, trim back roots, old foliage, and petioles. When the threat of spring frost has passed, move elephant ears back to the garden.

Warning: Avoid eating taro root raw. It may cause mild stomach upset if not cooked before eating.  In contrast, all vegetative parts of Alocasia are highly poisonous. Keep the plant away from children and pets. Yes, taro is a major food crop for both people and farm animals, high in protein. The plant is traditionally served at Hawaiian luaus, and the corms form the basis for poi, a favorite Hawaiian dish.

‘Waikiki’ elephant ears at Cincinnati Zoo

Arborvitae Fern

Fresh Soft Green Fronds In Flower Garden

Arborvitae Fern (Selaginella braunii) is not a true fern, but it produces spores. This ancient plant is called a club moss and spikemoss.  A diverse group of over 700 species, spikemoss is native to China. Its thick lacy fern-like foliage resembles Arborvitae or Cedar. Spikemoss (S. braunii) is a hardy landscape selection that forms a low-growing matting groundcover that shades out competing weeds. (USDA hardiness zones 6-9)

Spikemoss is a wonderful addition to a partial to full shade garden. Set in a well-drained, humus-rich soil. Established plantings demonstrate exceptional summer drought tolerance. While shady moist spots are ideal, this lacy ground cover does not tolerate standing water for long periods.

Selaginella braunii take on bronzy appearance in late autumn (Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC)

This carefree plant also looks great forming a mat around taller plants in containers and hanging baskets.  Spikemoss wants excellent drainage when grown in containers. Clumps can be divided any time of year.

Over several years arborvitae fern will develop a dense ground cover that competes against most other vegetation. Fronds take on a coppery appearance once cool temps arrive in the fall.

Native to variable climates from tropical to dry and from sun to shade. Several perennial species are hardy in Tennessee and North Carolina areas (Zones 6-7). Selaginella plants are great as groundcovers around hosta, Solomon’s Seal, and other bold-foliaged perennials.

February in the garden /arrival of new spring growth greens up landscape

Spikemoss foliage is soft to the touch and low growing…a great groundcover filler for a woodland garden, pathway or shade container. Other species of Selaginellas thrive in terrariums and are fabulous companions to shade loving container plants.

Some Selaginella species are very drought-tolerant while others prefer marshy ground. This drought tolerant species may even turn brown and curl up during a drought but will rehydrate with no problems once rain finally arrives.

‘Jindai’ Japanese Aster

Aster tataricum at N.C. Arboretum in Asheville, NC

Tatarian aster (Crinitaria tataricus) / (Aster tataricus) is an herbaceous perennial wildflower indigenous to eastern Europe, Siberia, and Mongolia (USDA hardiness zones 3-9). Its stiff sturdy stems support showy abundant flower clusters comprised of 1 inch (2.5 cm) across, with deep lavender to blue rays and yellow centers. The flat-topped clusters add late season color in the fall garden. A. tataricus ‘Jindai’ is a slightly dwarfed type found in the Jindai Botanical Garden near Tokyo, Japan.

Plant in full sun and it grows well in a wide variety of well-drained soils. Rich soils may lead to it spreading via a vigorous rhizomatous root system and become too aggressive or weedy. Lower foliage is dense at the bottom, with paddle-shaped leaves up to 2 feet long that get smaller as they grow up the stem.

‘Jindai’ tatarian asters grow tough as nails. Topping out at 6 feet with numerous clusters measuring 3 feet or more across, plants stand up to weather, pests, and diseases. Tatarian asters are a bold choice for a late-season pollinator plant; butterflies, moths, bees, and other pollinators come for the plentiful nectar.

This tall aster is best planted as a long back border or use in a naturalized area.  Stems are thick and sturdy but may require staking if pampered in humus-rich, moist, fertile soils. Warning: Japanese aster is an aggressive plant that spreads aggressively via rhizomes. Their size limits where to plant it in the landscape.  

