List Of Messy Trees To Avoid

When purchasing trees and shrubs for their yard, many gardeners should avoid species that drop lots of litter (fruits and/or leaves) all spring and summer long. Landscape trees, among them crabapples, mulberries and Chinese (kousa) dogwoods produce fleshy or pulpy fruits that mess lawns, walkways and stained & sticky parked cars. Many, not all, are non-native and foraging birds and other wildlife are not interested in them for their food supply.

Foul Smelling Odor ginkgo fruits

Some plants are split into male and female, with the male flowers producing pollen and no fruits. Over the years these species are begun to dominate our yards and gardens. Ginkgo is one such example. Male ginkgoes produce no fruits because nursery producers sell grafted fruitless male clones. Ginkgoes produce foul smelling apricot looking fruits. When the ripened fruits fall on sidewalks, the area around them reeks with a terrible smell.

Crabapples (Malus spp.) hail from Eastern Europe and Asia. Small, fruited forms, 5/8ths inches or less in diameter, are consumed in late fall and winter by many bird species when natural food sources are sparse. Particularly avoid planting large-fruited cultivars.

Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa) is a lovely small flowering tree from China where the orangey-red fruits are consumed by monkeys. Most North American birds don’t eat them.

Hackberry or sugarberry (Celtis spp.) drops loads of tiny black berries to litter lawns and walkways.

Fleshy fruits of kousa dogwood in late summer

Mulberries (Morus spp.) produce soft pulpy fruits that stain sidewalks.

Buckeyes (Aesculus spp.), Walnuts (Juglans spp.), most oaks (Quercus spp.) are nut-producing trees and shrubs.

Ginkgo / maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba) – female trees produce messy and odorous apricot-like fruits that will also slicken walkways, making them impassable. Many large towns and cities have banned the selling and planting of female ginkgo trees.

Norway spruce (Picea abies) and White Pine (Pinus strobus) bear large cones that are litter problems on lawns and gardens.

Large cones of Norway Spruce

Sycamores (plane trees) (Platanus spp.) and Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua) are the “Gumball Trees” that are a nuisance to foot traffic. Mowers with catch the dry gumball fruits and discharge them through a mower to break windows or dent metal siding.

Want More? How about pecan, northern Catalpa, pecan, cottonwood, hackberry, Kentucky coffeetree (female), silver maple, weeping willow, Southern magnolia, China Fir. These tree species drop loads of leaves, twigs, pollen, and fruits in your yard and driveway at any time.

Sycamore “balls”

Stachyurus – Early Spring Delight

Late March blooming Stachyurus praecox in Duke Gardens deciduous woodlands

Stachyurus (Stachyurus praecox) is a deciduous woodland shrub that makes an eye-catching statement from early to mid-spring when daffodils are in bloom. Flowers appear before the leaves emerge. (USDA 6-8). Floral buds form in autumn and overwinter on the shrub in pendant, catkin-like racemes that hang from the leaf axils. This distinctive chains of yellow flowers are truly stunning. Each 4-inch-long flowering raceme has 10-20 tiny, bell-shaped, 4-petaled, yellow-green flowers that measure 3/8 inches across.

A native of Japan, stachyurus is sometimes called “catkin” and “spiketail”, referring to its dangling flowers. Shrub grows 4 -10 feet tall with an open, upright, arching-spreading habit. During the growing season, attractive red-brown branches are clothed (somewhat sparsely) with ovate, tapered, serrate, medium green leaves (to 7” long). Foliage may turn rosy-red and yellow in fall.

Stachyurus is best grown in humus-rich, acidic, moist, well-drained soil and in morning sun to full-day dappled shade. Flowers bloom in late March-April when the threat of cold injury is ever present. Site selection is most important to shelter from cold, drying winter winds. Otherwise, flower buds may be injured by frost.

The nectar-filled flowers attract early foraging bees and make great cut flowers. Foliage may turn rosy red and yellow in fall. Generally rated as low maintenance, it requires little pruning or care. No serious disease or insect problems trouble stachyurus. The shrub flowers on old wood, so pruning should be done in early spring immediately after flowering. Remove flowering shoots to the base on mature plants. Deer resistance is questionable?