It tolerates the heat and humidity of southern summers well. Plant wilt, powdery mildew, and botrytis are occasional problems. Plant spacing is important to avoid leaf mildew issues. To repeat, in good fertile soils, this aggressive aster may require staking in partial shade areas. In the spring divide the root ball every 3-4 years or grow from seeds. See below.

‘Jindai’ flower cluster in October

Tartarian aster is not rated invasive, although the plant grows very vigorously. Start out with collected seed is not recommended. Why?… ‘because ‘Jindai’ or any cultivated variety don’t usually produce “true to seed,” and fail to replicate the desirable characteristics of the parent plant. Shoot cuttings may be started in spring; dip in a mild rooting hormone and then place it in potting medium to grow roots. Place cuttings in a plastic tent for added humidity. Digging root divisions are another option.

Tartarian aster is a host plant for the larvae of the black swallowtail butterfly. 

Angel Wings (Senecio)

Senecio candicans ‘Angel Wings’ used as a summer bedding plant

For unique foliage texture or color, look no further than Angel Wings Senecio (Senecio candicans). It is a fast-growing succulent flowering plant of the Asteraceae family that is native to South America (Patagonian region of Chile). Its big furry foliage is white and wavy.

Introduced by Concept Plants, Angel Wings works well in mixed containers or equally well in a mixed perennial border. Utilized usually as warm season annual, it favors warm temperatures between 60° – 80°F. In southern hot zones provide some morning or afternoon shade to avoid scorching its leaves. Senecio is not frost-hardy and should be protected from temperatures below 40°F. If grown in colder climates, consider moving potted plants indoors during winter. (Zones 9a -11).

Its large, soft silvery succulent leaves are soft and fuzzy to the touch. The plant grows up to 16 inches (40 cm) tall. The Angel Wings plant blooms in the summer months with a mostly insignificant small yellow flowers.

Angel Wings plants thrive in full sun, requiring at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. While they can tolerate partial shade, too little sunlight may result in leggy growth and a duller leaf color. If grown indoors as house plants, place them near a bright window with maximum light exposure.

Plants are drought-tolerant and prefer moderate watering. Water deeply when the top inch of soil is dry, ensuring the soil drains well to prevent root rot. During hot weather, occasional deep watering is beneficial, but overwatering should be avoided. Reduce watering frequency in cooler months.

In the garden utilize as a bold accent against green-leaved plants and colorful flowering perennials in sunny, drought tolerant borders, rock gardens, succulent gardens, and containers. Angel Wings tolerate either alkaline or acid soils and it can handle a bit of salt spray around beach areas.

‘Angel Wings’ (Trade show plant)

Fertilize with a balanced, diluted liquid fertilizer such as Miracle Gro™ or Jack’s™ every 4-6 weeks during spring and summer. This will help your plant thrive and maintain a vibrant appearance. 

Where this tender perennial is not hardy outside over winter, grow it indoors as a houseplant in a sunny window. As a summer bedding plant in a sunny area in well-drained soil. Utilize as an accent plant mixed with other summer flowering annuals where the soft velvety foliage may be touched and appreciated.

Angel Wings performs better in a container with good potting media drainage than one grown in garden soil. Protect from excess rainfall and hard frosts. For maximum appearance, pinch off dead or damaged leaves. Periodically, inspect pests like mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. For proper pest management, use insecticidal soap or Neem oil.

American Elm Continues To Be Planted

Ulmus americana 'Princeton'
Ulmus americana ‘Princeton’ – young tree

American elm (Ulmus americana) is a medium to large deciduous tree, typically growing to 60-80 feet tall with a vase-shaped, broad-rounded crown. It is native to eastern and central North America. Once widely planted as a street and lawn tree, its populations have been decimated by Dutch elm disease (DED) over the past century. Numerous pure-bred selections are being produced at nurseries. (List of Cultivars follows).

In landscape circles, American elm is recognized as the perfect shade tree to shade a home or backyard. This native tree has the classic vase-shape branching. Although cultivars may be selected for DED-resistance, they may still be at risk for other elm diseases, such as elm yellows and verticillium wilt. DED-resistance does not mean a cultivar is immune, but specific ones have significantly improved survival rates compared to seedling elms.