‘Carolina Parakeet’ Stachyurus spring foliage

Stachyurus is a plant collector’s gem and only sold at on-line specialty nurseries.

Cultivars / Varieties:

  • S. praecox ‘Carolina Parakeet’ – subtle, light green variegation in the center of leaves; incredible dripping 4” strings of oft-yellow blossoms and vibrant, rose blushed new leaves. Floral petioles hold its bright and vibrant red all season long.
  • S. praecox ‘Issai’ has racemes up to 12″ long and may have as many as 3 or 4 racemes at each node. 
  • S. praecox var. matsuzakii is a vase-shaped deciduous shrub reaching a mature height of 15 feet in height; sports pendulous yellow flowers and fall color is yellow to golden.
  • ‘Sterling Silver’ produces long yellow racemes of flowers, which “drip” from arching branches.
  • S. chinensis ‘Joy Forever’ – opens spring with bright variegated yellow serrated foliage that emerges from new pink-red stems. Each floral chains dangle is longer than those of S. praecox. Flowers open about 2 weeks later than those of S. praecox; less vulnerable to spring frost; grows 8-10 feet wide and 5-6 feet tall in a mound form.

Winter-Blooming Japanese Apricot

Japanese apricot (Prunus mume), aka Chinese plum, is a beautiful reminder that perhaps the worst of winter may now be behind us. On days barely above freezing, their cheery fragrant blossoms open, although rarely in great numbers. Cold nights may damage any open blossoms, but new buds will emerge in the next warmup. This small flowering tree is cold hardy (USDA hardiness zones 6-9).

‘Peggy Clark’ Japanese Flowering Apricot

A member of the Rosaceae or rose family, Japanese apricot is native to China and has an important tree in Chinese and Japanese culture over 1500 years. The tree does not prosper in hot or dry locations. Plant in a moist, well-drained soil, mulch as needed, and prune to maintain an open branched habit. Although not indigenous to Japan, it is grown extensively there and boasts up to 300 cultivars with white, pink, or red color shades in single, semi-double or double blossoms.

Japanese apricot forms a rounded to oval crown and grows usually 15 – 20 feet tall and equally as wide. From January through February, the tree displays beautiful, delicate, and fragrant pale pink flowers on bare branches and brightens up the long winter days. Plant in a full sun area of the garden, near decks and patios where you can visually enjoy the winter bloom from inside your warm home.

Green ovate shaped leaves emerge with a spring season warm up. Yellowish-green, fuzzy-skinned fruits appear and can be harvested during the summer. Unfortunately, fruit taste is sour to bitter.

Prunus mume prefers full sun to partial shade, moist, acidic, loamy soils. An ideal site is one that offers protection from winter cold that will injure the flowers. Japanese flowering apricot blooms occur on the previous year’s wood. Spring pruning after flowering is the best time. 

Their showy blossoms will brighten up a winter landscape when very few other trees are in bloom. Its cultivars include white, pink, rose, and red flowering in single and double forms. It is similar in habit and appearance to some of the smaller flowering cherries that bloom one to two months later in spring.

‘Bridal Veil’ (weeping form) at JC Raulston Arboretum in Raleigh, NC

Unfortunately, its availability at most U.S. garden centers is not plentiful. Instead, shop online at a specialty nursery. Five personal favorites include: ‘Peggy Clarke’ – double deep rose flowers; ‘Bridal Veil’ – pale pink flowers; ‘Kobai’ – red, semi-double flowers; ‘Josephine’ – light pink flowers; ‘W.B. Clarke’, a weeping selection, 10 -20 feet tall and wide, double pink flowers. Some white-flowering forms are also available.  

To enhance seasonal interest plant as a landscape specimen adjacent to a walkway, patio, or deck. Again, I emphasize that Japanese flowering apricot should be sited in a sunny protected location. Flowers emit a slight fragrance. Fruits are very tart to eat raw but can be processed into delicious jams and jellies.

Although a litany of several diseases and insect pests are listed for this tree, it tends to avoid most pest maladies that include aphids, scales, borers, spider mites, and tent caterpillars; diseases may include bacterial canker, and fruit brown rot. Fruit drop may become messy on lawn and paved areas. Leaves, stems, and seeds are toxic to dogs, cats, or horses if ingested.

Reddish bark of Prunus mume (ETSU Campus Arboretum in Johnson City, TN)

“Witchhazel” Winter Time

‘Diane’ (H. x intermedia) witchhazel at Winterthur Gardens in Delaware

Add flowering and fragrance to your winter garden. Witchhazels (Hamamelis spp.) are prized for their strap-shape petalled flowers which bloom mid- to late winter. Depending on species and cultivar, blooming begins in late January and many possess fragrant blooms. Witchhazels are medium to large deciduous shrubs, typically 12-20 feet tall. Foliage texture is somewhat coarse. (USDA hardiness zones 5-8).

‘Primavera’ witchhazel at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

Branching tends to be upright, vase-shaped, with a spreading habit. Bright green 5–6-inch circular leaves appear weeks later in spring. An orangey-yellow to yellow fall color may vary from one year to the next. The first four winter-flowering witchhazel belong in the Chinese hybrid witchhazel (H. x intermedia) group:

1. ‘Jelene’– clusters of bright coppery orange flowers.

2. ‘Diane’ – sweetly fragrant coppery-red flowers.

3. ‘Primavera’ – bright yellow, spider-like flowers with narrow 3/8 to 5/8-inch-long petals.

4. ‘Arnold Promise’ – clusters of bright yellow strap-like flowers (to 1” long).

5. ‘Wisley Supreme’ (H. mollis) fragrant golden-yellow flowers.

‘Arnold Promise’ witchhazel at ETSU Arboretum in Johnson City, TN

Witchhazels make highly dependable shrubs that grow in average, medium moisture, well-drained, moderately acidic pH soils and in full- to 1/2-day sun. Flower numbers are greatest in full sun. Expect leaf scorch over prolonged summer dry periods. Shrubs have some tolerance for clay soils as long as drainage is good. Most witchhazel varieties are currently produced from cuttings. If grafted, promptly remove root suckers emerging from below the graft union. Prune in spring after flowering to manage shape and size.

Watch for Japanese beetles, gall aphids, scales, leafrollers. Also scout for powdery mildew and leaf spotting over the summer months. Disease and insect issues get rarely serious enough to warrant the use of pesticides. Witchhazels are also deer resistant, although occasional browsing is possible in locations with high populations.

In summary, witchhazels should be planted more for their superior winter flowering. Utilize them in the landscape as single specimens, shrub borders, for privacy screening, or tall hedges. Shrubs are mostly available for sale from on-line specialty nurseries.

FYI — Witchhazel collection at the Scott Arboretum at Swarthmore College in Pennsylvania numbers 58 cultivars.

Bloodroot In The Spring Garden

Colony Of Bloodroot in the early spring garden

Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) is a member of the poppy family Papaveraceae. This botanical family includes about 825 species, including bleeding hearts (Dicentra spp. and Lamprocapnos spectabilis), Corydalis, and opium poppy (Papaver). Bloodroot is native to the eastern half of North America continent from Canada south to Florida.

Bloodroot typically rises 6-10 inches tall and spreads over time to form large colonies on a deciduous woodland floor. Each flower stalk emerges in very early spring wrapped by one palmate, deeply scalloped, grayish-green, basal leaf. As the flower blooms, the leaf also unfurls. Each flower stalk produces a solitary, 2″ wide, 8-10 petaled, 1.5″ diameter, white flower with numerous yellow center stamens. Flowers open up in the morning sun and close at night. Individual flower life is short, usually only 1-2 days.

Leaves continue to grow in size and remain attractive until early to mid-summer when the plants go dormant. Over time, rhizomes branch out to form large colonies. Cutting leaves, stems, and roots exposes the bloody-looking sap that flows through every part of the plant.

Bloodroot is hardy in (USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8) and thrives in partial to full shade in early spring gardens. Grow bloodroot in a protected spot – even a mild breeze can knock the petals off the flowers. The ideal soil for bloodroot must be well-drained and fertile humus-rich soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Flowers are pollinated by insects such as early native bees, honeybees, and flies. Additionally, the stamens will self-pollinate the stigmas if weather is rainy and too cold, or if pollinating insects are unavailable.