Insignificant small green flowers appear in spring before the foliage emerges. Flowers give way to single-seeded wafer-like samaras (each tiny seed is surrounded by a flattened oval-rounded papery wing). Seeds mature in April-May as the leaves reach full size. Rough-textured, ovate-elliptic, dark green leaves (to 6” long) have toothed margins and asymetrical bases. Leaves typically turn an undistinguished yellow in fall.

‘Princeton’ American elm branching framework

There are dozens of named cultivars of Ulmus americana. These are hybrid pure-blood selections.

‘Princeton’ was released by the Princeton Nursery in northern New Jersey in 1922 for its resistance to DED. demonstrates excellent resistance to DED. This variety is susceptible to phloem necrosis and wetwood. It is still planted in urban streets, parks, and on residential properties.

‘New Harmony’ was discovered in Ohio in 1922 and exhibits the old American Elm form and resistance to DED. Upright, vase-shaped tree with an arching form. Dark green leaves turn yellow in fall. Vigorous growing and slightly narrower than Valley Forge.

Valley Forge’, introduced by the U.S. National Arboretum, has the highest known DED resistance to date. Valley Forge’ seems to be more tolerant (96% resistant rate) of Dutch elm disease compared with ‘New Harmony’ (86% resistant rate). ‘Valley Forge’ demonstrates good cold hardness as far north as zone 4a.

‘Jefferson’ is a surviving clone found growing on the National Mall in Washington DC and introduced by the National Park Service. ‘Jefferson’ has excellent resistance to Dutch elm disease. However, the cultivar is susceptible to phloem necrosis, a disease that attacks the food-conducting tissue of the tree and susceptible to a bacterial disease called “Wetwood” that results in slow tree dieback.

Colonial Spirit® is another introduction from Princeton Nursery high DED resistance and has the classic American elm vase shaped branching habit. (65 feet high x 50 feet wide).

FYI — Hybrids of European and Chinese elms are Dutch Elm-resistant are available and grow shorter than American elms.

Something New – El Niño™ Chitalpa

A new large shrub or small tree, called EL Niño Desert Orchid is a very special North American native hybrid. Hardy to USDA hardiness zones 6-9, it is as easy to grow as it is beautiful. El Niño produces large rose pink, orchid-looking blooms that appear in early summer.

Chitalpa El Niño at St. Mary’s Church Grounds in Johnson City, TN (zone 7a)

NCSU’s Dr. Ranney is credited for this new, uniquely compact introduction. In breeding terms, El Niño is an intergeneric hybrid of Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) and Catalpa (Catalpa bignoniodes). Both parents are in the Bignoniaceae family. Desert Willow is well-known for its tolerance to poor soils and the dry heat of the American Southwest. The tree may eventually reach 30 feet in height.

Native catalpas are large 60 foot trees that bloom annually in their native habitat that includes Tennessee and North Carolina and are mildew resistant. Catalpa’s lovely purple orchid blooms appear in early to mid-summer and sporadically through the summer months. Oh, its blooms are delightfully fragrant up close.

In its first year Chitalpa El Niño should grow 5-6 feet tall and spreading to 4-5 feet wide. El Niño forms an upright 10-15 feet mounded shrub or small tree in 10 years. An abundance of rose-pink, orchid-like flowers form on top of the new growth in mid-June. Flowering continues into very early September here in Northeast Tennessee (zone 7a).

Hardy in zones 6-9, El Niño should be grown in full sun to part sun locations (6-hour minimum) and in well-drained soil. At the colder end of its hardiness range, it may die back to the ground in a cold winter and regrow the following spring.

Pre-flowering in Mid-June

El Nino develops into an excellent multi-branched small tree or shrub. Pruning is rarely required, but if desired, pruning should be done in early spring. It can tolerate summer heat and poor soil conditions. Once established, Chitalpa El Niño is drought tolerant. This landscape shrub/tree thrives with a light feeding of slow-release fertilizer or seasonal irrigation if needed.  