Morning floral beauty of Bloodroot in early spring garden

After successful pollination, seed capsules form, each pod packing 20 to 30 reddish black seeds that are dispersed in mid- to late spring. Attached to each seed is a fatty, protein-rich structure called an “elaiosome”. Ants are attracted to its sweetness and move bloodroot seeds back into their nests. Ants munch on the sweet elaiosomes and, later dispose of seeds, essentially sowing them in “ant dumps” that they have evacuated. Seeds germinate the following spring, and plants may start blooming within 2 years.

Propagation of bloodroot is from seed, by root division, or via transplanting. When handling any part of this plant, wear gloves and wash your hands afterwards. Collect seed from populations on your property or by permission from the landowner. Stay off national park lands.

Along with pigmented sap, bloodroot contains sanguinarine: an anti-inflammatory and antiseptic alkaloid. Historically, bloodroot has been used in dye-making, medicine, and dental hygiene. Native American tribes utilized the plant to dye fabric, baskets, and their skin. Medicinally, bloodroot has been used to treat the following maladies: rheumatism, fever, pain, wounds, skin infections, insomnia, ringworm, ulcers, and coughs. Keep bloodroot plants away from pets and livestock.

Cultivar Selection– Select the standard species or a double-petaled cultivar. Bloodroot won the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit in 1993.

Don’t Plant These Trees In Your Landscape

Weeping Willow (Salix babylonica)

Invite landscape trees to your property that will be long-lived, seasonally beautiful, and low maintenance. Gardeners are looking for all kinds of plants that invite pollinators and songbirds to their property. We also wish to avoid critter proof and invasive plants. Below is a list of notoriously bad tree choices in most urban yards and streets.

What is a bad tree? Does not fit size-wise on the property, exceptionally weedy, disease and pest prone, drops lots of leaf and branch litter multiple times annually, susceptible to storm damage/ limb breakage, classified as invasive in your state , and high maintenance.

Mimosa tree seed mass
  • Silver Maple (Acer saccharinum) (native) is a large tree that is weak wooded and susceptible to limb breakage; native maples like sugar and red maples rated as better choices.
  • Cottonwood (Populus deltoides) is a large, fast-growing tree native to eastern and Midwestern U.S.; grow to enormous sizes, branches are weak-wooded and susceptible to storm or wind damage; roots penetrate home foundations and sewer/septic lines.
  • Weeping Willow (Salix spp.) is not recommended due to littering, limb breakage, and disease and insect problems. Its invasive roots can also damage the water or sewage lines. 
  • Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) produces a deadly substance called “juglone” in its leaves, stems and roots which inhibits plant growth beneath the tree’s dripline; juglone sensitive plants include azaleas, peonies, and some garden fruits and vegetables, such as tomatoes, apples, and blueberries; also susceptible to numerous diseases and pests.
  • Ash (Fraxinus spp.) (native) are susceptible to Emerald Ash Borer (EAB); susceptible native species to EAB, include Green Ash (F. pennsylvanica), White Ash (F. americana), and Blue Ash (F. quadrangulata). So far, no cure has been found.
  • Quaking Aspen (Populus tremuloides) is a Midwest native tree that spreads via root-suckering that spreads to become very weedy.
  • Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana), aka Bradford pear, is a pyramidal branched mid-sized spring flowering tree; branches break apart during storms or strong winds; rated as an invasive species.
  • Siberian Elm (Ulmus pumila) is a non-native fast-growing 50-70 feet tall tree that is weak-wooded and messy; susceptible to several insects including leaf beetles; prolific weedy seed producer; borderline invasive in parts of U.S. 
  • Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) is a non-native highly invasive fast growing large tree; host plant for the invasive spotted lanternfly.
  • Lombardy Poplar (Populus nigra) is non-native, fast-growing, short-lived tree with a distinctively narrow form; female trees are messy, distributing huge amounts of cottony seed requiring some clean-ups; leaves and twigs fall in any season; shallow roots produce invasive suckers that invade other areas of the landscape.  
  • Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) is a U.S. native that self-seeds and spreads aggressively via root suckers. 
  • White Mulberry (Morus alba) (non-native) produces edible fruits are relished by birds that drop seeds that stain concrete walkways, patios, and cars; also tree rated as weedy.
  • Red mulberry (Morus rubra) (native) produces messy fruits that stain pavements, automobiles, decks, and patios; seed drop becomes a weedy mess.
  • Mimosa tree (Albizia julibrissin) (non-native) develops weak branching prone to breakage. This weedy tree produces lots of seeds. Foliage is also susceptible to webworms.
Populus tremuloides on a Colorado landscape

Stunning Midwinter Fire Dogwood

‘Midwinter Fire’ dogwood in mid-autumn at Biltmore Estates in Asheville, NC

‘Midwinter Fire Bloodtwig dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) is a multi-season deciduous shrub that is native to Europe and western Asia. It is an upright, round-topped, spreading, twiggy, multi-stemmed, deciduous shrub that typically matures to 8-15 feet tall and as wide. It is native to northern Europe and northwestern Asia (USDA hardiness zones 4-8).

‘Midwinter Fire’ is for its colorful stems and twigs in winter. It grows to 5 feet tall and 6 feet wide over 8 years. The outstanding ornamental features of this cultivar include: (1) coral winter stems which are tipped with red twigs and (2) greenish yellow fall foliage color. Broadly elliptic to ovate, medium green leaves (to 3″ long). Creamy-white flowers appear in flat-topped clusters (cymes) in late spring followed by clusters of dark purple drupe fruits in late summer. While the fruits are not showy, numerous fruit feeding birds and other wildlife drop by. In my opinion autumnal leaf color is a subpar greenish-yellow in most years.

Hillside Planting in February

Midwinter Fire dogwood is very easy to establish in moist well-drained soil of average fertility and in full sun to part shade. It tolerates wet periods but not standing water. Appreciates some shade or filtered sun during the afternoon in hot and humid regions of the U.S. Very low maintenance when left alone along with no serious insect or disease problems.

Although pruning is not necessary, many folks opt to remove about 25 percent of the oldest stems in late winter or early spring of each year to encourage growth of new stems which will display the brightest red color the next winter season. Alternatively, every 2 to 3 years all stems can be cut back to 8 inches above the ground for total renewal.

Beginning of Fall Leaf Color in mid-October in zone 7

Availability at full-time garden centers is usually plentiful. Midwinter Fire dogwood is also available through online nurseries from late winter through late summer.

Very Different Hart’s Tongue Fern

Hart’s Tongue Fern (Asplenium scolopendrium) is an evergreen fern with a tropical look. This glossy green native fern with elegant, smooth, unserrated edged fronds that are 8 -16 inches in length. Hart’s Tongue is native to Europe, North Africa, the Middle East, and Central Asia. Disjunct North American populations are found in parts of Ontario Canada, New York, Michigan, Tennessee, and Alabama. and has been listed “U.S. federally threatened” since 1993.

Hart’s Tongue Fern Hart’s fern makes an unusually beautiful plant. Its natural habitat is in moderate shaded, moist, lush deciduous woodlands. You’ll find its roots embedded in moist soil within small cracks in large rocks or rock fissures (USDA hardiness zones 5-9). It thrives in a humus-rich, well-drained soil. Raised spore sacs form on underside of fronds in late spring.

Planted in a garden/landscape environment, lush green hart’s tongue fern grows slowly, yet requires little attention apart from annual mulching and tidying in spring. It tolerates both light to heavy soils but does not handle waterlogged soil and declines from root rot. Be certain the soil does not become waterlogged or surface compacted.

While a majority of ferns prefer growing in slightly acidic soil, Hart’s Tongue prefers an alkaline to slightly acidic soil; optimum pH range is 6.8 – 8.5. In containers use a potting mixture with a high humus level that retains moisture, is well aerated, and drains adequately good drainage. It prefers growing in chalky limestone soils- principally high levels comprised of calcium carbonate. Add small handful of dolomitic limestone (DL) to the planting hole or 1-2 tablespoons of DL to ferns growing in containers.

Hart’s Tongue Fern on a garden patio setting; plant spends the colder months indoors as a house plant

Hart’s Tongue Fern has been awarded the prestigious Award of Garden Merit (AGM) from The Royal Horticultural Society.

New Redbuds From Dr. Dennis Werner

Despite his retirement from NC State University, Dr. Werner, the redbud breeder of varieties like ‘Flamethrower’ and ‘Ruby Falls’, has introduced two more new varieties. Both cultivars are the beginning of the new compact redbud series. The two newest redbud releases from NCSU are ‘Pom Poms’ and ‘Amethyst’ are two new compact redbud trees. (Zone 5-9). They are ideal for smaller gardens and patios.