No pesticides are needed and Chitalpa El Niño is deer-proof. Landscaping with native plants promotes biodiversity and provides shelter and quality food for wildlife and pollinator.

Chitalpa El Niño should become more available at garden centers that sell Proven Winners (PW) nursery stock.

Summer Planting Combinations At Biltmore

On a recent visit (8/27/25) to the fabulous Biltmore Estates* Walled Garden near the Greenhouse Conservatory were some wonderful colorful plant combinations:

Bottle Gourd (Lagenaria siceraria)
Yellow lantana (base), ‘Fireworks’ Pink Gomphrena, Yellow Cannas
Cupheas (base), Coneflowers, Cannas, Purple foliage Castor beans
‘Campfire’ Coleus (Plectranthus) in foreground and ‘Coffee Cups’ Elephant Ears (Colocasia) in background

*Biltmore Estates in Asheville, North Carolina

Scarlet Rose Mallow

Texas Rose Mallow (H. coccineus)

Swamp hibiscus (Hibiscus coccineus), aka scarlet rose mallow, is a hardy perennial plant that grows in swamps, marches and roadside ditches in the Southeastern U.S. (USDA hardiness zones 5-9). It can grow 6 to 8 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide.  The 5- to 6-inch-long palmate leaves are 3 – 7 lobes and have jagged teeth along their margins. Deep red flowers measure 5 to 6 inches across in mid to late summer. A white bloom form ‘White Texas Star’ is also available.

Scarlet rose mallow is a late spring starters, but their growth rate is voracious. This herbaceous to semi-woody perennial dies back in the winter and returns in late May, generally following the emergence of rose mallow (H. moscheutos). Speed of stem growth is torrid and easily achieves 5-6 feet by late July when first blooms start opening. They can grow to be over 6 feet tall and may need staking, depending on their height and position. Swamp hibiscus bloom continuously, and plentiful blooms last only 1-2 days.

Texas White Star

Swamp hibiscus grows well in loamy well-drained soils with back-up irrigation, but is equally at home in wet boggy sites, such as pond or the edge of a stream. Set them at the back of a perennial border, against a courtyard wall, or in rain and pollinator gardens. The plant attracts butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees. Flowers are a wildlife food source. Unfortunately, deer may consume the colorful flowers.

Swamp hibiscus thrive in hot humid summers. If you garden in a northerly zone, protect plant roots and crown with a 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch (grass clippings, fallen leaves, or yard waste) in late autumn. Swamp hibiscus can easily susceptible to leaf burn if summer rainfall is low. Avoid planting on a windy site.

In spring fertilize with a 6-month slow-release formula like Osmocote™ or Nutricote™. In spring remove the previous year’s tall dead stems. Optionally, cut new spring growth back in early June (4-5 weeks after shoot emergence) to encourage branching and grow a more manageable 3-4 foot plant to summer’s end.

Plants may be damaged by stem canker, rust, leaf spots, aphids, and hibiscus sawfly. Scarlet Rose Mallow usually outgrows most injury by outgrowing these pests and still present an attractive floral show. If plants are grown in partially shade, swamp hibiscus may require staking.

Swamp Hibiscus on edge of pond

Growing Rose Mallow (Hardy Hibiscus)

‘Evening Rose’

Summerific® Hibiscus are all Perennial Hibiscus, primarily tracing their parentage back to Hibiscus moscheutos. This species is native to North America, specifically the central and eastern regions of the U.S. Perennial Hibiscus are hardy from zones 4-9 and dieback to the ground each year. They produce exceptionally large flowers in an increasingly wide color range.

All varieties in the Summerific® Hibiscus collection have indeterminate blooming, meaning Summerific® varieties have top to bottom flower coverage, bloom time starts earlier with significantly more flowers over the season. Flowers are dinner plate size!

Full sun is a must. In too much shade the otherwise sturdy habits stretch and get floppy. Increased shade will also lead to a decrease in flower bud count and diminished bloom performance. Outdoor natural UV light (full sun) brings forth darker foliage colors compared to the same varieties produced in greenhouses. When properly located in full sun, Summerific® Hibiscus keep their tidy habits and bloom profusely.

‘Cherry-Choco-Latte’ -compact 4 ft. tall x 4 ft. wide; very large 8-9” flowers are white with deep pink veining and a notably large eye; dark olive-green foliage. Released in 2023.

Summer Care Tips

Summerific® Hibiscus perform best with weekly irrigation, delivering 1.5 – 2.0 inches starting 1-2 weeks prior to beginning of flowering in mid-July thru mid-September, unless Nature provides some. Also, water plants that have been recently transplanted or are aborting floral buds. Rose mallows are perfect additions to landscape areas that periodically flood and a rain garden.

Once rose mallows emerge in mid-spring, leave them adequate space to grow. Some varieties can grow 5-6 feet wide and grow quickly during the year. If you take a week’s vacation in June, you’re likely to come back to a plant twice the size you left it.

Hibiscus sawfly is the #1 foliar pest of perennial hibiscus, resulting in skeletonized leaves. These can be treated with a beneficial bacteria product like Dipel (BT bacillus). Rose mallows are not the preferred food of deer and rabbits.

‘Midnight Marvel’ – vigorous (4.0 ft. tall x 4.5 ft. wide), dark foliage, long-flower season (9″ blooms);
2012 release.

Hardy Cyclamen

Hardy-leaved cyclamen (C. hederophyllum)

Hardy cyclamens are tuberous perennial that bloom according to species. They are native to Europe, around the Mediterranean region and parts of Asia and Africa. Two popular hardy species in U.S. gardens are spring-blooming Cyclamen coum and fall-flowering ivy-leaf Cyclamen hederifolium. Leaves remain evergreen through much of the winter season. Non-hardy florist cyclamens (C. persicum) are available at florist shoppes in floral shades of whites, pinks, and magentas along with beautiful mint green and silver mottled foliage.

C. coum emerge from summer dormancy in October thru March and reenter dormancy in mid-spring as outdoor temps warm up. Leaves are round- to heart-shaped, with smooth or slightly toothed margins, from plain green through varying degrees of patterning in grey or silver to all over silver, underside purplish. At least a dozen more species are hardy in zones 7-9. C. hederifolium is dormant during the hot dry summers and fridge cold winters. Long-lived cyclamen often provides years of reliable color and interest with their handsome foliage.

Hardy cyclamens prefer part to dappled shade and do not cope with sunny locales. Instead, plants are best at home under the dappled shade of large shrubs or trees. Plants colonize in humus-rich, well-drained soil. They’re actually a good choice for dry shade. and will fail in daily summer irrigation.

Cyclamen coum (winter-spring blooming)

Site selection is very important. Choose a spot in part to full shade, with dappled sunlight okay. Hardy cyclamens grow from small, roundish, flattened tubers, which should be planted shallow (about an inch deep) in late summer into fall. Again, summer dormancy should be dry. Fertilizing cyclamen is unnecessary. Apply fine compost and organic mulches at planting time and annually in late spring to improve soil texture and bed appearance.

After blooming, cyclamen plants self-sow their tiny seeds forming new tubers; tubers also grow in size through the years. Mark the spot where you’ve planted them so not to disturb them when they go dormant each summer. Keep the area weed-free where the cyclamen are planted. Divide tubers during the summer dormancy period. Every 4-5 years, lift each tuber, divide with a clean sharp knife, and replant.

Hardy cyclamens are rarely troubled by disease and insect pests. Squirrels and rodents may dig up tubers and may require DIY wire cages for protection. Keep house pets away from cyclamen.

Hardy cyclamen may be ordering through the summer into early fall from online bulb nurseries which ship in late September and early October. Plants are also available potted up in late winter and early spring from nurseries and gardening shows. They’re rarely sold at garden shoppes.

Cyclamen hederifolium foliage