‘Amethyst’ redbud (photo supplied by Dennis Werner)

Amethyst Redbud (‘NC2017-6’ PP #35,279) is a stunning ornamental tree that has vibrant purple flowers in early spring and compact tree size. Leaves are purple, smaller, and heart-shaped. It is a cross of Ruby Falls x Ace of Hearts F2. It reaches 8 to 10 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide. deep green color in summer, turning yellow in fall. This seasonal change in leaf color adds to its ornamental appeal.

Its small size and its burgundy foliage provide the feel of a Japanese maple with the added bonus of an early spring bloom of violet-pink flowers before the colorful leaves emerge. Amethyst redbud is being marketed by Monrovia Nursery and Star Roses under the Garden Gems™ logo.

White Pom Poms™ Redbud is a cross between ‘Dwarf White’ (white single flowers), and ‘Flame’ (double purple flowers). This tree was then backcrossed with ‘Royal White’ (single white flowers) that results in a tree with uniformly double, white flowers. Flowering typically lasts 7 to 10 days after the usual flowering time of redbud. Leaves remain attractive throughout the growing season and show very limited leaf spot or necrosis.

Cercis ‘White Pom Poms’ (Dr. Dennis Werner photo)

‘White Pom Poms’ blooms in early spring with white double flowers before the heart-shaped green leaves emerge. The tree may reach 12 feet in height in 10 years and is a great companion to other redbuds. Flowers are white, fully double, with up to 25 petals per flower (5 petals is typical for redbud). Flower production is heavy. Flowers are female sterile, hence no fruits (no seed pods).

Redbuds will grow in full sun to part shade, are pH tolerant and do well in average moist well-draining soils. Redbuds generally don’t transplant well — so choose your site carefully. Both cultivars are a perfect focal point for small gardens or when potted on a patio.

Deciduous leaves remain attractive throughout the growing season and show very little leaf spot or necrosis, often problematic for redbuds in N.C.

Both redbud cultivars are great for small yards as a specimen, accent or understory trees.  

Cercis ‘Pom Poms’ floral closeup) (NCSU photo)

Early Risers In The New Year Garden

Lenten Rose (Helleborus)

Some flowering bulbs, corms, and tubers are early-bloomers. With the start of calendar year January 2026, several days in the 50’s and 60’s have been forecasted. In our garden, flowers of three perennials are beginning to poke through the soil. That’s besides the early daffodils which are always early-risers but hold off blooming until late February and March. Below, these three are now emerging and December snow and winter air temperatures so far have not deterred them.

Lenten Roses (Helleborus spp. and hybrids), particularly those called “Christmas rose”, are evergreen perennials that begin flowering in late December here in zones 6b and 7. Their colorful flowers peak out through their also new foliage. In more northerly climes, Christmas roses may wait until mid-February, the traditional start of the Lenten period. Flowers appear very rose-like, some with double or bi-colored petals (USDA hardiness zones 4-9). Hellebores grow best in partial to full shade areas, and grow up to 24 inches tall and wide. For a showier floral display, clip off the old basal foliage back between Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Galanthus (snowdrops) naturalized

Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are early-rising bulbs often emerge while snow is blanketing the ground to provide a breath of fresh air for winter-weary gardeners. It’s not unusual to see snowdrops erupt through the frozen ground. During mild winters, snowdrops may flower in mid-January, although February or March is the more common period. Left undisturbed, these tiny bulbs multiply (naturalize). (Zones: 3-9). In early autumn, plant bulbs in full sun to partial shade beneath deciduous trees. Space bulbs 6-8 inches apart. Depending on variety, snowdrops grow 6 -12 inches tall and 4 – 6 inches wide.

Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis)

Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) is one of the earliest flowering tubers to bloom in USDA hardiness zones: 3-7, often appearing alongside snowdrops below. In early autumn, plant winter aconite 2 to 3 inches deep and about 3 inches apart. Winter aconite warms up the late winter landscape with 3 to 4 inches tall cheery yellow buttercup-like flowers. Bulbs freely multiply and naturalize freely by seed and bulb division. Grow in full sun to part shade with expected flowering time in February to March.